I got a Lumix FZ-10, had it stolen, and replaced it with another one. Very good camera. IIRC, the FZ-20 is basically the same, except for tweaks to the firmware and the addition of a focus assist light, which the FZ-10 really did need as its low light focusing was slow and sometimes a little bit off. Make sure you use IS mode 2--it kicks the stabilizer on when you take the picture instead of keeping it on all the time. It provides greater stabilization at the moment of capture, which is what you probably want. Mode 1 has IS active all of the time, supposedly to make framing easier--it doesn't help that much and it drains the battery. Same for continuous AF--marginal advantage, big battery hit. I don't have a filter on mine, as the threading is kind of goofy compared to what I'm used to using on SLR lenses. I prefer to keep the cap and hood on, which is protection enough in most situations. Make sure you get high speed SD cards--if you shoot in burst mode the high speed cards speed up the image write time so that you aren't stuck with a locked-up camera waiting for the images to write. Also, when you find spare batteries in stock, BUY THEM. Panasonic batteries are very hard to find. Buy any case you want--the FZ-10 is damn close to an SLR in size, so you might want to look at SLR cases. The video mode on the FZ-series Panny cameras is great--decent quality, and a 30 fps frame rate so it looks very smooth when viewed back. The one issue I have with the FZ-10 is getting exposures dead-on, and I think the FZ-20 may be the same. It's a bit biased towards overexposure. Since the dynamic range of most digicams is pretty narrow, kind of like slide film, you may find that highlights get blown out. And on the tiny little screens, you don't usually notice the problem until you are looking at the final images on a full sized monitor. So when shooting outside, I often use -2/3 or -1 exposure compensation as a matter of habit, maybe more if there are bright and shaded areas within the frame.