I'm going to see Chan on Monday. WIll get a standard conservative navy 2-button, besom pocket business suit. My question: I am a pretty regular sized guy: 42R, 5' 10" - 11" about 178-180 lbs. Not skinny, but certainly not a muscle head either. I was wondering whether I should go for a lower gorge or a higher gorge? On another topic, I'm thinking maybe single pleat trousers as a nice compromise from the more fashion forward flat front and a double pleat. I want this suit to be a horse for a long time in my stable, so I am eschewing flat front trousers.
High gorge with a low button stance is a very English style...I have several Chester Barrie (RLPL) items that have high gorges with lower button stance and are definitely quite flattering on the right person, plus they counter the common occurrence of high gorge / high button stance that is prevailing in Italian suits these days...of course they are 3-button sports coats, so perhaps a 2-button model might not look quite right. Overall, I think to be on the safe side, as this is a business suit a higher button stance will be your best bet. Regarding the trousers, well, if you can pull off single pleats, I say go for it, they will be slimmer than double-pleated, but still have an air of business about them that is not normally conservatively acceptable with flat front trousers. Jon.