Anyone have pics of EGs new Redwood color?

Understood. I find a little restraint helps to heighten the satisfaction of those purchases one does make.

Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley

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Thanks - I had no idea bengal placed such an order. Let's hope he posts pics.
I did indeed order a pair of shoes in "˜Redwood', but as I placed the order only last week, pictures won't be forthcoming in the very near future.

Recalling the sample, I would call it more "˜wood' then "˜red'. Think of a very worm brown, like milk chocolate or milky coffee with a touch of red. Maybe as dark as EG's "˜burnt pine', but much, much warmer.

As Will said, there are significant variations in the finished product, even within a given colour. For the time being, I sit back and relax.

Originally Posted by bengal-stripe

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I did indeed order a pair of shoes in "˜Redwood', but as I placed the order only last week, pictures won't be forthcoming in the very near future.
As promised a picture of the "˜new' Redwood colour ; Style 'Twickenham II', last 88 C.
(The shoes came through in ten weeks, which must be some kind of record):





I just realized, "˜Redwood' isn't that new in the EG program. It was used many years ago
(although the "˜old Redwood' looks a bit sharper on the red side).

^^^ Very nice colour. Those 3-pc trees are awesome - where are they from?

Originally Posted by bengal-stripe

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As promised a picture of the "˜new' Redwood colour ; Style 'Twickenham II', last 88 C.
Bengal,

Very nice shoes. Not quite double leather soles, but slightly thicker going forward from the waist?

MtB

Gorgeous color, the leather looks like aniline but I don't think that's the case. The 3-piece tree looks like it's from Vass, isn't it?

Beautiful shoes and color. Vass trees right?

Originally Posted by Looking to improve

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Not quite double leather soles, but slightly thicker going forward from the waist?

MtB

EGs HAF sole.

Originally Posted by von Rothbart

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The 3-piece tree looks like it's from Vass, isn't it?

Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley

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Vass trees right?

Right, the both of you: The shoe trees are indeed Vass (U-last, size 41) while the actual shoes are 9 C (English), which the equivalent of a continental 43 ½.

The trees fit quite nicely, which demonstrates the Vass U-last is not particular narrow (at least not in the width around the ball of the foot), but extra-long.

But every Austro-Hungarian shoemaker uses the same shoe trees, they obviously all come from the same source (Kalman Berta?).
The top Austrian firms (Materna, Scheer) use more elaborate hardware (nice brass rings), but the basic tree is identical.

Originally Posted by von Rothbart

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Gorgeous color, the leather looks like aniline but I don't think that's the case.

The leather is called "˜Redwood Antique', so it must be crust and not aniline, but I did ask for very little antiquing.

Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley

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EGs HAF sole.

Indeed, EG's HAF sole (which I've seen elsewhere referred to as "˜spade soles"˜).
At the moment I'm rather fond of this sole.

I thought a spade sole was not a HAF sole, but a sole with sharply corned sole extensions just in front of the waist.

Originally Posted by grimslade

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I thought a spade sole was not a HAF sole, but a sole with sharply corned sole extensions just in front of the waist.

In Japan they do call the HAF sole a ‘spade sole’
http://centipede.web.fc2.com/CATALOG...ION/Index.html

and yes, you’re right, the sole for the J & M Handmades, with it’s
exaggerated corner was also called a ‘spade sole’.

What happened to “calling a spade a spade” (without ambiguity)?

Originally Posted by bengal-stripe

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they obviously all come from the same source: Kalman Berta

The top Austrian firms (Materna, Scheer, Maftei, Balint

) use more elaborate hardware (nice brass rings), but the basic tree is identical.

Yep and Yep

Btw, every serious shoe guy should be able to recognize Vass trees

Originally Posted by bengal-stripe

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Right, the both of you: The shoe trees are indeed Vass (U-last, size 41) while the actual shoes are 9 C (English), which the equivalent of a continental 43 ½.
Interesting, Bengal-stripe. I take a 9 B/C in EG, and I've always thought of them as more like 43 Euro. In fact, with mine they fit more like a 42.5. The RLPL EGs are marked 9/9.5, which supposedly indicates the UK size first followed by the US size. If the US size is to be believed (and my RLPL Grants would seem to confirm this), the RLPL 9/9.5 does equate to approximately a 42.5. With Vass, I'm a perfect 42.5, and with JLobb, I'm an 8.5 UK. With all that, the EG 9 fits me well. From all of this I've concluded that the EG 9 is a "small" 9.

Originally Posted by bengal-stripe

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The leather is called "˜Redwood Antique', so it must be crust and not aniline, but I did ask for very little antiquing.
This color (as it appears in your picture above) is virtually identical to the Rosewood Country Calf on my Dovers. I don't know whether EG has had a smooth-finished Rosewood offering, but the Rosewood Country Calf (pebbled) finish has been around for a long time. Could Redwood be EG's name for the Rosewood color applied to smooth calfskin?

Originally Posted by bengal-stripe;1100980 with additions by fritzl

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they obviously all come from the same source: Kalman Berta

The top Austrian firms (Materna, Scheer, Maftei, Balint) use more elaborate hardware (nice brass rings), but the basic tree is identical.

Not quite, neither Maftei nor Balint use 3-piece shoe trees (at least not routinely, maybe at special request. They use the spring-loaded type with one big round knob (probably from Berta as well). Vass uses this type for most of his shoes (apart from the U-last) as does Koronya (I did check his site).



Maftei shoe tree

Scheer and Materna offer the 3-piece ones, elaborately embellished with brass hardware and ropes or chains to hold all three pieces together. The trees get turned as a whole foot, then sawn into the three pieces, but somewhat crudely, only the original piece will fit. (I had to mark all the Vass trees with numbers, otherwise you sit there for hours trying to find the fitting piece). Picture of the process: Vass book, page 177)



Scheer shoe tree.

My Kudweis trees are also fully-lasted 3-piece, but less decorated (well, they came for free). Kudweis asked for nicer wood (might be oak) than Vass.



Materna charges over EUR 100 for three piece trees. At Vass (I bought an additional six pairs), I paid something like EUR 20 per pair.

The 3-piece trees are fully lasted, I presume the spring-loaded ones are not, so they're bought-in in bulk. And maybe get sanded down a bit if they turn out too big.

Originally Posted by Roger

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I take a 9 B/C in EG, and I've always thought of them as more like 43 Euro. In fact, with mine they fit more like a 42.5. The RLPL EGs are marked 9/9.5, which supposedly indicates the UK size first followed by the US size. If the US size is to be believed (and my RLPL Grants would seem to confirm this), the RLPL 9/9.5 does equate to approximately a 42.5. With Vass, I'm a perfect 42.5, and with JLobb, I'm an 8.5 UK. With all that, the EG 9 fits me well. From all of this I've concluded that the EG 9 is a "small" 9.

The problem with shoe sizes, they do not measure the foot length, but the entire length of the last (stick length).
This is made up from the foot length as well as the allowance (empty space in front of the toe.
How much allowance a particular last needs is a matter of discussion as well as design related. (Pointed shoes need more space).

According to the rules a size 9 (English) shoe has a length of
Size 1 = 8 2/3" (220 mm), every additional size 1/3" (8.46 mm)
Size 9 = 8 2/3" + 8 x 1/3" - 2 2/3" = total 11 1/3" (287 mm)

A continental "˜stitch' measures 6.66 mm and begins at zero.
Size 43 has a length of 43 x 6.66 mm = 286 mm

9 or 43 should fit a foot that is about 10 ½" (265 - 270 mm) long.


Those are the rules but different designs use different allowances. C&J 248 or Vass U- last have an additional length
of about ½" (12 mm) to give that long elongated look. As far as I can measure inside the shoe, I would say
EG 202 and Church's 73 in size 9 are pretty close to the correct length. All 'fashionable lasts are "˜too long"˜.