Thoughts on this Potential Bespoke Commission

Eustace Tilley · Mar 29, 2008

I'm thinking of trying out a somewhat odd design for a casual winter coat (weekend wear with jeans) and plan on using Hemrajani for the trial version.

The idea is to get something similar to whoopee's shirtjacket below, but with some changes:

1. I'll lenghthen the coat by 2"
2. Add epaulettes
3. Turnback cuffs
3. No padding whatsover, and I'll ask the tailors to use the lightest canvas possible
4. The coat will be half-lined

I have a nice dark grey lightweight flannel (10-11oz.) stored up which I'll provide to Hemrajani. Any thoughts?

Tomasso · Mar 29, 2008

Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley

Any thoughts?
Why not go whole hog and add an action back, belt and suede elbow patches.......

Shirtmaven · Mar 29, 2008

sounds like you want a jacket.
I made whoppee a shirt out of very soft cashmere.

your design sounds a bit Busy!

Carl

speedster.8 · Mar 29, 2008

Originally Posted by Shirtmaven

sounds like you want a jacket. I made whoppee a shirt out of very soft cashmere. your design sounds a bit Busy! Carl
+1 on all counts, I think a safari jacket ...

itsstillmatt · Mar 29, 2008

I'm not sure you could really improve on Carl's design. I suppose you could lengthen it a touch, and I prefer a slightly larger collar on my safari jacket, but I wouldn't go to anything more extreme. Mine only has pleats on the lower pockets, and the wrist closure has a slightly different detail, but it is basically the same as Whoopee's.

I think a jacket version looks too much like you are from the 1970s.

LabelKing · Mar 29, 2008

I'm not sure I quite approve of a shirt-jacket. Perhaps what you're looking for is a safari jacket.

Eustace Tilley · Mar 29, 2008

I guess it is kind of like a safari jacket, but to elaborate I intend mine to be much looser, and meant to be worn over a heavy sweater. My concern, like Carl's, is the design I have proposed is a touch busy.

Matt - would you happen to have any pics of your jacket?

antirabbit · Mar 29, 2008

I approve....damn.
I like it at it is, I also like the length a great deal.

itsstillmatt · Mar 29, 2008

Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley

I guess it is kind of like a safari jacket, but to elaborate I intend mine to be much looser, and meant to be worn over a heavy sweater. My concern, like Carl's, is the design I have proposed is a touch busy.

Matt - would you happen to have any pics of your jacket?
I'll take some the next time I wear it, or the next time I have jeans on. Today, I am a little bit too casual to do it justice as I am doing some **** around the house. Maybe tomorrow.

Will · Mar 29, 2008

Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley

I'm thinking of trying out a somewhat odd design for a casual winter coat (weekend wear with jeans) and plan on using Hemrajani for the trial version.

The idea is to get something similar to whoopee's shirtjacket below, but with some changes:

1. I'll lenghthen the coat by 2"
2. Add epaulettes
3. Turnback cuffs
3. No padding whatsover, and I'll ask the tailors to use the lightest canvas possible
4. The coat will be half-lined

I have a nice dark grey lightweight flannel (10-11oz.) stored up which I'll provide to Hemrajani. Any thoughts?

I am happy with Hemrajani's shirts but their tailored clothing, even simple things like trousers, leaves a lot to be desired in my experience. So I'll be interested in this project as I was thinking about having a couple linen shirt jackets made this year.

If HT doesn't work, Chan has the opposite problem. Better tailored clothing but the shirts are not as good.

Eustace Tilley · Mar 29, 2008

Originally Posted by iammatt

I'll take some the next time I wear it, or the next time I have jeans on. Today, I am a little bit too casual to do it justice as I am doing some **** around the house. Maybe tomorrow.

Thanks Matt - I appreciate it.

Will: I will keep you updated.

yachtie · Mar 30, 2008

Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley

I'm thinking of trying out a somewhat odd design for a casual winter coat (weekend wear with jeans) and plan on using Hemrajani for the trial version.

The idea is to get something similar to whoopee's shirtjacket below, but with some changes:

1. I'll lenghthen the coat by 2"
sounds okay but you'll want a vent then.

2. Add epaulettes

No way

3. Turnback cuffs

sounding busier and busier- barrel cuffs would go better IMO

3. No padding whatsover, and I'll ask the tailors to use the lightest canvas possible

This sounds good- mebbe a little padding to even the shoulders etc.

4. The coat will be half-lined

If it's a flannel you should do a full lining else it'll stick on your sweater- and it'll help it keep its shape

I have a nice dark grey lightweight flannel (10-11oz.) stored up which I'll provide to Hemrajani. Any thoughts?

The cloth sounds nice- is it a solid?

bcate3 · Mar 30, 2008

Originally Posted by Will

If HT doesn't work, Chan has the opposite problem. Better tailored clothing but the shirts are not as good.

I had the same view until I received a few shirts from Chan Shanghai. Those seem to be better made than the ones from HK.

Tomasso · Mar 30, 2008

Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley

Will: I will keep you updated.
Seriously, do you really think Will gives a flying....

TheFoo · Mar 30, 2008

Eustace, have you considered just doing this RTW? I bought a similar jacket from Marinella last year. It has many of the features you're looking for and was much cheaper than bespoke. The style is trendy right now; I'm sure you could find a high-quality version.

That being said, I like the idea of epaulettes. I have them on mine.

Thoughts on this Potential Bespoke Commission

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Definitely full canvas only

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Really don't care

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