Thanks, all. I posted about these about a year and a half ago when I first got them. Around the time when I placed this order there were a bunch of slightly similar shoes being posted on the LL. I have always liked the Weston Hunt Derby, but I needed to go bespoke for a shoe like that for fit reasons, and decided to give some thought to what appealed to me about that design and what variants I might like better. I asked Jcusey if he would do a sort of comprehensive study of the different chasse designs, e.g., the Weston Hunt Derby, the EG Dover and the bespoke variants people had had made. He did a great job and I am sure the article is still available on the LL site. In the end, based on what I saw in that article and this model from the old Lobb catalog and discussions with Jan-Erik, this final design is what we settled on. The old Lobb design is here
Brown Grain Calf is used for this shoe, which is excellent for either golf or country wear. The Norwegian is a waterproof as a leather shoe can be and this is due to certain essential and unique features. There are only two vertical seams in the uppers; one of these appears at the toe, under which a stout "toe box" made of hard leather gives great protection, and the other, slightly curved, can be seen on the inside of the heel. The shoe has been photographed on the inside to show this latter seam, which is purposely not placed symmetrically at the back, where the greatest strain occurs, but at the inside where it is much stronger and less noticeable; the stitches of both these seams are made from within through half the thickness of the leather only and are therefore invisible. The sole, too, is fixed to the uppers differently from any other type of shoe. Instead of using a welt, the upper is turned outwards and stitched to the sole and this operation necessitates an extra row of stitches just above the sole, which can be seen in the photograph. The characteristic Norwegian pattern, i.e., the crescent-shaped piece of leather on the front, is today commonly used for ordinary walking shoes but the features described above, essential to the true Norwegian, are seldom to be found in any but the best quality hand-made shoes.