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Is it possible to convert a single vented suit into a double vented suit?

post #1 of 19
3/23/08 at 1:26pm
Thread Starter 
I saw this great suit I wanted to buy - fit was perfect - fabric was amazing - but I have my heart set on a double vented suit. The suit only had a single vent.

Is it possible to convert this jacket to double vents, or is there not enough fabric to do this job?
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post #2 of 19
3/23/08 at 1:30pm
unless you had a perfect match fabric and the tailor replaced the entire back piece, you would have a seam in the middle where the fabric is cut for the single seam. so, no
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post #3 of 19
3/23/08 at 2:08pm
The answer 'breakfasteatre' has given is correct, but maybe a bit difficult to understand. Let me try:

Any vent has an extension in the cut, so that the two layers overlap and do not gape open like a torn seam (or the split in a Suzy Wong skirt). The decision whether to cut a single or double vent (or no vent at all) is taken in the design and pattern making stage. The single vent has the extension on either side at the bottom of the centre seam, double vents have the extension on both side seams.

Once the fabric is cut, you cannot stick on what is not there anymore.
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post #4 of 19
3/23/08 at 2:10pm
This may be the single most often asked question on Style Forum. Maybe we should sticky the answer. I'm not kidding.
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post #5 of 19
3/23/08 at 2:15pm
I was under the impression that the problem is not closing an existing vent, but creating a new one. Back in high school, I had the double vents on a Canali jacket closed up--you can't tell they were ever there. Creating a vent is an issue because typically there isn't enough extra cloth (the flap must be finished and overlap the underlying surface of the suit).
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post #6 of 19
3/23/08 at 2:16pm
^^^ Exactly. Closing a vent is easy, and won't be noticeable at all. Creating a vent where one did not exist is impossible.
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post #7 of 19
3/23/08 at 2:32pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post
^^^ Exactly. Closing a vent is easy, and won't be noticeable at all. Creating a vent where one did not exist is impossible.

Unless you have to take in the coat quite a bit anyway. In that case, the excess material from the alteration could be enough to make a vent.
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post #8 of 19
3/23/08 at 2:41pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesT View Post
Unless you have to take in the coat quite a bit anyway. In that case, the excess material from the alteration could be enough to make a vent.

I don't think so. A vent underlap is not the same thing as inlay. It's an extra couple of inches of excess cloth that extends for the length of the vent.

The underlap is part of either the frontpart of the coat or the sidebody (depending on how it was made). On a ventless coat, the rear edge of that piece will be cut more or less straight down. On a vented coat, it will be straight from the scyce down, but where the vent starts, it will zig horizantally by an couple of inches, and then go back down.

I realize this probably does not make sense to anyone, and I will look for a picture.
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post #9 of 19
3/23/08 at 3:09pm
OK, this shows what I mean:



This is a center vent, but the same principle applies to all vents. See that extra cloth that starts about halfway down on each side? That's for the vent. One part is the underlap, the other part gets folded over from the topside. The excess is not there on a non-vented coat.

Yes, I suppose that a coat with tons of inlay might be able to have vent added, but it would have to be taken apart and re-cut, to look like the above.
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post #10 of 19
3/23/08 at 3:10pm
^^^ Where do you get drawings like that? I can only assume you don't sit around all day and doodle.
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post #11 of 19
3/23/08 at 3:14pm
I can't draw worth a damn. BTW, did you draw all the pictures on your latest blog post yourself? They are very, very good.

Anyway, that was scanned from a book.
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post #12 of 19
3/23/08 at 3:17pm
The new vent is impossible.

Well, nothing is impossible. If it were to be done, it won't look right. Let's just put it that way. If it were to be done, the tailor would have to cut a new piece of fabric to connect to the front portion of the jacket to extend the front flap so it lays underneath the back flap; there simply isn't enough fabric from the front piece to do this. As for the back flap, there may be enough additional fabric that was originally sewn down to the front that he can simply tuck it back and sew it down.

So the front would have an extra seam that would not look entirely right. But if you're more concerned about shape, then I say go for it. If it is a darker type of fabric, it won't be too noticeable. There is so much folding and darkness in that region that an extra seam won't be too noticeable.

I say, go for it!!!! And post pictures. It will make a good thread for future people wishing to do the same thing.
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post #13 of 19
3/23/08 at 3:21pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post
I can't draw worth a damn. BTW, did you draw all the pictures on your latest blog post yourself? They are very, very good.

Anyway, that was scanned from a book.

The drawings from that aborted entry on shirt-set sleeves in jackets were done by me in Photoshop. Actually, I relied on your own diagrams on the matter as guidance.
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post #14 of 19
3/23/08 at 3:39pm
I once wanted to do something like this, having only owned ventless suits. Then I just decided, with the newfound knowledge gained from sites like this to buy new suits. Now I have better suits with a greater variety. I say use it as an excuse to buy new suits but in your case keep shopping around. Maybe the maker made a side vented version, too.
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post #15 of 19
3/23/08 at 5:09pm
It is impossible to give an answer without seeing the coat.
If it is a readymade coat probably not.
Freddy Vandecasteele
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