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Still confused (re: fused versus unfused)

post #1 of 7
Thread Starter 
Something has been picking at me.  After scouring several websites (including this one), I understand a typical way to determine if the suit is fused is to check the chest area at a point between the shell and inner lining above the pockets (either rubbing, pulling or what have you). It seems to work great.  Going through my own suit selection and doing window shopping, I've tested the various brands and confirmed for myself what has been stated on this site, i.e., Canali, Armani Black Label, Zegna (regular) are canvas, Armani Collezioni, Z Zegna (Soft), and some other brands like Kenneth Cole, Tommy Hilfiger are fused. However, I have one black label Hugo Boss suit I bought four years ago.  The label says made in the USA.  Based on the standard "feel" test, the chest appears canvased.  I can pull the shell from the lining, move them in independant directions and feel a distinct middle layer which ends at the upper end of the chest pockets. Is it possible this particular Boss suit is canvas front?  Or maybe the glue has disentegrated (although I don't see any bubbling).  Below the chest pockets, I don't feel a middle layer, but the area feels thinner overall as if there's no middle layer at all.  Can anybody shed some insight on this? Is this an example of a semi-fused suit? Thanks in advance for any information.
post #2 of 7
It's probable that it is half canvassed (the upper part of the jacket is canvassed while the remaining half is fused). Ensure that you don't pinch the area where the pocket is though. All regular Hugo Boss suits that' I've seen are fused, btw.
post #3 of 7
Thread Starter 
Quote:
It's probable that it is half canvassed (the upper part of the jacket is canvassed while the remaining half is fused). Ensure that you don't pinch the area where the pocket is though. All regular Hugo Boss suits that' I've seen are fused, btw.
I'm so crossed up now. I thought I was pretty sure I could identify a canvased suit by feel (got my hands on Canali, Armani Black Label, Vestimenta, Oxxford, Cantarelli, Zegna (regular)), but as I go through my collection of older, cheaper stuff again (including a junky navy blazer from Men's Wearhouse), I feel a distinct layer between the outer fabric and the inner lining (pinching the chest above the pockets). I can feel my way down and it feels like the layer ends at the inner chest pockets. I don't know enough to doubt the knowledge from the gentlemen here, so as such I'm doubting my own ability to discern the difference. I thought I had it, too.
post #4 of 7
Quote:
I don't know enough to doubt the knowledge from the gentlemen here, so as such I'm doubting my own ability to discern the difference.  I thought I had it, too.
Trust me, we all feel your pain.  For the record, I have never come across a non-baldessarini boss that was canvas constructed.  However, the models made in the USA which are typically found in Neiman Marcus stores are probably the best fused suits you will come by in my opinion.  That being said, you are probably doing everything right.  When I started trying to go through the process that you are currently doing, I thought I had it down and did a blind feel test.  I got everyone right except for an Attolini which I was sure was fused.  As Homer would say D'oh...
post #5 of 7
Lots of fused suits have that middle layer. That's not the issue. The issue is whether the fabric feels thicker at the chest than it does at say, the sleeve. Sometimes the fuseable is very thin but you can still tell the difference. Just roll the chest fabric through your thumb and forefinger, then do the same thing to the sleeve to compare.
post #6 of 7
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Lots of fused suits have that middle layer. That's not the issue. The issue is whether the fabric feels thicker at the chest than it does at say, the sleeve. Sometimes the fuseable is very thin but you can still tell the difference. Just roll the chest fabric through your thumb and forefinger, then do the same thing to the sleeve to compare.
The light just went on. Thank you very much. Yes, using that test, the results are consistent with what I've been reading. So that begs the question: what is that middle layer in a fused suit? I assume it's the floating canvas in a non-fused suit.
post #7 of 7
Your assumption is correct. In fused suits, the layer does not move independently. In floating-canvas suits, the layer moves independently, or "floats," thus the name.
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