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It was bespoken -- for someone else!

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 
Dear Forum: Sorry for the romance-novel headline, but here goes: It's ebay again, specifically: Kilgour, French & Stanbury bespoke jacket The photo model is 5'11", 175 pounds, a 40 R with a 34" waist, or so he reports. I meanwhile am between 5'8" and 5'9", about 160 pounds, with a 40 inch chest and a 34 waist. I believe the chest can be taken in a bit and the sleeves shortened from the shoulder, but is the jacket just too darn long?  If the jacket can be shortened, how much can I do without throwing off the balance of the jacket? One further complication is that under a general 40s/50s influeince, I often wear high-waisted trousers. I believe jackets of this period were slightly longer than the standard today.  The contemporary jacket I'm wearing below with period trousers has a length, top to bottom, of 33". So, in your collective and individual estimations, and taking into account my stylistic idiosyncrasy, can I make the KFS fit? Thanking you from the heart of Brookyn, mack11211
post #2 of 10
In other words...it Was Be-spoken for... Where is quill when you need him... JJF
post #3 of 10
Thread Starter 
Okay, it was bespoken for -- by someone else. I guess that's what I meant to write. Where is the wite-out on this thing?
post #4 of 10
I'm sure others will correct me, but I'm almost certain that you can get a bespoke suit to fit someone else. In one sense, a RTW suit is bespoke for someone else, right? So even if the original owner had certain pecularities (say a shoulder lower than another), it wouldn't be too much different from someone who had the pecularity buying RTW. In your case, the major problems are the coat length and sleeve length. In other posts, posters have said you can shorten a coat by about an inch before it throws off the balance. I don't think shortening by an inch is enough for you. The next issue is the sleeves. Because the working button holes are already there, the sleeves would have to be shortened at the shoulder. You might have a good tailor, but I don't know one that I'd trust to do that. And it sounds expensive. For $100, I think you could do a bit better. My two cents.
post #5 of 10
Wow, nice jacket. I think he shouldn't have the top button done up. Anyway, I personally think it is too long for you because even if you shorten the hem the waist will still be too low and may bunch on your hips. If it were more sacklike I wouldn't worry about that so much, but as it is, it definitely has a waist. If you wore high waisted trousers with it, it would look even stranger, IMO.
post #6 of 10
That is one long coat you're wearing. The good news is that the pockets on the KFS jacket you want are set awfully high, as is the waist button.  You could shorten that coat by 1/2" without much harm.  Maybe 3/4".  I am guessing, of course, not being able to measure it myself.  I'm not sure that will be short enough, but you say you like your coats long, so ... The bad news: Shortening sleeves from the sleevehead of a handsewn shoulder is not as easy as it sounds.  You really need a bespoke tailor to do it right.  Lucky for you you live in New York. The other bad news: that coat looks too big in the body on the dude who's wearing it, and he's bigger than you.  If it's just a matter of the waist and blades, then that's easily fixed.  If it's too big in the shoulders, you'll have a problem The really bad news: it's clearly an orphaned suit coat.  If it were blue, you could change the buttons and wear it as a blazer. But it's grey.  That would look odd.  I'm not sure what you'd be able to do with this coat. Interesting that is has a center vent.  Must have been made for an American.
post #7 of 10
Okay, it was bespoken for -- by someone else. I guess that's what I meant to write. Where is the wite-out on this thing?
Just good natured playing not even with you but playing on the words. ANd learn the hard way like the rest of us that there is No edit on the Topics... I dont know if it can be done but there is a decent tailor in the bay ridge area if you are interested. Careful though, Went over a crater on 6th Avenue and 71st on Friday and blew out TWO tires. JJF
post #8 of 10
Thread Starter 
Thanks to all. I will not bid on the jacket. Response to varied parties: Thanks for the tailor in Bay Ridge, but Brooklyn being what it is, in Williamsburg I am closer to, say, Wilfred on 23rd than I am to many other parts of the borough. My green coat is...long, I guess, but I am making it look longer by wearing the sweater short. So the pant leg looks longer, and the jacket as well. Perhaps I could lose an inch on the jacket? And did men in the 1940s wear their jackets longer, or is this just a convenient fantasy I've created? Lastly, as it happens, last week I picked up *another* KFS jacket (it was only $12), made for a different bespeaker, which may or may not have similar issues re: body size and proportion. At least this one is an actual sport jacket. Pix to come in a new thread.
post #9 of 10
I think your jacket looks great in that picture. What kind of shoes are those?
post #10 of 10
Thread Starter 
Thanks for asking. The boots are the Madison by Stacy Adams. A dress boot in an antique style. About $110 retail, or $20-45 new on ebay. On a fairly recent page of the member pictures, I posted the same picture with a complete rundown of everything I can be seen wearing in the picture, in case you are curious about the other stuff.
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