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Recent WWChan visit in NYC - Page 2

post #16 of 34
I have used Chan for more than 15 years, my wife for about 7 years. I had to stop ordering shirts, consistently snug, no real options for the collar interlining. I wonder if others have had this experience. For suiting, jackets, I consider them the best. I see them Friday in Washington. Does anyone know what became of Raymond? Perhaps freelancing in Shanghai? I suggest being open minded about fabrics besides Loro Piana. There are better cloths, not necessarily available to Hong Kong merchants. Therefore I frequently supply my own cloths (see other postings on this subject).
post #17 of 34
I think the LP Super 120s are on sale, which is why people are going with them.
post #18 of 34
Quote:
I have used Chan for more than  15 years, my wife for about 7 years. I had to stop ordering shirts, consistently snug, no real options for the collar interlining. I wonder if others have had this experience.
This is rather dissappointing to read. I hope I will find their shirts at least superior to RTW at a similar price point (avergae $100 per shirt). I too tried to ask for a softer interlining for the collar but was told they only used one type, which Patrick described as 'medium-stiff'. I wore a H&K with a rather soft interlining so I could show him what I was looking for, but to no avail.
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Heh, now that you mention it, I was wearing a pair of cognac Grensons courtesy of Bennies.
I thought those may have been Grensons from Bennies... i was shod in black C&J handgrades. Gotta dress up when you visit you tailor...
post #19 of 34
All those who've visited with Chan in the last few days - what did you think of the staff's own suits? I would imagine they are full bespoke WW Chans, no? (otherwise, what's the point of working there...) But for some reason, and I can't really put my finger on it, they looked to me like what a good RTW suit should be, but they were missing that true bespoke character. In short, the fit was good, better than 90% of what you see out there, but not spectacular. Admittedly, I am not much of an expert, but where I work (Park Ave., NYC), you run across a few fellers a day wearing bespoke, and once you look for it, its pretty easy to detect, especially when it comes to shoulder treatment. What did you think?
post #20 of 34
re: Chan shirts---Raymond Kiang (departed) explained to me that they do not have the more expensive Swiss interlining for collars---simply a matter of cost. David's and other more expensive HK shirt makers do have it but the cost of their shirts begins to approach London's. The workmanship is excellent on the Chan shirts, but they blame US machine laundery for the shrinkage---funny my London shirts are not snug, with the same laundery. I have spent a small fortune with Chan and I still think they are superb, and they are willing to work with my cloth ("Customers Own Material")
post #21 of 34
Quote:
This is rather dissappointing to read. I hope I will find their shirts at least superior to RTW at a similar price point (avergae $100 per shirt). I too tried to ask for a softer interlining for the collar but was told they only used one type, which Patrick described as 'medium-stiff'. I wore a H&K with a rather soft interlining so I could show him what I was looking for, but to no avail.
They do indeed use a medium-stiff fused interlining. It isn't bad, probably as better than retail-priced RTW at that price point. But it isn't the greatest interlining you will find. I have Ascot Chang shirts with both rigid and soft interlinings, and both of those look and feel better than the stuff WW Chan uses. Considering that the Ascot Chang shirts cost 2x as much, I don't have a problem with the relative value of the WW Chan shirts.
post #22 of 34
I was there on Tuesday; it was my first Chan visit. And I'm glad to find this thread, because I was intending on starting my own about it. I was disappointed. I had recently had a fitting (also my first) with Hemrajani, which I thought went extremely well--thus when I got here to SF, and saw some of the negative reports on Hemrajani's work, I was distressed. I went to that fitting, and to the Chan fitting, wearing a Savile Row suit which I fundamentally like, but which had some problems. The Hemrajani fitting was great. Without my saying anything, he immediately pointed out the problems with the suit I was wearing, and they were spot on. When I said things, he clearly appreciated everything I said; he understood what I was asking for; and when he did have suggestions or comments, they were respectful and tentative. His own suit was not to my taste, but it did have style. At Chan, I felt that no matter what I said, Patrick was not understanding the kind of suit I wanted (which was, fundamentally, a Savile Row suit). For example, my suit was three button, but with the lapels rolled to the second button. I wanted it with the same button distance, but rolled to the top button. Patrick several times told me that I should have the lapels rolled even higher--"that's what's stylish now, you should do that". Likewise, I like to show an appropriate amount of shirtsleeve, and had to insist repeatedly that he was measuring the jacket sleeves too long. I am concerned about what the suit is going to look like. I am not, like some people on this list, able to take a pencil and sketch the pattern my shirt yoke should be cut in, but I think I'm reasonably able to describe what I want. It should not have been as difficult as it was to get across the idea, "I want a Savile Row-styled suit," especially because I was already wearing one.
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All those who've visited with Chan in the last few days - what did you think of the staff's own suits?
I did not like the suit Patrick was wearing. The lapels, in particular, were excessively high and small. The lapel buttonhole was far too small, even given his stature. Oh fabric: from Hemrajani (the suit hasn't arrived yet--from Chan I asked to have a second fitting, which annoyingly will delay things by five months, and I really do need to get more suits and am not looking forward to waiting that long to make any additional decision), I got a LP super 120s in navy with a blue windowpane. From Chan, I got a--actually, I didn't know the name of the mill, it was some initials--super 130s with a touch of cashmere, in a charcoal glen plaid with a blue overpane.
post #23 of 34
I was in on Tuesday midafternoon. My first experience with Chan, which I decided on based in part on what I've read on Styleforum and in part on a recommendation from an uncle, who has been a customer for twenty-plus years. I was both impressed at the speed with which Patrick took me through the process, and a bit dismayed because of the speed. (A gentleman arrived while I was being measured, and I think Patrick may have wanted to attend to him quickly.) Nevertheless, I enjoyed the experience, and I look forward to taking delivery of my suit in January. For the record, I chose a 130s navy herringbone, 3 button, 2 vent with a burgundy lining. Decided against a ticket pocket in the ascending elevator after walking through a lobby full of too-trendy young professionals. I'm still unemployed, so this should work overtime as an interview suit.
post #24 of 34
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Dah328 - I also saw 2 ladies and another gentelman being measured for a tux while being there - perhaps we ovelapped.
My fitting was at 8:30 in the morning but I had to stop by Patrick's suite around 12:15 again because I forgot my gloves when I left earlier. dan
post #25 of 34
Quote:
The Hemrajani fitting was great. Without my saying anything, he immediately pointed out the problems with the suit I was wearing, and they were spot on. When I said things, he clearly appreciated everything I said; he understood what I was asking for; and when he did have suggestions or comments, they were respectful and tentative. His own suit was not to my taste, but it did have style.
Interesting comparison re: your Hemrajani vs. Chan fitting. How do Joe's prices compare to Chan? Does he also offer a fabric special on his tour as Chan does? V-
post #26 of 34
I cannot recommend Hemrajani highly enough.  Chan's delivery times keep getting longer and longer.  
post #27 of 34
Thread Starter 
I think Patrick was a bit nervous this being this first time out and about. I don't know if that is correct but it is my assumption. I think most of the people attending WWChan's overseas tours have only known Raymond. In terms of comparing the two, I think Patrick maybe more fashion forward and not as obliged as Raymond to stay within timeless standards. I believe Patrick is actually also the cutter, so in the long run, dealing with him in a sense means cutting out the middleman. I think this board is also making them extremely busy... to the detrements of all due to the long waits... My suit will be in my Mid-January. I am curious, what styles did all of you ask for this time? For me, my last fitting, I asked for a very english cut while this time, I asked more for a Brioni-type cut. I hope Patrick understood that. GO Power Suits.....
post #28 of 34
Quote:
I think Patrick was a bit nervous this being this first time out and about.  I don't know if that is correct but it is my assumption.  I think most of the people attending WWChan's overseas tours have only known Raymond.  In terms of comparing the two, I think Patrick maybe more fashion forward and not as obliged as Raymond to stay within timeless standards.  I believe Patrick is actually also the cutter, so in the long run, dealing with him in a sense means cutting out the middleman.  I think this board is also making them extremely busy... to the detrements of all due to the long waits...  My suit will be in my Mid-January.   I am curious, what styles did all of you ask for this time?  For me, my last fitting, I asked for a very english cut while this time, I asked more for a Brioni-type cut.  I hope Patrick understood that.  GO Power Suits.....
In my dealings with Raymond, I found that he would suggest things I didn't want (in areas like sleeve length, which he suggested longer and I wanted shorter), but when I told him "no, this is what I want" he would always agree to do it my way. If Patrick hasn't yet learned the "customer is always right" rule, I'm sure it will only take a couple of sessions with OCD Forumistas to knock him back a pace or two. I too am quite curious to see what Raymond is up to now. Based on posts here, it seems as if he has at least a little customer goodwill--I wonder if he will resurface in the US market at some point.
post #29 of 34
I was going to ask for a Brioni type shoulder as well in my suit, I guess we'll see what happens.
post #30 of 34
when you going up warren? my appt is 6:30 on friday. i'm probably only going to do shirts...
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