Blog update: Rubinacci jacket, Anna M. shirt, Ambrosi pants, etc.

They are there to take excess fullness out of the lower back.

Originally Posted by mafoofan

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You mean action shots or video? In the case of the former, we'll see. As for the latter--it's a big enough pain doing photographs.

Just action shots--leaping tall buildings, stopping locomotives, that kind of thing.

Standing stiffly makes the coat look very clean and neat, but somewhat two-dimensional. (I find the same thing with Matt's coats.) It would be interesting to see how it moves. However, don't go to too much trouble. Throw one in when and if you can.

Again, nice coat.

lefty

Originally Posted by Manton

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They are there to take excess fullness out of the lower back.

But I think the fundamental question is "why" are the darts used when a good shirtmaker can usually achieve the fitted look without the darts.

I like darts, if they are done correctly.

I think, without darts, you can achieve a fitted look from the front. Where darts are necessary, or desirable, is on a guy who's waist, and in particular the small of his back, is much narrower than his chest and shoulderblades. This can result in cloth ballooning at the beltline over the back. If you try to take all that out at the sides, the shirt will be too tight across the tummy. Hence the darts: they remove the excess from the back, but leave the fronts, the chest, and the area over the blades alone.

Originally Posted by Manton

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I think, without darts, you can achieve a fitted look from the front. Where darts are necessary, or desirable, is on a guy who's waist, and in particular the small of his back, is much narrower than his chest and shoulderblades. This can result in cloth ballooning at the beltline over the back. If you try to take all that out at the sides, the shirt will be too tight across the tummy. Hence the darts: they remove the excess from the back, but leave the fronts, the chest, and the area over the blades alone.

Totally agreed. That's why I say when done correctly. It's all a balancing act. If, however, the sides are taken in and darts are added (depending how much material is darted), it can lead to the undersirable effect (IMO anyway) where the material gets "sucked up" into the curvature in the lower back rather than draping straight down because too much material was removed. Looks fine from the front and sides, but weird in the back.

But definitely not a problem with mafoofan's shirts.

Originally Posted by mafoofan

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I did not ask for the darts; they were Anna's idea. I have a huge drop (38-inches to 29 inches), so maybe that has something to do with it.

All the pants I have from Ambrosi are double-pleated. They and Mariano seem to be in agreement that I should be wearing doulbe reverse-pleated pants. I have no idea why, but I have no objections either.

I'm imagining those pants without pleats and I think they'd look better that way; if it were me I would have asked alot of questions as to why I should be wearing pleated pants Sounds like a strange thing to say without proper reasoning. Your frame is alot like mine and I wish some of my nicer pleated pants were flat-fronts.

Tremendous Jacket...Nicely done!

Originally Posted by abrocketsfan

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I'm imagining those pants without pleats and I think they'd look better that way; if it were me I would have asked alot of questions as to why I should be wearing pleated pants

Sounds like a strange thing to say without proper reasoning. Your frame is alot like mine and I wish some of my nicer pleated pants were flat-fronts.

Well, as a matter of style, I happen to prefer the pleats. If I had a strong aesthetic aversion to them, I would have pressed on the issue harder.

I prefer pleats too, but if anyone would look good in unpleated pants, it would be you. Perfect build for it. When I think of all those fat trads walking around in flat front pants, out of ideological devotion, I cry inside.

You look great! I particularly love the coat and the tweed fabric you chose - lovely.

The only item I'm a bit lukewarm on is the tie, but all in very well done.

ET

Originally Posted by Manton

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I prefer pleats too, but if anyone would look good in unpleated pants, it would be you. Perfect build for it. When I think of all those fat tards walking around in flat front pants, out of ideological devotion, I cry inside.

You know, when I asked Mariano for no pleats, he had no problem with it at all, in fact he liked the idea. The Ambosi bitched and moaned, so from them I have some with and some without. I am not sure why they had a difference of opinion.

The jacket, shirt and pants look great. Re the bunching in back, the way I was taught was that the extra fabric that forms between the collar and top of the shoulder blades in a horizontal line was bunching and needed to be taken care of, while fabric between the blades that forms a triangle type shape was just extra fullness. I have no idea if that is right, but that is what my Father taught me.

Re darts, all of my shirts have them, both the many I have gotten from Matuozzo and the few buttondowns from Rubinacci's shirt shop.

Originally Posted by iammatt

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while fabric between the blades that forms a triangle type shape was just extra fullness.

The other way to add that fullness is to divided in two and move each part over toward the scye. That's the Scholte way.

You misquoted me, @$$hole.

Originally Posted by Manton

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The other way to add that fullness is to divided in two and move each part over toward the scye. That's the Scholte way.

You misquoted me, @$$hole.
Just trying to help. Every writer needs an editor... BTW, any insight as to why one would like flat front and one would not? Probably impossible to say. Matt- Do you notice that Ambrosi and Rubinacci fit their pants very differently? I find that R's are much trimmer in the seat and upper thigh, and A's taper much more at the cuff. It has nothing to do with flat vs. pleats as I have both types from A.

Nice post.
thank you

Re darts, all my AM shirts have them and I think as stated above they are to keep the lower back trim without affecting the fit of the upper back or lats/sides

I can not visualize how you can get the same fit by just tacking it in from the sides.