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Blog update: Rubinacci jacket, Anna M. shirt, Ambrosi pants, etc. - Page 11

post #151 of 172
Quote:
Originally Posted by iammatt View Post
I find that a lot of English drape is only vertical whereas the cut R does has a much more rounded chest section.

I think this is an understatement...I have not personally seen, nor am I aware of any, English draped coats that are not precisely what you describe: Scholte, to me, means drape emphasized in the vertical plane coming from and going out of the scye.

That being said, in a Scholte-esque coat, I also do expect waist suppression from an underarm dart, and when there is no front dart, a further manipulation of the findings and canvass for shaping of the chest. Well, when it is done well...

But, this is not to the degree that I see with your coats or M's coat from Rubinacci, and I see how this can look really good.

How do you think Rubinacci does this?

I meant to look more closely at the Solito I have...if I see something interesting, I will try to take a relevant photograph tomorrow.

- B
post #152 of 172
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post
Moreover, in the shots of those elements in more casual form (some of which Carl did not favor), I applaud wearing what you have as you like it, without artifice. Let things be wrinkled and out of place. Let your spread collar point behind your ears. The introduction of a bit of carefree-ness is the very thing that makes these works of art breathe a bit more life.

Thanks much for the compliments, Bill. Is there some obscure rule or norm against collar points extending past the ears that I'm unaware of? I wasn't trying to flout sartorial convention .

BTW, does anyone know how to classify the cloth of this jacket? I call it 'tweed' but I suspect it's merely cloth that's been patterned to look like tweed.
post #153 of 172
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
Thanks much for the compliments, Bill. Is there some obscure rule or norm against collar points extending past the ears that I'm unaware of?

Well, the first rule would be: never a shirt without a tie.

After that anachronism, however, any pretense of rules is silly in the 21st century. I think that any cutaway or spread collar would do that if the top two buttons were undone.

For Carl:



BTW, after all the OCBD comments about Manton's CEGO BD, etc., I put on a RTW Borrelli BD this week and realized, "damn, it's got the best roll of all." And horrors...with a fused collar!

- B
post #154 of 172
Vox
Thanks for the photo.
She was very cute in that show. She has had a bit too much plastic surgery since.
Borelli and Kiton both use a very good soft but thick fusing. hence the nice roll.

I guess I do need to compliment Mafoofan on the outfit hs is wearing. It is very well put together. I have no issue with the nipped in waist. Some of my jackets have a nipped in waist, but in my case, the love handles can be seen.

My biggest issue with the jacket was the fullness behind the neck and between the blades. I also think the sleeves need to be turned slightly.
This could all be caused by overly erect posture for the photo.

I would not call your jacket a tweed. Tweed fabrics are usually rougher in finish. Your fabric seems smooth.

Carl
post #155 of 172
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shirtmaven View Post
Borelli and Kiton both use a very good soft but thick fusing. hence the nice roll.

Well I've never worn a Kiton shirt, but I can say that a Borrelli collar is positively stiff compared to the collars on my Matuozzo shirts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shirtmaven View Post
I would not call your jacket a tweed. Tweed fabrics are usually rougher in finish. Your fabric seems smooth.

Ah, thank you. Although, that makes me a little sad. Faux tweed.
post #156 of 172
Mafoofan, I have a question about your "soft" collar Anna M shirts. Are they made without collar stays?
post #157 of 172
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pocketsquareguy View Post
Mafoofan, I have a question about your "soft" collar Anna M shirts. Are they made without collar stays?

No stays or any place to put them. When I asked Anna about making my collars so that they could fit stays, she frowned scornfully at me.
post #158 of 172
In the front picture of your shirt, it looks loose across the pits, and through the arms. But when I see a side picture, it doesn't look loose and "blousey" anymore. I'm a bit confused. If anything I would slim the arms but I don't think I can tell just from the pictures. Stylistically, I am not a fan of the larger cuffs and really, really don't think you should unbutton so many buttons at the top. It looks a little too "What's your sign? Look at my chest baby!" But that's my style and style isn't something you correct I don't think. As for the jacket being so slim, I like it but the only thing I would say to that is that it makes your body look smaller in regards to your head. I would just look into that extra fabric in the back.
post #159 of 172
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
No stays or any place to put them. When I asked Anna about making my collars so that they could fit stays, she frowned scornfully at me.
I like that! What a nice, relaxed touch for a dress shirt. I can relate because for most of my life I threw away collar stays as soon as I bought a shirt. There is something I don't like about looking "too stiff" and taking away collar stays is one way, especially with sport coats and sportswear.
post #160 of 172
the break on the trousers is perfect & slim w/o looking ridiculous.

i love every part of this outfit, except i'm still not so certain about the 1-button look for this jacket. but i guess that's just preference at this point.
post #161 of 172
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley View Post
mafoofan - Is that a Porter & Harding fabric?

Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
I have no idea.

Sorry for the delayed response, E., but I recently learned that it's John G. Hardy Worsted Alsport (12 oz.).
post #162 of 172
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zegnamtl View Post
The jacket looks great from the front, but the back is a little troublesome,
is it just this one frame, or does it always have this effect?



that indeed looks kinda odd
post #163 of 172
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by AMAR420 View Post
that indeed looks kinda odd

The two diagonal lines making up the triangle aren't really an issue, from my understanding. But they're going to tweak the back a little to get rid of the horizontal excess.
post #164 of 172
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
The two diagonal lines making up the triangle aren't really an issue, from my understanding. But they're going to tweak the back a little to get rid of the horizontal excess.

It just doesn't look natural to me. I would take your jacket back for real and get the problem fixed.
post #165 of 172
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by AMAR420 View Post
It just doesn't look natural to me. I would take your jacket back for real and get the problem fixed.

Like I said, they have to tweak the back a little.
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