Blog update: Rubinacci jacket, Anna M. shirt, Ambrosi pants, etc. - Page 11

I think this is an understatement...I have not personally seen, nor am I aware of any, English draped coats that are not precisely what you describe: Scholte, to me, means drape emphasized in the vertical plane coming from and going out of the scye.

That being said, in a Scholte-esque coat, I also do expect waist suppression from an underarm dart, and when there is no front dart, a further manipulation of the findings and canvass for shaping of the chest. Well, when it is done well...

But, this is not to the degree that I see with your coats or M's coat from Rubinacci, and I see how this can look really good.

How do you think Rubinacci does this?

I meant to look more closely at the Solito I have...if I see something interesting, I will try to take a relevant photograph tomorrow.

- B

Well, the first rule would be: never a shirt without a tie.

After that anachronism, however, any pretense of rules is silly in the 21st century. I think that any cutaway or spread collar would do that if the top two buttons were undone.

For Carl:



BTW, after all the OCBD comments about Manton's CEGO BD, etc., I put on a RTW Borrelli BD this week and realized, "damn, it's got the best roll of all." And horrors...with a fused collar!

- B

Vox
Thanks for the photo.
She was very cute in that show. She has had a bit too much plastic surgery since.
Borelli and Kiton both use a very good soft but thick fusing. hence the nice roll.

I guess I do need to compliment Mafoofan on the outfit hs is wearing. It is very well put together. I have no issue with the nipped in waist. Some of my jackets have a nipped in waist, but in my case, the love handles can be seen.

My biggest issue with the jacket was the fullness behind the neck and between the blades. I also think the sleeves need to be turned slightly.
This could all be caused by overly erect posture for the photo.

I would not call your jacket a tweed. Tweed fabrics are usually rougher in finish. Your fabric seems smooth.

Carl

Mafoofan, I have a question about your "soft" collar Anna M shirts. Are they made without collar stays?

In the front picture of your shirt, it looks loose across the pits, and through the arms. But when I see a side picture, it doesn't look loose and "blousey" anymore. I'm a bit confused. If anything I would slim the arms but I don't think I can tell just from the pictures. Stylistically, I am not a fan of the larger cuffs and really, really don't think you should unbutton so many buttons at the top. It looks a little too "What's your sign? Look at my chest baby!" But that's my style and style isn't something you correct I don't think. As for the jacket being so slim, I like it but the only thing I would say to that is that it makes your body look smaller in regards to your head. I would just look into that extra fabric in the back.

I like that! What a nice, relaxed touch for a dress shirt. I can relate because for most of my life I threw away collar stays as soon as I bought a shirt. There is something I don't like about looking "too stiff" and taking away collar stays is one way, especially with sport coats and sportswear.

the break on the trousers is perfect & slim w/o looking ridiculous.

i love every part of this outfit, except i'm still not so certain about the 1-button look for this jacket. but i guess that's just preference at this point.

that indeed looks kinda odd

It just doesn't look natural to me. I would take your jacket back for real and get the problem fixed.