Quote:
Originally Posted by
billiebob 
Hickey Freeman "LTD" is fused, or at least the ones I saw in Syms for $300 were.
This is absolutely true. I forgot about the Ltd. line when I wrote that prior post. However, I don't think that Nordstrom (where I bought mine) offers Ltd. in their MTM program.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
OxxfordSJLINY 
That is all excellent to know!

BTW, how much flexibility does Hickey Freeman full made to measure have compared to full MTM from Samuelsohn, Canali, Oxxford and Brioni?
FWIW, when I say full MTM (which is the only MTM that Oxxford and Brioni have), I mean MTM with a sizeable amount more flexibility or much more flexibility than ready to wear and not MTM that is really made to order with little more flexibility than RTW.
I'm afraid you'll have to be a bit more specific when you talk about flexibility. I'll try to answer the question, but I may not hit what you're getting at. Also, I can't compare to these other programs because I've never used them.
The HF MTM program uses measurements (chest, waist, hips, inseam, outseam, etc.) as it's starting point. However, they are (I suspect) using that to match you up with a standard size (in my case 42L jacket with 38 trousers...note to self: go to the gym). The jacket and trousers then come pretty much adjusted to fit. Small tweaks may be needed.
The cut of the jacket is based on the standard HF silouette (Madison, Regent*, etc.) in various configurations on both the jacket (1BPL, 2B, 3B, 2/3, DB etc.) and trousers (flat front or pleated).
Additionally, you can order a number of different "extras" for very small additional charges. On the trousers some of these might include: hidden watch pocket on trousers, heel guards, cuffs, suspender buttons, etc. On the jacket some of these might include: ticket pocket, pic stitching, special linings, working cuff buttons, etc.
Also, you have the option to add (at additional cost) a second pair of trousers and/or a vest. The vest is based on one of several basic configurations, including SB w/o lapels, SB w/lapels or DB.
Generally, on the two I've ordered the fit has been pretty close. However, some fit issues do have to be resolved at the retailer. In my case I often wind up with "wings" behind my arms where the back needs to be taken in through the arm holes. The Nordstrom tailors did this. They also tweaked the fit of the jacket and did some pretty substantial modifications to the fit of the vest to get a good "touch" fit. Any major changes are noted in the computer file for HF to make adjustments to future orders in the factory.
I ordered my last one (from the picture above) with working button holes. The sleeves came unfinished and the button holes were added by the retailer. My understanding is that now that the exact length has been determined, any future orders should come with working button holes from HF.
Not sure if this answers your questions or not.
* Sorry I meant Barrett. Regent is, I believe, the HF silouette that they make exclusively for NM. Though I'm going from memory so that may be wrong also.