The aesthetics of tab collars puzzle me. Manton at the top of this March 2008 thread said that he likes them. Then in this summer 2010 thread
, he says that he now doesn't "think [the tab collar] looks all that great with [his] crane neck and pillar-shaped head." I understand what he means: I too have a crane neck and long narrow face, and wider spreads with a high collar band seem to nicely counterbalance them. Indeed, Flusser's general advice (CLOTHES AND THE MAN (Villard 1989), pp. 70-71) is:
(1) Counterbalance a long, narrow face with a wider-spread collar opening,
(2) Counterbalance a rounder face with a longer-point narrow collar opening.
(3) Swathe a long neck in a high-banded shirt collar.
(4) Clothe a short neck in a short-banded shirt collar.
But then on p. 76, Flusser says that the tab collar's kissing cousin, the pin collar, "looks best on men with a medium to long neck." Makes sense: since the pin and the tab have almost no collar opening, they lengthen the line of the collar points, thus making the collar seem higher in front. But where does this leave crane-necked men with long narrow faces? According to Flusser, they need a wide-spread collar to counterbalance the long face. The tab and the pin can't give them that.
So in Flusser's view, are the tab and the pin best for men with medium to long necks AND wide faces? Maybe: the book's first photo (p. x) shows a wide-faced, medium-necked Cary Grant wearing a pin collar with a shorter band. Looks very good on him.
But then why did the rather narrow- and long-faced Duke of Windsor invent the tab collar (Flusser 1989, p. 78)? If anyone knew how to make clothes flatter his body, he did. Just to the get the "Viagra for ties" look mentioned above?
Below is from SkinnyGoomba's OP in the 2010 thread:
Originally Posted by SkinnyGoomba
I like it, picking one up this week.I'm unsure of what to wear it with other than wool business suits, I'm thinking possibly linen as well.