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Proper Blazer Fit - Page 3

post #31 of 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by Felix Krull View Post
I second this declaration! GQ is a bastion of obscene fashion fantasy. I have never seen an important man dressed like he was attuned to any trends displayed in GQ.

post #32 of 46
I think the shorter skirt can only look good on men with a large drop. If you have a regular drop, then you can't have a lot of waist suppression and have the jacket ending at the widest part of the hips. The jacket will give you an hourglass shape. This looks girlish. This effect will be especially exaggerated if your trousers add any bulk, either by their weight and texture, or by the way they are cut. I guess the model in the picture has a 38 inch chest and a 30 waist. The shorter skirt does not make his hips look plump. Nothing will ever make his hips look plump. If you are built this way, you are going to look pretty good in almost anything. If you are not built that way, you need to think twice before you imitate. Also note his jeans are slim-fitting. Put him in wide-wale cords or JAB gabardine trousers with double pleats and maybe even he would look silly--maybe. Not sure; he's a photogenic dude.
post #33 of 46
Jeez you guys are harsh. Yes, the rule is for a blazer to cover the posterior. However, the OP is 18, not 58. The pic he provided from GQ (which I think was part of a makeover article) works because:

-the model is young and in good shape
-his jeans are slim fitting
-his jacket is slim and well fitting.
-his shoes aren't bulky

If any of the above four things changed the look wouldn't work.

If the OP played some of "the rules" posted here he would be going to go out to a bar in a Brioni sportcoat, T&A shirt and Borreli pants. He would probably feel ridiculous. I think the image he posted is a good starting point for him to get into some brands and cuts that will suit his age and activities.

My suggestion to Lookatmystyle would be to peruse the streetwear "What Are You Wearing Today" thread and see what you like. Research, ebay and experimentation will be your friends. Good luck!
post #34 of 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron View Post
If the OP played some of "the rules" posted here he would be going to go out to a bar in a Brioni sportcoat, T&A shirt and Borreli pants. He would probably feel ridiculous. I think the image he posted is a good starting point for him to get into some brands and cuts that will suit his age and activities.


He'd probably get laid.
post #35 of 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by X-Calibre View Post
He'd probably get laid.
Bar skanks go apeshit for Borrelli.
post #36 of 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dewey View Post
I guess the model in the picture has a 38 inch chest and a 30 waist. The shorter skirt does not make his hips look plump. Nothing will ever make his hips look plump. If you are built this way, you are going to look pretty good in almost anything. If you are not built that way, you need to think twice before you imitate.
Thanks for this insight, as it's thoughts that I see, but can't always put into words. Its there any thoughts you can think of jacket and trouser fit to watch out for with body of these proportions, other than keeping things relatively slim? What about styling details that won't flatter? I think it's important to keep cohesive from head to toe, even with the abeit bigger drop.
post #37 of 46
There's a big difference between wearing a blazer with jeans (GQ pic) and wearing a suit (Ocean's whatever pic). The former is, in any case, a historically non-conventional combination and therefore less subject to any assumed rules about jacket length. For what it's worth, I think the short blazer posted in the GQ pic looks good with jeans. As other posters have noted however, it's a 'slim' look and probably not to be attempted if your body shape is any wider than ideal.

Personally, I'm happy to wear both shorter and longer jackets in an informal context. The short-jacket trend has been with us for quite a while now and I don't see it disappearing any time soon.

Shorter / longer examples:

/
post #38 of 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by X-Calibre View Post
He'd probably get laid.
By someone his age, no. By a mum, yes. One's dress should be appropriate for the social situation in which it is going to be worn in.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 0b5cur1ty View Post
The former is, in any case, a historically non-conventional combination and therefore less subject to any assumed rules about jacket length.
Thank you.
post #39 of 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by erdawe View Post
Thanks for this insight, as it's thoughts that I see, but can't always put into words. Its there any thoughts you can think of jacket and trouser fit to watch out for with body of these proportions, other than keeping things relatively slim? What about styling details that won't flatter?
If you have a young face, no gray hair or wrinkles, etc., and a slim body with a big drop, then the only styling details that won't flatter (with the broader public) are (a) poor fits and (b) fashionable eccentricity. Older men can get away with poor fits if they look deliberately chosen, e.g., a loose, billowy fit on a linen suit in the summer might look breezy and cool. Young guys should not do anything that makes them look more inexperienced; if you wear your pants at Thom Browne length, most people will probably think you don't know what you are doing. Young guys tend not to get the benefit of the doubt when it comes to such things. Fashionable eccentricity on young guys is gilding the lily. You are already young and beautiful. You should not do weird shit with your clothes to detract from that unless, of course, you are really pissed off at the world and want to stage some kind of self-mutilation as a protest (which seems to be a popular attitude over the last few decades). I would suggest that you leave the performance art type stuff for guys who are not so gifted with youth and beauty.
post #40 of 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by 0b5cur1ty View Post
There's a big difference between wearing a blazer with jeans (GQ pic) and wearing a suit (Ocean's whatever pic). The former is, in any case, a historically non-conventional combination and therefore less subject to any assumed rules about jacket length. For what it's worth, I think the short blazer posted in the GQ pic looks good with jeans. As other posters have noted however, it's a 'slim' look and probably not to be attempted if your body shape is any wider than ideal.

Personally, I'm happy to wear both shorter and longer jackets in an informal context. The short-jacket trend has been with us for quite a while now and I don't see it disappearing any time soon.

Shorter / longer examples:

/


the waist line on the shorter jacket is up near your rib cage, not at your waist.
is it a short?
post #41 of 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by a tailor View Post
the waist line on the shorter jacket is up near your rib cage, not at your waist.
is it a short?
I'm not sure I completely understand what you mean - by waist line you mean the narrowest part of the jacket? This maybe being dragged upwards slightly by my raised arm in that picture. Today's WAYWRN shot features the same jacket in a slightly more natural stance:



The shorter jacket is an OTR fashion jacket deliberately cut to be short: There are no short and long models, this is an unaltered size 'M'.
post #42 of 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by apropos View Post
By someone his age, no. By a mum, yes.

One's dress should be appropriate for the social situation in which it is going to be worn in.


Thank you.

Well I think it depends on the bar he's going to. I think the average Brioni (if there is such a thing) is going to fit like a tent anyway on a slim fellow. But if we substitute RLPL for Brioni, then I think there are quite a few bars in many metropolitan cities where a young guy in a well fitting sport coat and dress pants would do well. Don't we have to believe that structural details such as full canvassing are going to effect someone's appearance in a positive manner.
post #43 of 46
hey folks, I just picked up a JCrew tweed sportcoat and a BR corded blazer this past week (both in Short length) and was wondering about the frontal appearance and whether or not I got the sizing right. The fit of both seems pretty much spot on in the shoulders/chest but I'm wondering how the front should appear. I rarely wear a suit and this is my first time buying a casual blazer.

Specifically, I'm referring to the front opening beneath the lower button (2-button) and how it should appear, for example, if one had their hands in their pockets. Should your belt/tie/shirt show a little or is this considered improper? Of course, only the top button is buttoned and I was referring to this 'proper fit' image I found on esq. as a reference point:



If I place my hands straight down in front of me as in the picture I can achieve the so-called "just right" look, but when I place my hands in my pockets, the appearance is more as such:



Can anyone please chime in as to what is considered a proper, traditional aesthetic for how this should appear? Should I worry if so much is visible below the second button or is this considered ok? Im wondering if I need to try out a Regular length or if the Short length I got is alright. I'd take pix but I'm at work atm. Thanks for any feedback.
post #44 of 46
The blazer or any jacket should come down on the rear or if you lay your hands to the side you want the tips of your hands to come close to touching the bottom of the coat.
post #45 of 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by aphextwin07 View Post
Can anyone please chime in as to what is considered a proper, traditional aesthetic for how this should appear? Should I worry if so much is visible below the second button or is this considered ok? Im wondering if I need to try out a Regular length or if the Short length I got is alright. I'd take pix but I'm at work atm. Thanks for any feedback.

Putting hands in pockets is inevitably going to make the fronts spread a bit. A common problem is wearing pants without a decent rise--they expose shirt below the jacket button, screwing up proportions and making you look shorter. As for the length, whatever covers your ass without going far past it.
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