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Grenson last query

post #1 of 17
Thread Starter 
I received a pair of Stowes in black from Bennies, and I think the chisel-toed last is superb. The interior is marked "8003/01". I was wondering if any resident Grenson experts knew if other models were made on that last, or if it was exclusive to Paul Stuart. I also received the Oundle in cognac which, while a beautiful shoe, doesn't quite have the distinctive Stowe last I seek. Am wearing cognac Radleys today--what a great haul.
post #2 of 17
If it's the same as the non-Paul Stuart branded Grenson Stowe, then it's on the 92 last.  From the 2003-2004 catalogue, the only other models on this last are the Wellington, Cranbrook and Felstead.
post #3 of 17
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the help. The Cranbrook looks great--'course they're not exactly giving them away. Is the Grenson 92 last similar to the "newer" C&J 337 last? I haven't seen them side by side.
post #4 of 17
Quote:
Thanks for the help. The Cranbrook looks great--'course they're not exactly giving them away. Is the Grenson 92 last similar to the "newer" C&J 337 last? I haven't seen them side by side.
No, I think that the new last that they're using for some of the Paul Stuart shoes (I've asked them about its number, but I haven't gotten a reply) is more analagous to the C&J 337. 92 (and 91, which is similar to 92 and which PS also uses extensively) are probably closer to EG's 606, although they lack some of the 606's elegance.
post #5 of 17
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the clarification. I guess the issue is whether my wholecut is on the 92 last or on the Paul Stuart last . . the shoe is marked with a "P" on the inside, but the bottom says Grenson. It's difficult for me to discern the last in the Grenson Stowe website picture because the shot is from the side.
post #6 of 17
Have any of you bought the Cranbrook? I've been tempted by it -- very nice looking. Is it from the Masterpiece line with the channelled sole?
post #7 of 17
Quote:
Thanks for the help.  The Cranbrook looks great--'course they're not exactly giving them away.  Is the Grenson 92 last similar to the "newer" C&J 337 last?  I haven't seen them side by side.
Also bear in mind that the 91 and 92 lasts are UK F fittings (although Paul Stuart may offer different ones), whereas the C&J 337 last is a UK E fitting. If it helps at all, the cheapest place that I've seen to get Grenson Masterpieces is this site.  I've not had any dealings with them though, and they haven't got the Cranbrook in stock, but they're happy to do a search for you.
post #8 of 17
Thread Starter 
Actually, it appears from your helpful link that the Stowe is on the 88 last rather than the 91 or 92. This is definitely my shoe--the Stowe reminds me of the Ladbroke (or is actively copying the Ladbroke). Is the Ladbroke on the 606 last, or typically the 808?
post #9 of 17
Quote:
This is definitely my shoe--the Stowe reminds me of the Ladbroke (or is actively copying the Ladbroke). Is the Ladbroke on the 606 last, or typically the 808?
Well, there are certain canonical styles of classic English shoes, and this is one of them. I have no idea who came up with that design, but it's long enough in the past that it wouldn't be fair to say that Grenson is copying EG or that EG is copying Grenson. I would suspect that EG makes the Ladbroke on 888, 202, and now 82 more than 606. 808 has largely been superceded by 888, although they will use it on special orders.
post #10 of 17
Quote:
Actually, it appears from your helpful link that the Stowe is on the 88 last rather than the 91 or 92.  This is definitely my shoe--the Stowe reminds me of the Ladbroke (or is actively copying the Ladbroke).  Is the Ladbroke on the 606 last, or typically the 808?
I think that website's wrong then - my Grenson catalogue definitely says that the Stowe is on the 92 last.  Also see this website and naturlaut's post on this thread.
post #11 of 17
Quote:
I think that website's wrong then - my Grenson catalogue definitely says that the Stowe is on the 92 last. Also see this website and naturlaut's post on this thread.
It's certainly possible that the website is wrong about the last, but it's also certainly possible that Grenson will make the same pattern on different lasts: EG and many of the Italian makers certainly will. That being said, I've never heard of a Grenson 88 last (the only 88 last that I know of is the EG classic of that number), although I'm not as familiar with Grenson lasts as I am with lasts for other makers.
post #12 of 17
I was thinking the same thing too, but I don't think Grenson offers that kind of flexibility with lasts (ditto C&J?).  Or maybe the shoes on that website were made on the 88 last by mistake and that's why they're so cheap... The 88 last is used for some of the models in the Grenson Footmasters range (Erskine, Eden).
post #13 of 17
Quote:
I was thinking the same thing too, but I don't think Grenson offers that kind of flexibility with lasts (ditto C&J?).
Well, Grenson is advertising a customized shoes program on their website, and one of the features that they say you can choose is the last. Of course, I'm been unable to get them to answer a simple enquiry about the program, so I know nothing more than what is on the website.
post #14 of 17
Good call. I was actually thinking about whether Grenson offers models made up on different lasts as part of normal stock, rather than special orders. I think even C&J allows for special orders, they just charge bucketloads for them.
post #15 of 17
new photos of available stock on Grensons now up size 8-13, this is what is left guys....
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