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Dress Shirts for a Slim Guy

post #1 of 18
Thread Starter 
i am curious about who makes dress shirts that are cut to fit someone with a slimmer build. I am 5-10 135lbs and except for the 4 or 5 shirts i picked up while traveling to Italy and Spain all my American made shirts seem to be rather loose on me. I wear a 15.5 32/33 but i still feel as though the shirts have too much fabric, especially in the torso and back area. And advise on brands or solutions would be greatly appreciated.
post #2 of 18
Ascot Chang, Barba, and Charvet are the usual suspects, though not an 'American' Charvet, which is cut bigger. Others have had luck with the 'slim' line in various makers, such as Thomas Pink. In all likelihood, you'll probably have to go MTM.
post #3 of 18
Turnbull & Asser shirts are cut slim. Especially the shirts in their botiques, vs. shirts found at Neiman Marcus, etc. Also if you are going for style vs. top quality, Versace, Jil Sander, and Prada all make slim shirts. For a 15.5 neck, their chest measurments tend to fall within 39"-44". I'd only purchase these designers if the prices are under $100/shirt though, which is usually about 50-75% off retail.
post #4 of 18
You've got to go MTM I'm afraid. Things are better with those companies already mentioned - I have many Turnbull and Asser shirts that are OK. But still lots of extra fabric around the middle. With the many Hong Kong tailors on the web, if price is an issue, you can now get custom shirts for well under $100 too.
post #5 of 18
Helmut Lang, Costume National, and Jil Sander are your best bets. HL if you are more square and angular, but slim, Costume if you have a bigger drop, and Jil Sander if you have narrow shoulders and chest. Prada is similar to Jil Sander, with a little more give in the chest and shoulders.
post #6 of 18
I was just gonna add Costume, Helmut, and Comme des Garcons, but you beat me to it.
post #7 of 18
I would also add Ted Baker and Emporio Armani in the bunch. (Quickly leaves before fellow members can launch pies at me).
post #8 of 18
Quote:
I would also add Ted Baker and Emporio Armani in the bunch. (Quickly leaves before fellow members can launch pies at me).
I found Ted Baker shirts to be rather baggy. 15.5 had perhaps a 48" chest. Maybe they have different cuts for different stores.
post #9 of 18
Would you wear suit without having it tailored? Of course not. So do the same with your shirts. Find a dressmaker (yup, a dressmaker). She will have lots of experience with darting, and can take in any dress shirt. You'll pay less than twenty bucks, and get a shirt that fits vastly better.
post #10 of 18
My experience is that the tailor at the store will put these darts into the shirt for no extra cost. Am I alone in having this experience?
post #11 of 18
Quote:
You've got to go MTM I'm afraid.  Things are better with those companies already mentioned - I have many Turnbull and Asser shirts that are OK.  But still lots of extra fabric around the middle. With the many Hong Kong tailors on the web, if price is an issue, you can now get custom shirts for well under $100 too.
Any Hong Kong Tailors you can personally reccommend? Thanks.
post #12 of 18
Slimmest OTR shirt I've tried is Borrelli at the boutique; Barba and Attolini are also more slim-cut. koji
post #13 of 18
If you're in either NYC or LA, Seize sur Vingt is quite slim fitting, about like the Barba.
post #14 of 18
I would definetely recommend Ascot Chang. I not only think they are very slim cut, but are also very high quality, specially for the prices they ask. I have also had the problem with cut for a long time and Chang solved it entirely. I have also bought Zegna at their boutique and got slim fitting shirts, though not as Chang. For those living in the NY area, Ascot Chang's outlet store in woodbury is very nice, with a good selection and low prices ($60 or less mostly). The first time I went there, the manager was very nice and even measured my arm length and neck cause he wanted to be sure of my size and chatted for a bit. -Ilvangelo
post #15 of 18
I agree with the suggestion of having your shirts modified by a tailor, it should only cost about $10-15.  However, have the tailor take in the material on the sides, instead of putting darts in the back - it will be more comfortable and look a lot better.
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