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Austro-Hungarian school of shoemaking - Page 41

post #601 of 1254
4/23/12 at 11:59pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerrybrowne View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzl View Post

let's talk budapester then. same as the wiener, budapester applies for both - model and last. the budapester is a very distinctive last hence the nickname sharkmouth.
ambassador and one of the most popular wearer was budapest born stock market expert André Kostolany
pictured is a budapester model on the, i have to guess, p2 or F last.
the budapester comes in three basic variations:
standard welt, as pictured
270 degree goyserer welt
360 degree goyserer welt
unfortunately the website with a pictorial of the historical development of this iconic last has changed and is no longer available.

Nice looking shoe. Why do I always see this shape forefoot associated with the budapester?

vass_budapest5md.jpg

it's simple, this is the iconic budapester last aka sharkmouth on a budapester model with 270 degree goyserer welt.

as good as it gets.
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post #602 of 1254
4/24/12 at 2:40am
Thread Starter 
you guys keep me busy. it's a nice morning routine to check the thread and i absolutely get used to it. keep em coming.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rikod View Post

That is the F, more narrow & pointy, I ordered that one inspired in a photo posted by A Portnoy in the first few pages of the Vass thread. Love this shoe, but only for business dress, too sleek for my taste to wear casual with jeans etc. My next budapester will be in the P2 or 3636 in shell.

so, i was close. haven't seen the F in person, yet, so i keep my opinion reserved.

do you already know, if the 3636 fits you and what combination do you have in mind?
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post #603 of 1254
4/24/12 at 3:33am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rikod View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
233

233

234
Guys, what about plain toe derbies?,

There are some unbelievable ones at the beginning of this thread, tell me something about them?

yes, i do.

hm1.jpg

DSC_0145.jpg

DSC_0146.jpg

handmacher mto. old horse oxblood calf.

and a little anecdote: when i first met master Feher in 1996 we discussed my first bespoke order.

Feher: i make you a plain derby. what colour do you want?
me: ahem, i want a ..., tbh, i don't rember
F: well, than i don't make you a pair of shoes.
me: no, no make it...

today i know that with your first order, you're pretty safe, when you keep it simple. i highly regard his opinion. it's always on my mind.

all the makers i met in my life had/have their quirky mannerism. is it better than meeting a sales rep. at a trunk show? imo, it is more authentic.

i have tons of these cute little stories in my head. i have written down a few in my mother tongue. please, do not hesitate to push the buttons, if this kind of stories is your thing. i would love to share with people of the same mind.

ps: can you give me a hint which one is the unbelievable?
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post #604 of 1254
4/24/12 at 4:32am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rikod View Post

Guys, what about plain toe derbies?, one of my favorites.

gk10.jpg

scott.jpg

i was able to get them for a fellow member and he really likes them.
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post #605 of 1254
4/24/12 at 5:34am
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzl View Post

ps: can you give me a hint which one is the unbelievable?

That last one you just posted if one of them (and the one above too). Different styles, Both fantastic
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post #606 of 1254
4/24/12 at 5:47am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rikod View Post

That last one you just posted if one of them (and the one above too). Different styles, Both fantastic

right now, i'm a bit lost eek.giffistbump.gif
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post #607 of 1254
4/24/12 at 6:49am

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by rikod View Post


That is the F, more narrow & pointy, I ordered that one inspired in a photo posted by A Portnoy in the first few pages of the Vass thread. Love this shoe, but only for business dress, too sleek for my taste to wear casual with jeans etc. My next budapester will be in the P2 or 3636 in shell.

 

 

I like the P2 too, but right now I like the idea of an F last  blucher in suede.  I find suede dresses up and down nicely, although I'd draw the line at wearing suede with shorts.

 

My thinking is that if the last fits u just need to vary the style to cover the entire wardrobe. 

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post #608 of 1254
4/24/12 at 7:08am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pliny View Post


My thinking is that if the last fits u just need to vary the style to cover the entire wardrobe. 

+1,
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post #609 of 1254
4/24/12 at 7:34am
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzl View Post

right now, i'm a bit lost eek.giffistbump.gif

Why?, what I meant is that I like both derbies you just posted in this page, that they are different styles but love them both.

What about oxfords?, what is the place of oxfords in the AH school?, I prefer derbies in general but I enjoy oxfords too and fit me well.
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post #610 of 1254
4/24/12 at 7:43am
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzl View Post

it's simple, this is the iconic budapester last aka sharkmouth on a budapester model with 270 degree goyserer welt.
as good as it gets.

Thinking about doing those in a boot version in dark brown scotch grain for next Winter...is the 270 degree goyser more traditional than the 360 degree version?
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post #611 of 1254
4/24/12 at 7:58am
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzl View Post

do you already know, if the 3636 fits you and what combination do you have in mind?

No, but I have received enough feedback from members and from Vass and I'm willing to order based on that. I'm undecided between a Theresianer, Atl Wien, plain toe, or a norweger in light colored grain. I'm leaning toward a plain toe or the norweger. It will be a gift from my wife for my 50th birthday. Any suggestions would be welcome!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pliny View Post


I like the P2 too, but right now I like the idea of an F last  blucher in suede.  I find suede dresses up and down nicely, although I'd draw the line at wearing suede with shorts.

My thinking is that if the last fits u just need to vary the style to cover the entire wardrobe. 

You are right, it's a personal thing, I'm used to wear more substantial? footwear with jeans.
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post #612 of 1254
4/24/12 at 8:06am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slewfoot View Post

Thinking about doing those in a boot version in dark brown scotch grain for next Winter...is the 270 degree goyser more traditional than the 360 degree version?

great to see you here. david, tbh honest i don't know.

from my personal experience according to my conversation with the three master shoemakers mr. kiss, mr. feher and mr. kovacs, they preferred the 270 for shoes. we never discussed boots, though.

here's my bal with 270 goyserer made by mr. kovacs. imo, a hybrid. he didn't complain.

Kovacs2-1.jpg
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post #613 of 1254
4/24/12 at 8:22am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rikod View Post

Why?,
Quote:
Originally Posted by rikod View Post

There are some unbelievable ones at the beginning of this thread, tell me something about them?

are you referring to page one or to pictures after the weekend kick off?
Quote:
Originally Posted by rikod View Post

What about oxfords?, what is the place of oxfords in the AH school?, I prefer derbies in general but I enjoy oxfords too and fit me well.

i haven't seen many. here's an example from the workshop of mr. materna

041.jpg

i would say that oxfords are a niche product in the AH tradition. when you find some in the workshops of e.g. materna, balint, maftei, petkov to name a few of the viennese workshops they are mostly influenced by english or italian characteristics due to the demand of their international clientele. the typical local client deceides between theresianer, alt wien and norweger, that's it.
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post #614 of 1254
4/24/12 at 10:01am
Quote:
Originally Posted by rikod View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzl View Post

do you already know, if the 3636 fits you and what combination do you have in mind?

No, but I have received enough feedback from members and from Vass and I'm willing to order based on that. I'm undecided between a Theresianer, Atl Wien, plain toe, or a norweger in light colored grain. I'm leaning toward a plain toe or the norweger. It will be a gift from my wife for my 50th birthday. Any suggestions would be welcome!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pliny View Post


I like the P2 too, but right now I like the idea of an F last  blucher in suede.  I find suede dresses up and down nicely, although I'd draw the line at wearing suede with shorts.

My thinking is that if the last fits u just need to vary the style to cover the entire wardrobe. 

You are right, it's a personal thing, I'm used to wear more substantial? footwear with jeans.

My only Vass are a pair of norwegers in a light colored grain on the P2 last. I love them, and have received many compliments on them. I think they look fantastic with a pair of dark wash denim.
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post #615 of 1254
4/24/12 at 11:55am
Quote:
Originally Posted by imatlas View Post

My only Vass are a pair of norwegers in a light colored grain on the P2 last. I love them, and have received many compliments on them. I think they look fantastic with a pair of dark wash denim.

Sounds great, can you post a photo of them?
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