Austro-Hungarian school of shoemaking - Page 81

Paprika (lighter) & Vass (darker)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Looks like you need either thin socks with the Vass, or thick socks with the Paprika.

Both could benefit from toe plates to help with the way your gait works the fronts.

the paprika has noticeably nicer lasting around the heel. Obviously that depends on the shape of your foot, but this has been a major bone of contention with most rtw and mto shoes for me; the lasts are designed to fit the most feet possible and unfortunately this sacrifices a snug fit for those with healthy shapely heels to accomodate those with blobs.

Even my Vass get this wrong.

It's not the biggest deal because I deal with it by cementing in an additional sockliner, but I yearn for a shoe that gets this right.

what makes you say this?

There appears to be more volume in the Paprika.

With my Paprika boot I have noticed a far more robust heel cup design as compared to my other balmoral and derby boots. Never had such a good heel fit with no slippage other than with a bespoke pair.

 

The Rain last (the only 1 I have experience with) is narrower, esp. in the toe box, but this pair of wholecuts is slightly loose in the heels. Another pair of Carmina derbies on the Rain (comparison pix to come soon) are also slightly narrow in the toes, but w/o the heel slippage. I think that I have high-ish insteps; if I lace the Carminas tight enough to stop the heel slippage, then I get pain at the instep. I get a little bit of rubbing at the instep in Paprikas, but not much.

 

My knowledge of shoes isn't good enough to explain exactly what I mean to say, but both pairs fit very similarly. The Paprikas don't need thick socks, even though it looks like they're  wider at the instep, & the Vass don't need thin socks. I get a comfortable fit w/ both, esp. in the toe box, w/ the Paprikas rubbing a little on the instep. Gerd made the same comment about the toe tap. I'll have to get some put on.

Today's dance partner: Alfred Sargent monks in burgundy shell cordovan on the 87 last.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Co-starring Allen Edmonds shell cordovan Strands (AE 10E, Paprika 43.5 [I believe]):

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by ncdobson - 11/17/12 at 4:47pm

Last shoe-dialogue (for a while, at least): The grand old man of American shoes, the Alden LWB in #8 shell cordovan. Barrie 10D in LWB: 43.5 (I think) in Paprika.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Group shot: Vass 3636, AS 87, Carmina Rain, Paprika, Alden Barrie, AE 5.

 

 

 

 

Crude Iphone shot...top row 3636
Bottom L-R Budapester, P2 and F

Nice stuff, sstomcat. The P2 last seems a little more elongated than F last.

Yes you are right.