Rider: Your note re: Goodyear welts seems to connote that most shoes that are marketed as goodyear welted are misrepresented. Clearly, shoes such as Alden, AE, C&J, Green, et al are welted. They do not have a glued on welt; the welt is stitched to the feather on the insole. Now what they do have, and what perhaps the Weston Hunt does not, is a glued-on linen feather on the insole, to which the welt is sewn. This is in contrast to the skived feather that a bespoke shoe (and a Vass shoes) has, and to which the welt is stitched on these shoes. My impression is that the term goodyear welt comes from the machinery developed at the end of the 19th century by US Shoe Machinery that enabled the automation of the welting process; I would assume that this machinery required a glued-on feather, rather than a skived one. Do you know if this is correct, or whether the original equipment used a cut or skived feather? If the former, then as far as I know the "goodyear welted" shoes are correctly named.