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Isaia models - Page 4

post #46 of 54

I looked at that same suit/color, but unfortunately they don't have my size.  I ended up getting this one in charcoal/blue instead...

 

http://www.sierratradingpost.com/isaia-subtle-windowpane-suit-wool-for-men~p~5950g/

 

Interestingly, the model doesn't correspond to anything listed here...

 

 

Seems to have the typical Isaia fit - unstructured, slightly roped shoulders and closely fitted through the waist - but the suit is lacking many of the typical Isaia details: the lining is plain with no logos, nor are there logos around the inside waist of the pants or under the lapel.  For the price, I'm not concerned, and other than those few details, it's well made with the same hand stitching, surgeon's cuffs, etc. that one would expect.  It's comfortable and moves well, and the material is soft.  Most importantly, it fits nicely.  The armholes are a bit higher than the norm, but not quite as high as I'd prefer.


Edited by jeffd - 8/17/13 at 10:01am
post #47 of 54
So I just bought this suit:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261268683696?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

and I'm beginning to have doubts. That label model doesn't really go with any of the other Base "S"s that I have or have seen.

Can anyone ease my concerns?
post #48 of 54
It's real. The 'Base Sand' pops up once in a while. It's a saks exclusive model. More info here:

http://www.styleforum.net/t/344131/isaia-made-saks-fifth-suits
post #49 of 54

I saw a comment on one of the Sierra Trading Post reviews which said that many of the Isaia suits they carry are made from leftover cloth from special orders.  Isaia makes the suits with plain linings and different tags to distinguish them from their regular line, then they sell these to STP, and perhaps others.  I wonder if there is any truth to that - it does match my experience with the suit above.

post #50 of 54
Appreciated. That answer was as definitive as it was concise.
post #51 of 54

Can anyone on here tell me the difference in fit between the Base S and "Reggia"

post #52 of 54
FWIW, about 90+% of my tailored clothing is Isaia. I have close to a 10" drop and it is the one brand that really works for me with minimal alterations. I have been wearing it almost exclusively for the last decade or so, own almost all of the models below and/or have tried on the others over the years.

Here's a few thoughts:

- Tagged sizing often makes no sense. I am a solid 54/EU (44/US) sizing and know my measurements well, yet I have 52s, 54s, and 56s all with close to, or exactly the same, measurements (19.5/.75 shoulders and 22.5/23" chest) - go figure

- Stewart (black label) was a mainline offering for a number of years. 3/2-buton styling with a slight roll and lightly padded and sloping shoulders. Suits can come with either flat or pleated pants. A bit of waist suppression can really open up the front quarters - I love this in a sports coat. Ton of these floating around used.

- Base S (black and red label) lives on in a couple of versions. I have some older ones that are gorgeous - very soft, rounded shoulders in a 2/3 roll setup with a longer skirt. The newer Base S (red label) has a bit more structure and light padding in the shoulders, the skirt is noticeably shorter, and I've only seen 2 button setups. The body is a bit slimmer than the older models and the chest is a bit cleaner.

Note: Even though Isaia went through a period with an alphabet soup of model names, the Base S and the Stewart appear to be their most common offerings in the US before they went to the red label. There was also a Vincent (precursor to Base V) but didn't seems widely distributed. My sense is that some of the oddly named black label models were either for specific retailers (e.g. Louis - RIP - had their own model) or for the Euro market.

- Scott (black label) is an older model and may be my favorite. The shoulders are insanely soft, sloped, and have minimal padding. This is a two button set up and vaired between flapped and patch pockets. I have a few of these in SCs and a suit or two - like wearing PJs to the office!

- Sorre (black label) Another 3/2 roll setup with a shoulder that sits slightly above the Stewart in terms of padding - it's plenty soft, but there is enough structure to present a clean chest

- Base V (black and red label) This is a tad slimmer that the ones above in the body, but nothing radical. Typical 3/2 roll but biggest difference is that it has subtle roping at the shoulders that none of my other models have. Narrower, cleaner chest. I prefer a softer, rounder look with a bit of drape so only have one of these, but it's in an incredibly sweet Solaro for summer. The new Base Vs seem much slimmer with narrower shoulder/chest.

- Cliff (black label) Two button setup with more padding than the Stewart. Button stance is low for an Isaia. May be wrong, but I think this an older model that emerged somewhere after they killed the top end Enrico line and really began focusing on the Stewart/Base S direction…at least for US market.

- Dustin (red label) I love this cut, but the sizing is for children. No pads, killer shoulder, patch pockets, but the skirt is generally 2-3" shorter than any of the other models above and it is cut very, very slim. I've tried on 54s and 56s and they aren't even close to fitting in almost every direction. I think I'd have to size up to a 58 or a 60 to come close to something might fit. Maybe.

- Rover (black label) Very neapolitan - probably the most of any Isaia I've owned. Unpadded, rounded shoulders, 3/2 roll, often found with patch pockets.

- Gregory (red label) Newer, very soft shoulder setup with minimal padding. Have seen these but haven't found on in my size to try on.

- Trent (Black label) Soft shoulder in a 3/2 roll. Bit softer than the Stewart if I recall correctly. OIder model.

It appears that there have been a number of newer red label models popping up in the last year with names I'm not familiar with and a new push in the direction of double-breasted rigs, but I can't comment on them.

Hope this helps, but please feel free to correct or amend base on your experience.
Edited by Spark - 2/4/15 at 4:57pm
post #53 of 54

I have two suits from Isaia, and a bunch of Loro Piana suits which were made by Isaia. 

 

Base Vincent (black label) 

3-roll-2, classic button-stance 

Roped shoulders, light padding 

Slim-ish cut, I'm usually a 50EU, this one was 52. 

Normal length jacket 

Classic sized lapels 

Normal FF trousers 

 

Base Gregory (red label) 

3-roll-2, slightly higher button-stance than the Vincent 

Narrow Roped shoulders, light padding 

Very slim cut. This one is a 52, which is running very slim on me. A 54 also worked for me. 

Shorter jacket 

Slimmer lapels 

Very slim FF Trousers. My 52 came with a 7.5" leg opening. 

 

The Gregory is almost identical to the Ermenegildo Zegna "Torrino" fit. I'd go one size up, if buying online. 

 

Loro Piana by Isaia "Pigi G" 

 

3-roll-2, classic button-stance 

Roped shoulders, light padding 

Normal cut and length 

Classic sized lapels, slightly lower gorge 

Fully cut pleated trousers(Think Brooks Brothers and HF Madison)  

 

In general very conservative work suits. I see them from time to time on Ebay, and they're always in either nailhead navy or navy blue pinstripe. I've never seen any other colors, and I have LP suits that range from 15 years old to brand new 2014 models. 

post #54 of 54
I can add two more to the list above:

Maxim: (black label) I just found one of these in a beautiful fresco. Unlined, 3/2 roll, zero padding, patch pockets, fairly open quarters, killer drape - truly badass. I have it in a sports coat and am unsure if it ever came in a suit.

Sirio (Black & Enrico label) This one's a total curveball. I just bought it as new/old deadstock with all hang tags intact in a 120s+ mid-blue birdseye fabric that shimmers, but it is quite different from any other Isaia model I own or have seen. The brand label inside is in black, but the hang tag reads "ENRICO" in the traditional green background with the yellow frame that was the label for the top of the line, handmade models up until right around 2004 or so. It is a rolling 3/2 button set up, but the lapels are a bit higher and wider than what I am used to - they are also very clearly hand padded as they seem to "float" above the chest and have a dimensionally that I haven't quite seen in any RTW no matter how good. The shoulder is light, but the padding is a bit more structured and there is subtle roping (rollino) that also has the spalla camica shirring - I've never seen both in one shoulder! I compared the shoulder to some other models as it initially felt a bit "stiffer" but the padding was actually relatively thin yet the design makes for a very clean chest.. I'm not sure how they do that. Jacket pockets are also jetted (besom) which is something else I hadn't seen before (always either flapped or patch) and the buttonholes are very clearly done by hand in a blue that is a shade or two lighter than suit suit as a unique detail.

Basically handwork all over town on this rig and I'm feeling like this was the kind of garment that Isaia made its name on back in the day. I won't say it is "handmade" because, honestly, I don't know and it was sold as RTW, but it sure looks like it. The Enrico models I have seen had slightly more structure in the shoulder and more roping ( bit more formal suiting) with tons of handwork, so I have no idea what this really is, but man do I like it!
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