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High gorge

post #1 of 38
Thread Starter 
I have noticed a preference for a high gorge here and I have to wonder: is this something that is going to look dumb to us in ten years, like the low button stance/ low gorge jackets of the 80s now look outdated? I realize it's something most people don't even consider, but I have to wonder if there is a timeless happy medium in gorge height as there seems to be in almost everything else that changes with fashion (lapel width, trouser width, button stance, etc). Opinions?
post #2 of 38
low gorge, high gorge...hmm....
post #3 of 38
Timeless, without question.  Or at any rate, very long lived. Look at it this way.  Every era has an "ideal" body shape.  At times that ideal has been short and stocky.  From time to time, fat (known euphemistically as the "well fed look") is in.  For the past 100 years or so -- to be safe, let's say 80 -- the ideal body shape has been tall and slim.  Not fair, but this is fundamentally a matter of "fashion" in the most arbitrary and irrational sense of that term, so "fair" is not really an issue. The suits we wear today are designed either to flatter or project (or both) this ideal body shape.  The high gorge helps elongate the silhouette.  It gives an illusion, however slight, of "tall." Everything in proportion, of course.  Someone 6'6" does not want a gorge at his collarbone.  But for almost everyone else, the high gorge works.
post #4 of 38
I personally think that "timeless" generally translates into boring and conservative. The best way to make sure that your suit isn't dated in 5 years is to choose the least distinctive cut and the most conventional details possible. For example, these days, ticket pockets and all things English are fashionable, but even though they are "traditional", and "timeless" in the sense that they were around long before BR made jackets with them in 2004, they will seem dated in 10 years or less, just as the power suits of the 80s and the minimalistic suits of the mid-nineties, even the most conservative, seem dated today. Even then, you are bound to look dated at some point because there continue to be technological advances.
post #5 of 38
low gorge, high gorge...hmm....
? Jon.
post #6 of 38
LA Guy: Haven't you ever seen a picture from decades ago of a guy in a perfectly cut jacket and thought "Timeless.", or at least, "I could wear that"? (Honest question, not meant as flame-bait. You should already know by now that compared to you, I am a fuddy-duddy.)
post #7 of 38
Elements or nuances of certain styles may remain timeless. This does not mean that the clothes we end buying will themselves remain timeless. I find that the actual clothes I choose to own will in some way be dated in a few years. Even the most conventional Brooks Brothers suits I bought right out of college would look dated today. Fabrics change, colors shift, shapes evolve, tastes mature. Is it really possible to enjoy a suit for much more than 5 years?
post #8 of 38
I am striving towards having a look that will keep for the rest of my life. whether I will succeed or not, who knows? I have been wearing ticket pockets for almost 10 years, my suits still have the same basic cut as the first set of suits I had made 10 or 12 years ago, my colors have stayed the same for 7 years or so, and I am slowly weeding out a lot of parts of my wardrobe that don't fit a certain look. Possibly boring, but steady, and I do not at any time expect to look at picture of me and laugh at the fashion sense (not counting my 6th grade school picture in disco fashion).
post #9 of 38
Is it really possible to enjoy a suit for much more than 5 years?
Sure. I have several suits older than that. I believe their cut, styling, colors, cloths and patterns are timeless, or at least very long lived. I am a reactionary, I guess. I believe there is an aethetics to the suit that has its own internal logic. Get that logic right, and the suit looks good. Get it wrong, and it looks bad. The aesthetics of the suit are themselves irrational. Someday the suit will die, just as the frock coat died, just as doublets and hose died. It will die for reasons that are part historical, part practical, and part fashion. Until it dies, its internal logic will remain essentially the same.
post #10 of 38
Thread Starter 
Ideally I would have a new wardrobe made every season. However, that is not likely ever to be a possibility. So when I do choose a suit, I want to be sure it is something with no extreme details on it. In my opinion, a well-fitting, classic suit will always look good, no matter what the current fashion. Shirts and ties are cheap(er) and they can provide the up-to-the-minuteness of a look, if desired. But a suit should be chosen to look good for as long as it's likely to fit, in my opinion. My question was raised by looking at that red Oxxford jacket someone posted a link to, and thinking that the gorge looked quite high, about as high as it could possibly go. I'll have to look at some other Oxxfords to compare, but I just thought it might represent an extreme that would obviously date a suit.
post #11 of 38
LA Guy: Haven't you ever seen a picture from decades ago of a guy in a perfectly cut jacket and thought "Timeless.", or at least, "I could wear that"? (Honest question, not meant as flame-bait. You should already know by now that compared to you, I am a fuddy-duddy.)
I've looked at old archived pictures and thought: "Cool look" and thought of how it could be translated into something wearable today, in modern fabrics and taking into account modern sensibilities. But even a dinner suit becomes dated. Even the finest classic tuxedo from the 70s looks stiff and heavy compared to the super 150s marvels that you can find today.
post #12 of 38
I suspect that I own several suits today which I will stop wearing in another couple of years when they bore me, and then rediscover in another fifteen or twenty.
post #13 of 38
aside from having learned a little, the style of shirts, suits and shoes that I bought at age 22 is the same as it is today at 37. the quality is better, and I have stopped wearing button down shirts and flashy ties and have taken up braces, working sleeve bottons, ticket pockets and a few other things, I have shifted my various pockets around as I get to know what I like. But the fabric colors and patterns, the basic cuts of the suits, shirts and shoes (not to mention the underwear and socks) have stayed the same. I honestly can't imagine them changing in the coming 30 years. I am aiming at having the same clothing in better quality, not more or different clothing. At 30, I rotated maybe 50 ties. Now I rotate less than 20. My aim is to have less than 10 perfect ties to last me from age 45 or so till I die. that, anyway, is my ideal.
post #14 of 38
How much better can fabrics get? Most suits in classic cuts look dated because of the fabrics being poor quality. But nowadays, how much better can fabric get while still being practical. IMO, Super 150s is about as fine as you should get for a normal suit (with Super 160s+ reserved for special occasion suits). So, if I get a class cut in a classic color in a Super 120s by a great mill, I don't see that suit ever being dated - maybe it won't be the "latest in fashion trend," but certainly not dated.
post #15 of 38
Would this be considered an high gorge?
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