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What stereo(s) do you listen to? What do you want? - Page 123

post #1831 of 2374
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post
Thanks A Y I will definitely get some stuff from the site. Right now I have pretty butchered speakerwire from Best Buy. It was the only stuff that wasn't like $200 for like 6 feet of it. The optical cables literally cost me about $1.50 each.

I'm not trying to say that cables don't matter, but you can get 100 percent of a cable's function without spending exorbitant amounts of money. For example, you can find the recommended speaker cable at a hardware store, but you will have to take a little care to terminate them properly so they don't corrode over time and degrade your connection. 12 AWG is enough gauge for any reasonable speaker for cable lengths up to 50 feet. If your speakers aren't far away and have higher input impedance, then you can get away with a smaller diameter wire, but 12 gauge is a safe, all-around recommendation.

That's pretty cheap for optical cable (Toslink, I assume). Just make sure that when you bend them, do it gently and use really large-radius arcs: no sharp kinks! The BJC optical cables have pretty well-protected jacks, and their main benefit is durability.

--Andre
post #1832 of 2374
Quote:
Originally Posted by A Y View Post
I'm not trying to say that cables don't matter, but you can get 100 percent of a cable's function without spending exorbitant amounts of money. For example, you can find the recommended speaker cable at a hardware store, but you will have to take a little care to terminate them properly so they don't corrode over time and degrade your connection. 12 AWG is enough gauge for any reasonable speaker for cable lengths up to 50 feet. If your speakers aren't far away and have higher input impedance, then you can get away with a smaller diameter wire, but 12 gauge is a safe, all-around recommendation.

That's pretty cheap for optical cable (Toslink, I assume). Just make sure that when you bend them, do it gently and use really large-radius arcs: no sharp kinks! The BJC optical cables have pretty well-protected jacks, and their main benefit is durability.

--Andre

Thanks, I just bought all new wires on Blue Jean Cables. My terminations were total crap, and the gauge was very small. I figure it can't hurt to do it right just for a piece of mind. The toslink cables that I have are very flimsy. No sense in feeding a $2,000+ stereo with a crap signal.
post #1833 of 2374
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post
Can somebody shed some light on digital optical cables and speakerwire? I have seen both of these run for tons of money, but what do I really need? I have a Peachtree Audio Nova with matched speakers, however my optical cables and speakerwire are pretty cheap, am I losing a lot of fidelity? What should I be using? Thanks, guys.
Get the entry level Kimber Kable 8TC for the speakers. Optical cable is pretty cheap. I have had Blue Jeans and it sucks compared to good brands. For the system you have, you need to do it right.
post #1834 of 2374
Quote:
Originally Posted by Artisan Fan View Post
Get the entry level Kimber Kable 8TC for the speakers. Optical cable is pretty cheap.

I have had Blue Jeans and it sucks compared to good brands. For the system you have, you need to do it right.

This is bad advice all around.

8TC has very high capacitance, and is not appropriate for all systems. It's really meant for low-input impedance speakers that are a long distance from the amp. It trades off low resistance and low inductance for high capacitance. Traditional large diameter cables (which is how you get low resistance necessary for long runs) have high self-inductance which can roll off the highs. If you have a stable amp, high capacitance is not a problem, but some amps can become unstable with capacitative speaker cables, so 8TC is not a good universal recommendation.

BJC is higher quality or comparable to most any good brand, and is an appropriate cable for your system. Don't believe the hype.

--Andre
post #1835 of 2374
Quote:
Originally Posted by Please Respond View Post
I don't think I'm noticing any vibration in my playback. Is that something you will generally hear or is it faint? I do keep the needles weighted extremely heavy on the tone arm but it's okay because the serato records don't last that long anyway.

And I hate when I'm recording a set and someone starts dancing and there vibrations make the needle pop.

Quote:
Originally Posted by A Y View Post
In the dancing case, you need isolation, not coupling. Spikes (coupling) won't help, but some kind of sprung arrangement (isolation) might.

BTW, GQGeek, get a receiver with preouts while you're waiting for your surround preamp. They're cheap, and generally have all the latest features.

--Andre

Mopads, FTW.

http://www.amazon.com/Auralex-MOPAD-.../dp/B0002D0B4K

post #1836 of 2374
I've had the following for a while, and maybe because of the new house / maybe because of my progressing maturity (ahem), I'd like to mix things up. Yamaha RX-V995 A/V receiver (old enough to not know what HDMI is) Klipsch RF-82 fronts Klipsch RC-62 II center Klipsch KSW-12 sub (unmentionable) rears that came with the house, that probably need to be in-wall if I'm honest. I have always liked the Yamaha, which was an upgrade from a Harmon Kardon AVR-20 (old enough not to know what 5.1 was) that I also liked. The RX-V line had some of the strongest output sections for the money in terms of slew rate / damping factor. This one didn't have the Audyssey stuff but would let you adjust gain channel-by-channel using white noise and your ear. It's the only way I can tell there's a HUGE timbre difference between the center & fronts, and obviously the rears, which I don't like. I'd love to have the new Marantz SR-7005 or Yamaha RX-A3000 if they aren't junk, just to get the HDMI stuff sorted behind my TV. Too many cables. The stand I use for my TV is where I keep the RC-62, and what we didn't realize at the time was that while it fit on it's shelf, it is too big to clear the lip of the shelf above it. So I do not have those drivers 100% clear of furniture, and I think it very noticeably colors the sound. It's also low, and a coffee table does a good job of killing the highs. Combine all that with the fact that those horns are pretty directional, and it just doesn't work as well as I'd like it to. The fronts have always sounded great but I think familiarity breeds contempt, and I like just about anything else I hear more - even cheap stuff. The sub isn't complicated but it's dialed in pretty well, and when we need to blast out the squirrels & birds, it all does the job easily. I'd want to see what a modern room analyzer / EQ system such as the Audyssey could do with the speakers I already have. I did get to audition a Sunfire sub in my older house, complete with it's own adaptive room EQ, and while it shook a lot of glass it just didn't really sound all that great. No matter how I oriented it or adjusted the phase, etc., it was either silent or WAY too loud when it shouldn't have been. I was disappointed, because that KSW-12 is nothing special and that old house needed more than i could give it. This one has more tile in the family room and a much wider sound stage w/ a very effective corner, and it works great. I have heard Polk's, and wanted them as a kid but in person they're awfully bright. Everything by Infinity is off-the-charts bright to me, but they image better in my opinion (I'd still never buy them). We watch a lot of movies, listen to a lot of music from all sorts of genres - less classical than anything. I have done sound reinforcement stuff for nightclubs in the past and understand many of the principles of audio pretty well, but I haven't shopped for anything in a while - obviously - and hopefully that'll change next year. I play DVD's from an XBOX360, which we also use for Netflix. I have an older Pioneer 3-disc DVD player that I use for CD audio if not the XBOX, as both use optical digital outs to the Yamaha. Sometimes we connect an iPod, or a laptop to stream Pandora (w/ One subscription, it really does sound better). My wife had some old vinyl, and my grandpa left me a lot of 78's (some even on legit lacquer) with blues and jazz artists he loved, so we bought a simple turntable by Dual that does a pretty respectable job. I used Technics 1200's at a nightclub way back and we had quarters taped to the tone arm to keep it from bouncing - this one at home you could almost blow out of the groove with a feather, but it tracks well and really does sound great. It was cool to see Ben Folds release "Lonely Avenue" on a thick 12" platter last year, I hope more artists do so as well. I doubt we're buying B&W anytime soon but you never can tell. Would love feedback on things to try, stay away from, migrate towards, etc. from those of you who are in the shops more often.
post #1837 of 2374
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by A Y View Post
This is bad advice all around.

8TC has very high capacitance, and is not appropriate for all systems. It's really meant for low-input impedance speakers that are a long distance from the amp. It trades off low resistance and low inductance for high capacitance. Traditional large diameter cables (which is how you get low resistance necessary for long runs) have high self-inductance which can roll off the highs. If you have a stable amp, high capacitance is not a problem, but some amps can become unstable with capacitative speaker cables, so 8TC is not a good universal recommendation.

BJC is higher quality or comparable to most any good brand, and is an appropriate cable for your system. Don't believe the hype.

--Andre

This is horrible advice and members here would be well advised to ignore it.

Kimber 8TC has never sounded bad in any system I have tried it in and BJC is terrible quality cable that has never sounded good in any system I have heard it in.
post #1838 of 2374
Thread Starter 
Recently The Absolute Sound named 8TC as one of the 18 greatest bargains in high end audio. http://www.avguide.com/article/the-1...tas-197?page=1
Quote:
10. Kimber Kable 4TC/8TC speaker cable ($268/$400) and Hero interconnect ($200) Yielding only a tiny bit in control, top-end transparency, and detailing to PS’s reference, Hero’s bass lives up to its name, prodigious in amplitude and definition. Dead neutral, with dynamics at once powerful yet finely resolved in an essentially grain-free presentation. The 8TC speaker cable has that elusive ability to remain musical no matter what is happening fore or aft, ideally mediating detail, liveliness, tonal neutrality, and dynamic contrasts within a very realistic, holographic soundstage. (Reviewed in TAS 138, 146) www.kimberkable.com
post #1839 of 2374
Quote:
Originally Posted by Artisan Fan View Post
This is horrible advice and members here would be well advised to ignore it.

Kimber 8TC has never sounded bad in any system I have tried it in and BJC is terrible quality cable that has never sounded good in any system I have heard it in.

LOL. Repeating something doesn't make it true. Logical fallacies don't help either.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Artisan Fan View Post
Recently The Absolute Sound named 8TC as one of the 18 greatest bargains in high end audio.

http://www.avguide.com/article/the-1...tas-197?page=1

That is a ridiculous source, and $31/foot is hardly a bargain especially when the the cited evidence is just a string of audiophile reviewer jizz.

The validity of their advice is also questionable, since they also say Hero is a good interconnect, where it is one of the worst interconnects one can ever use. Its construction is pretty retarded: two loosely twisted wires with no shield. It cannot even competently perform one of the main functions of an interconnect: to get the signal from one component to another without contamination from outside noise. Its performance is pretty terrible and has been easily beat by random cables from Radio Shack in my experience.

Compare this to the BJC stereo interconnect which has a full shield and low capacitance (an important property for interconnects that is often at odds with having a full shield), and an airtight 360-degree termination of the shield at the RCA. That means there is no gap in the shield throughout the entire cable. Unlike Hero, I have never had to futz around with the positioning of a BJC cable to get it to perform even acceptably well.

--Andre
post #1840 of 2374
I'm picking these up. These are unreal... Listening to Diana Krall, and it sounds like she's standing in front of me.
post #1841 of 2374
Any recommendations on a receiver to pair with an Oppo 93 and a set of Vienna Beethoven Concert Grands/Maestro Grand? My wife has done all the research and is thinking about a Denon 5308CI. Is there anything else we'd need in order to play SACDs and the occasional Blu-Ray? Thanks in advance.
post #1842 of 2374
Still weighing this turn table purchase in my head. Does anyone have anything to say about the Pro-ject debut III vs. Rega RP1? They're both getting good reviews all around (relatively speaking, in terms of value for the price) but the Pro-ject is cheaper (I'd want to put the roughly $100 difference towards the phono preamp).
post #1843 of 2374
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by migo View Post
Still weighing this turn table purchase in my head. Does anyone have anything to say about the Pro-ject debut III vs. Rega RP1? They're both getting good reviews all around (relatively speaking, in terms of value for the price) but the Pro-ject is cheaper (I'd want to put the roughly $100 difference towards the phono preamp).

In my experience, the Rega is far better sounding. The Debut III has lots of issues including a poor arm.
post #1844 of 2374
Quote:
Originally Posted by jakejake View Post
I'm picking these up.


These are unreal... Listening to Diana Krall, and it sounds like she's standing in front of me.

Lucky fellow.

Legendary. Pair carefully.
post #1845 of 2374
Quote:
Originally Posted by migo View Post

Still weighing this turn table purchase in my head. Does anyone have anything to say about the Pro-ject debut III vs. Rega RP1? They're both getting good reviews all around (relatively speaking, in terms of value for the price) but the Pro-ject is cheaper (I'd want to put the roughly $100 difference towards the phono preamp).

if you can make it work i would say hold out for the P3. components used make it a world apart from the RP1
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