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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 637

post #9541 of 11416
Quote:
Originally Posted by Odd I/O View Post

Thanks for the reply Despos.

I am a bit hippy. Hip measurement is close to 38 inches. And single pleats and two inch cuffs are my personal preference. So I guess it's safer to go with 2m?

If the cloth is worsted type, I still think 1.5m is enough except your total pant length is over 43 inches. On the safe side, 1.7m is good enough.
post #9542 of 11416
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Odd I/O View Post

About 5'11" and between 160 -170 lbs. Waist is about 32
Unfortunately I'm between tailors at the moment so hoping some of you here can help me out in terms of how much fabric I'd need for a pair of pants.

You want more than 1.5m but probably not more than 2m.

Hip measure is more important than waist. That is the widest area and determines how the pattern will be laid onto the cloth. If you get pleats you need more cloth than for plain front as you need more width for the top of the front panel and need to move the pattern to accommodate this. Cuffs will require a bit more length than plain bottom.

Some cloths require you lay the pattern pieces in one direction and not reverse the direction of the two pieces. Could be due to a pattern in the cloth or the weave. If it is a one way cloth and you reverse the pattern pieces you will see uneven coloration of the cloth. This may require extra cloth to cut in one direction. Some tailors are insistent about this and some are careless regarding this. You are better off getting extra cloth than not enough cloth and the cut becomes useless for you.

 

Hello. Despos.  I just thought big pattern is the only one which I need extra length.   So in case of barley corn as shown in Gold Finger Tweed, would I need extra length to make a jacket?  It looks a kind of directional to me. 

post #9543 of 11416
I am 6 feet tall, 36 inch waist and get French pleats (forward) and cuffs. My trousermaker ask for 160cm of regular width fabric and 170cm if patterned. My tailor, for suit, will squeeze it in with 3.3m for a 2 piece suit.
post #9544 of 11416
48 yards of Madras from these guys. Will be turned into shirts sooner or later this year. smile.gif

post #9545 of 11416

I've seen Fox sometimes refer to a weave that looks like a small-scale, less extruded diamond twill as "pheasant's eye." Any idea what the heck this is?

post #9546 of 11416
Quote:
Originally Posted by hirschlederne View Post

48 yards of Madras from these guys. Will be turned into shirts sooner or later this year. smile.gif

I just ordered a bunch of some like that, and snagged some bleeding stuff off eBay. So Ascot Chang will have a little work to do between now and the end of June.
post #9547 of 11416

I thought those required a group order -- or is that not the case?

post #9548 of 11416
Y'all hating on Solaro but just willfully purchasing multiple lengths of bleeding madras?

satisfied.gif
post #9549 of 11416
Quote:
Originally Posted by sprout2 View Post

I thought those required a group order -- or is that not the case?
There are minimums-- different levels depending on whether they can serve you from the US or if they have to order from India. But it's not expensive cloth. Even taking hugely conservative lengths to cover the pattern and breast pocket, shipping, and duty, it's about $35/shirt.
post #9550 of 11416
can anyone recommend a fabric book where I can find a worsted version of a brown houndstooth (heavier weight) like the one in the picture?

img_0956.JPG
post #9551 of 11416
I think the Dugdale English Classics has a brown houndstooth, but it is slightly lighter. If you're looking for jacketings, you may also want to check out the Holland and Sherry jacketing books.
post #9552 of 11416
Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerC View Post

I think the Dugdale English Classics has a brown houndstooth, but it is slightly lighter. If you're looking for jacketings, you may also want to check out the Holland and Sherry jacketing books.

I prefer Dugdale because it is only GBP 29.19 per meter exclude shipping, super value to me at this quality.
post #9553 of 11416
Thanks guys, but the Dugdale is brown and cream as opposed to brown and black

Dugdale swatch:

9465_THUMB.jpg


I'm hoping for something darker, like this:

img_0956.JPG1


Dugdale's is more like this:

img_7510.JPG
post #9554 of 11416
GOLDFINGER TWEED UPDATE, APRIL 10

I have a price for the tweed in option 1a (Larger scale pictured in swatch image, 450 grams (15.9 oz)

It will run $33.50 per meter, plus shipping from the UK

We are definitely doing an order for 1a.

If there's sufficient interest, we can also do a smaller scale barleycorn cloth. But we're filling up the 1a order first since that's what @gdl203 and @Despos are interested in. They're both interested in 10 meters

1a) Larger scale pictured in swatch image, 450 grams (15.9 oz) $33.50 per meter -- EXCELLENT price
1b) Larger scale pictured in swatch image, 18 oz

2a) Smaller scale ala Connery's jacket, 450 grams (15.9 oz)
2b) Smaller scale ala Connery's jacket, 18 oz

Quote:

Larger Scale Example:
IMG_2063_zps0ffd7a7f.jpg
2lc5htt.jpg


Smaller Scale Expected Example (Connery):

34s5b2a.jpg
e7ywkh.jpg

Edited by jrd617 - 4/10/14 at 8:37am
post #9555 of 11416
Quote:
Originally Posted by kulata View Post

Does anybody know where I can buy this fabric(jacket)?
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

That is Mark Cho from The Armoury wearing his Liverano jacket. Someone else on the forum was trying to source this fabric I forgot who it was. He even send an email to The Armoury but the reply was the fabric is no longer available. It's a summer weight jacket it may have been from one of the Drapers book.
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