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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 606

post #9076 of 12536
Quote:
Originally Posted by venividivicibj View Post

Thanks for the responses about the fox swatches, if anyone has the 'midnight Birdseye jacketing', 'POW jacketing', or the 'classic navy chalk stripe flannel' please let me know .

Don't have any of those, sorry.
post #9077 of 12536
Hi

I'm looking for a fabric for a summer sports coat in a light colour. I've had success with Minnis Fresco in the past, but this time I was thinking of predominantly linen, but with a bit of either wool or silk woven in to hopefully limit creasing slightly. Alternatively, I've noticed with OTR trousers that linen in a twill weave seems a bit more crease resistant than the usual plain weave linen. I know that creasing is part of the charm of linen, but I am nonetheless keen to experiment with a blend.

I tend to buy from Huddersfield Fine Worsted (Minnis, Hardy) and then sent the fabric to my tailor, but they don't seem to have any linen-based blends, or pure linen in a twill weave. I couldn't see anything from Harrison either. Can anyone suggest a source or book with such a fabric, ideally one that sells to the general public?

Many thanks

Brendon
post #9078 of 12536
Harrisons has a new book-- Mirage. Wool/silk/linen, with a lot of different patterns. Not on their website yet, but if you Google around you might see some things on Facebook or elsewhere.
post #9079 of 12536

Has anyone used Fox's navy serge cloth and been happy with the results? It has a nice plump hand on the swatch, but I thought I would ask before going ahead... It seems serge does not get talked about much here, with most posters preferring hopsack and lighter navies when it comes to blazers. 

post #9080 of 12536
Quote:
Originally Posted by sprout2 View Post

Has anyone used Fox's navy serge cloth and been happy with the results? It has a nice plump hand on the swatch, but I thought I would ask before going ahead... It seems serge does not get talked about much here, with most posters preferring hopsack and lighter navies when it comes to blazers. 

I was looking at that one last night. Isn't it midnight blue rather than a navy?

http://www.themerchantfox.co.uk/prod/301/jacketing/fox-midnight-serge-jacketing
post #9081 of 12536

You are absolutely right. Sorry, in my heart of hearts, midnight blue is the only blue.

post #9082 of 12536
Quote:
Originally Posted by Concordia View Post

Harrisons has a new book-- Mirage. Wool/silk/linen, with a lot of different patterns. Not on their website yet, but if you Google around you might see some things on Facebook or elsewhere.

On dream bespoke's facebook page, there are jacket pics on there with that cloth
post #9083 of 12536
Quote:
Originally Posted by Concordia View Post

Harrisons has a new book-- Mirage. Wool/silk/linen, with a lot of different patterns. Not on their website yet, but if you Google around you might see some things on Facebook or elsewhere.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by borbor View Post


On dream bespoke's facebook page, there are jacket pics on there with that cloth

 

I have the whole swatch book. Let me know if you want pictures of of any designs in particular.

 

Have a look at Cacciopolli; their wool/silk/linen combo's are made by Loro Piana. Some lovely designs too. Again, let me know if you want to see it. They also have Solaro Cotton. Im getting some Airo cotton for pants:

 

 

 

The new Harrisons Mystique book has come out. What do you guys think of this:

 

 

 

Barbera also has a nice jacketing book. 

post #9084 of 12536

that Mystique looks a lot like a suit pattern.

post #9085 of 12536
A sideline on CMT for shirts---for whatever reason, Ascot Chang's shirts can get very expensive at the high end. For example, a DJ Anderson cotton/linen (really nice, BTW, and exclusive to them) runs close to $400. Loro Piana goes even higher without too much effort. I don't know if that is a distributor thing, a HK tax thing, or just their way of having their best customers pay the bills.

Anyway I just sent a few things to them from Acorn and Bonfanti-- neither of which AC carries-- ordered off their respective websites. The Acorn would run generally from $40 to $90 at the very high end per shirt, allowing for about 2.5m/shirt (or 3.5m of the 90cm stuff). Bonfanti starts at around $80 and goes up to around $140 for the same amounts.

Ascot Chang's CMT rate is $110 flat.
post #9086 of 12536
I assume that's the HK CMT price?
post #9087 of 12536
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grammaton Cleric View Post

I assume that's the HK CMT price?
$USD. But yes, I deal with a HK branch.
post #9088 of 12536
Not sure if this has been posted yet -- apologies in advance if it has -- but I thought some people here might be interested in Simon Crompton's interview with Mark Dunsford, where they talk about Harrisons acquiring W Bill

http://www.permanentstyle.co.uk/2014/03/w-bill-and-smiths-sold-mark-dunsford-interview.html#.Ux6kjuddUmU
Edited by dieworkwear - 3/11/14 at 8:25am
post #9089 of 12536
Quote:
Originally Posted by Concordia View Post

A sideline on CMT for shirts---for whatever reason, Ascot Chang's shirts can get very expensive at the high end. For example, a DJ Anderson cotton/linen (really nice, BTW, and exclusive to them) runs close to $400. Loro Piana goes even higher without too much effort. I don't know if that is a distributor thing, a HK tax thing, or just their way of having their best customers pay the bills.

Anyway I just sent a few things to them from Acorn and Bonfanti-- neither of which AC carries-- ordered off their respective websites. The Acorn would run generally from $40 to $90 at the very high end per shirt, allowing for about 2.5m/shirt (or 3.5m of the 90cm stuff). Bonfanti starts at around $80 and goes up to around $140 for the same amounts.

Ascot Chang's CMT rate is $110 flat.

Is this for MTM shirts? What is the best way to get measured short of going to HK?
post #9090 of 12536
Quote:
Originally Posted by forex View Post

Is this for MTM shirts? What is the best way to get measured short of going to HK?

I'm guessing you need to go to HK - the NYC / LA Ascot Chang stores charge $210 for CMT.
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