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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 603

post #9031 of 11429
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post

Also, according to wiki, Moxon does mainly "silly" expensive cloth (18 ct gold stripe etc.) for oil sheikhs, etc. Not really the practical stuff SFers like.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post

Also, according to wiki, Moxon does mainly "silly" expensive cloth (18 ct gold stripe etc.) for oil sheikhs, etc. Not really the practical stuff SFers like.

Nice wiki search - not sure why you're keen to start a pissing match here.

FWIW, Moxon also has a (great) rebadged Loro Piana book that many UK tailors have. Priced similarly to cloth from Lesser etc. That is the one I was referring too.

Dopey - Butt of Lewis' quality is excellent (I have two of their Harris tweeds made up) - I think JRD was referring to the scale of the operation.
post #9032 of 11429
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grammaton Cleric View Post


Nice wiki search - not sure why you're keen to start a pissing match here.

FWIW, Moxon also has a (great) rebadged Loro Piana book that many UK tailors have. Priced similarly to cloth from Lesser etc. That is the one I was referring too.

Dopey - Butt of Lewis' quality is excellent (I have two of their Harris tweeds made up) - I think JRD was referring to the scale of the operation.

Im not trying to start a pissing match here.

I made the list for my own CMT fabric searches, and intentially dropped Moxon because they don't have stuff that I'm interested in. I literally pasted the existing list I had.

As you said, I'm focusing on the big, trustworthy mills here
post #9033 of 11429
Why you guys think Burley is a untrustworthy brand? I have a few of their flannels and semi milled worsted and is quiet happy with it.....

Is there any range you will put a warning flag? I am considering to get their tonik mohair at some point...or should I just stick to the more expensive Dormeuil?
post #9034 of 11429
Can anyone recommend a "bombproof" birdseye fabric like the one JefferyD talked about in this post?

Probably a lot of them out there, just curious

http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/search/label/Super%20150s
Quote:
5421906406_5398bd9590.jpg

The next suit to be dissected is an old bespoke number; made back in 1992, it has clearly been worn. Hard.

the owner wore right through the knee lining.

5421905786_c376ab8950.jpg

That's right, Super 150s.

One of the common myths among the iGentry is that cloths of high super-numbers (which is an indication of how fine the fibers that were used to weave the cloth are, measured in microns) are too fragile and won't hold up to wear. While some cloths (notably Italian cloth) are made up with the intent of being very fine, soft and lightweight, and thus are more fragile, it is not necessarily true that all cloths bearing high super-numbers will be fragile. This garment being a fine example (in every respect).

So when evaluating the merits of a particular cloth, please do not fall into the ill-informed trap of dismissing a cloth merely because it is made up from super-fine yarns and must, therefore, be too fragile; let your tailor, who knows how various types of cloth handle and perform, guide you instead./quote]
post #9035 of 11429
Lesser 16oz, 13oz, and smiths steadfast are all solid "bombproof" cloth that offer very nice birdseyes that have a very "neat" pattern, the lumbs gb is very nice and has soft hand, but not as tough as the lesser 16 or 13
post #9036 of 11429
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post

Im not trying to start a pissing match here.

I made the list for my own CMT fabric searches, and intentially dropped Moxon because they don't have stuff that I'm interested in. I literally pasted the existing list I had.

As you said, I'm focusing on the big, trustworthy mills here

Most of the companies mentioned above are merchants not mills, e.g.Harrison's of Edinburgh, Harrison's (Burley), although some like Scabal own mills that are used for some of their production. Notwithstanding your Wiki quote, Moxon, which operates a mill that also weaves Hield's fabrics, produces some of the best fabric I have ever used. It's just hard to get and very expensive. For those who are interested, however, there are several lengths of 6 ply 120's and cashmere in a silver/ Gray pattern for sale at a reasonable price on eBay uk. It's a fantastic cloth. It is very heavy at over 500 grams per meter and has real guts but has a soft hand.
post #9037 of 11429
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grammaton Cleric View Post


Nice wiki search - not sure why you're keen to start a pissing match here.

FWIW, Moxon also has a (great) rebadged Loro Piana book that many UK tailors have. Priced similarly to cloth from Lesser etc. That is the one I was referring too.

Dopey - Butt of Lewis' quality is excellent (I have two of their Harris tweeds made up) - I think JRD was referring to the scale of the operation.

Are you sure that Moxon is selling Lori Piana fabrics under its own name? My understanding is that Moxon produces all of its own fabric.
post #9038 of 11429
^ Thanks guys
post #9039 of 11429
Here's my Italian list. What can I add?

(Again, I don't distinguish between mills/merchants)



• Cacciopoli
• Carlo Barbera / Kiton
• Carnet
• Drapers
• Kemp and Hewitt (UK distributor)
○ Ariston
○ Zegna
○ Escorial
• Loro Piana
• Marzotto
post #9040 of 11429
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

Why you guys think Burley is a untrustworthy brand? I have a few of their flannels and semi milled worsted and is quiet happy with it.....

Is there any range you will put a warning flag? I am considering to get their tonik mohair at some point...or should I just stick to the more expensive Dormeuil?

If you are interested in mohair, you should consider Halstead, which produces mohair fabrics for many of the big names.
post #9041 of 11429
Quote:
Originally Posted by etkl View Post

If you are interested in mohair, you should consider Halstead, which produces mohair fabrics for many of the big names.

I notice you can't see their inventory online. Too bad.

What merchants do they make for?
post #9042 of 11429
Among others, Scabal, Gorina and Lesser, when Lesser was selling mohair fabrics
post #9043 of 11429
Quote:
Originally Posted by etkl View Post

Are you sure that Moxon is selling Lori Piana fabrics under its own name? My understanding is that Moxon produces all of its own fabric.
Sounds strange to me also because Moxon try to compete with Loro Piana at auctions where the highest micron merino wool is sold
post #9044 of 11429
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post

Here's my Italian list. What can I add?

(Again, I don't distinguish between mills/merchants)



• Cacciopoli
• Carlo Barbera / Kiton
• Carnet
• Drapers
• Kemp and Hewitt (UK distributor)
○ Ariston
○ Zegna
○ Escorial
• Loro Piana
• Marzotto

In terms of merchant/mill offering, both Arsiton and Drapers offer some of Carlo Barbera fabrics in their bunches.

Caccioppoli offers Guabello fabrics (Marzotto group) as well as VBC, Loro Piana, Solbiati etc
post #9045 of 11429
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

Interesting article about the Smiths Woolen buyout. I had no idea that Lesser was spiraling down because they weren't selling and thus couldn't buy more stock.

http://www.permanentstyle.co.uk/2014/03/w-bill-and-smiths-sold-mark-dunsford-interview.html
To what is he referring at the end where he says something about the Loro Piana sale?
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