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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 594

post #8896 of 11665
If you want a navy hopsack go with the one in the lesser 16oz book if it is still in stock, or something from the smiths steadfast book.
post #8897 of 11665
Yes, as soon as I read your post my thought was "I've definitely read things in this thread pointing people to the Lesser 16oz". I'd forgotten about it, but you triggered my memory.

Took a look on the Harrisons website, and from the photo (for what that's worth), I think I do really like it.

Fun part now will be getting my hands on it. Fairly sure my tailor doesn't have it, and previously I've always just picked from the books. Never done the whole "Buy my own cloth" thing.
post #8898 of 11665
Quote:
Originally Posted by smc View Post

Anyone seen/have a picture of the Hardy Minnis Alsport 2414? Supposed to be a dark blue hopsack.

Looking at the Huddersfield website, I think the wrong image is up. The photo looks, well, not blue at all.

It's also 590g. That's, what, 20oz? Not entirely sure I'm up for something that heavy. Curious to hear anything about it.

Are you making a jacket or a suit? For jacketing, the last sample in the Bingley formal wear book has a 12 ounce hopsack that is very dense. Haven't seen anything like it in any other books. It's soft but tough. Kind of unique to other cloths around today. Making two of them up at present.
post #8899 of 11665
Quote:
Originally Posted by smc View Post

Yes, as soon as I read your post my thought was "I've definitely read things in this thread pointing people to the Lesser 16oz". I'd forgotten about it, but you triggered my memory.

I recently had a suit made up in a Lesser 16oz hopsack, partly from recommendations from Chris; if you want to see it you can PM me.

Chris, unrelated question, but I asked my tailor to see the canvas he's been using on my suits and it was all a pretty limp hymo with little spring, which I think explains the limpness in my fronts. I recently ordered some haircloth (horsehair tail I assume since it was narrow width and expensive) from Dugdale that is much springier and makes a big arc when folded over. Could haircloth be used for ALL the canvassing to get an extra robust, clean look like in Jeffery D's coats? My tailor said he'd be happy to use it in place of his hymo. Or is it just meant for the chest?
post #8900 of 11665
Can't imagine using horsehair as canvass. If you want to experiment there are multiple weights and firmness of hymo. Ask your tailor if he has a sample book of them. You can also use linen but it is more supple than crisp. I think you are wanting the canvass to be more crisp. Something that creates more vivid shape? Might be the way he cuts and prepares the canvass is the problem.

Am I the Chris you are referring to?
post #8901 of 11665
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

Can't imagine using horsehair as canvass. If you want to experiment there are multiple weights and firmness of hymo. Ask your tailor if he has a sample book of them. You can also use linen but it is more supple than crisp. I think you are wanting the canvass to be more crisp. Something that creates more vivid shape? Might be the way he cuts and prepares the canvass is the problem.

Am I the Chris you are referring to?

Yes you're the one smile.gif Well, he's not the kind of tailor that has a book of canvasses, he uses the same hymo for all of his suits... he is bespoke but it's lower end (but convenient to my location). I was just hoping the haircloth might 'help' the structure of the coat since I know he's not really interested in shaping they hymo more crisply and vividly as you say. What would be the problem with using haircloth everywhere? Would it spring open wildly here and there? So maybe I should just give him one of Dudgdale's crisper, heavier, firmer hymos rather than haircloth?
post #8902 of 11665
16 ounce hopsack isn't going to look crisp when you make it up.
post #8903 of 11665
Oh this is for other fabrics, like right now I'm thinking of giving him another 8oz Cape Breeze, and wanted to make sure it was as crisp as possible at the end.
post #8904 of 11665
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

16 ounce hopsack isn't going to look crisp when you make it up.

What's a better option? If someone wanted a crisp blazer, for example?
post #8905 of 11665
Quote:
Originally Posted by smc View Post

Yes, as soon as I read your post my thought was "I've definitely read things in this thread pointing people to the Lesser 16oz". I'd forgotten about it, but you triggered my memory.

Took a look on the Harrisons website, and from the photo (for what that's worth), I think I do really like it.

Fun part now will be getting my hands on it. Fairly sure my tailor doesn't have it, and previously I've always just picked from the books. Never done the whole "Buy my own cloth" thing.

The lesser 16 is a very "dry" old world cloth, its something many people venturing into bespoke gloss over, but eventually come to after they've made a few errors in choosing cloth, you would be lucky to start with it, the navy hopsack will make up a great sport jacket
post #8906 of 11665
Quote:
Originally Posted by DocHolliday View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

16 ounce hopsack isn't going to look crisp when you make it up.

What's a better option? If someone wanted a crisp blazer, for example?

Seems like a foreign question to hear on stylforum. I thought "soft tailoring" was de rigueur here. You're not from around these parts, heh Doc?
post #8907 of 11665
inorite? Next thing you know, he'll be advocating white OCBD shirts with odd jackets...
post #8908 of 11665
It's a slippery slope, indeed!
post #8909 of 11665
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

inorite? Next thing you know, he'll be advocating white OCBD shirts with odd jackets...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

It's a slippery slope, indeed!

post #8910 of 11665
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slickman View Post

The lesser 16 is a very "dry" old world cloth, its something many people venturing into bespoke gloss over, but eventually come to after they've made a few errors in choosing cloth, you would be lucky to start with it, the navy hopsack will make up a great sport jacket

What are you trying to convey by using "dry"?
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