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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 564

post #8446 of 11740

Puf this thing is brutal for me. As I am the pinstripe man  tongue.png  I got a lot of pinstripe suits,

 

Now starting pinstripe checks  biggrin.png .

 

A client got this, I should have taken it for me, brrr.

 

Which color do you like most for a next suiting ?  i might have too much blues but this  grey or blue? It´s blue, but picture made it look grey on the left.

 

Super 150s Carlo Barbera  mohair milled for my Kiton fellas. Windowpane.jpg 194k .jpg file  


Edited by SartodiNapoli - 2/4/14 at 8:56pm
post #8447 of 11740

Me,

 

Got a mohair Summer in 130s from Pal Zileri. Awesome fresh stuff, but the fabric looses hairs all the time. 

 

Doesn´t happens on other mills, but that Guabello has something special on it.

post #8448 of 11740

Hi any recommendation for a Navy blue serge cloth from one of the English mills? I'm looking for something between 12-13 oz ideally.

 

Many thanks in advance

post #8449 of 11740
Quote:
Originally Posted by TRINI View Post

Just picked up my completed Minnis 301 flannel DB yesterday. Thanks to everyone for their help in narrowing down the fabric.

12308517974_f8cedd87b8_c.jpg

Very nice, I would get some fuller trousers next time around.
post #8450 of 11740
Quote:
Originally Posted by tchoy View Post

I am having this grey windowpane cloth being made to a sport coat at the moment not 8 oz but very open weave 100% linen from Solbiati


Really nice, how did you get hold of that please?
Quote:
Originally Posted by TRINI View Post

Just picked up my completed Minnis 301 flannel DB yesterday. Thanks to everyone for their help in narrowing down the fabric.

12308517974_f8cedd87b8_c.jpg

That's almost like my RMCH 2012 charity suit, except I got patch pockets. Tiberias used LP sunset, which is superlux.
post #8451 of 11740
Quote:
Originally Posted by chobochobo View Post

Really nice, how did you get hold of that please?

Sent you a PM.
post #8452 of 11740
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

On mohair I put strips of lining cut on the bias on both side of the seat seam to reinforce and share the stress on the seam.

You feel the snugness of this cloth as it has no give at all

Very good tip to know, many thanks.

If I may, and I think many of us venturing into the lightweights might want to know this, but do you use heavier or stiffer canvassing on your lighter summer cloths to compensate for their lightness? I got my completed suit back today, my first 8oz-er, and it kind of has a limp, sweater-y appearance; specifically the fronts splay out when not buttoned, creating vertical ripples around the armpit and down the fronts. The PG pic below is a mild example of the problem. I think I remember you saying once something to the effect that a jacket's fronts ought to stand out firm and rigid at almost where they would button, such that buttoning doesn't involve any pulling or tugging. Mine's the opposite. Is heavier canvassing and more pronounced waist darts in the canvassing the solution to this?

post #8453 of 11740
Don't change weight of hymo we use for making the canvass. Use the same hymo for different cloth weights. I buy the hymo that is the lightest weight with the most "spring" to it.

The problems you see in the photo and your suit are about the workmanship. The jacket in the photo has a short collar and is stressing the front edge. When you put mohair cloth onto the canvass you want to use a different tension of cloth over the canvass. Mohair is very hard and requires different techniques.

Don't think I would say anything like your comment about the front buttoning. The lapel/buttoning point should look natural and roll gracefully. Pliable not firm.
post #8454 of 11740
Quote:
Originally Posted by tchoy View Post


Sent you a PM.

 

Could you, please, share it with me too? Thanks.

post #8455 of 11740
Quote:
Originally Posted by Victor Elfo View Post

Could you, please, share it with me too? Thanks.

pm sent.
post #8456 of 11740

anyone have a view (from experience) about the Fresco II 0546's appropriateness for business? The 511 is a nice mid-grey, but I think the 546 might stray into too lite territory  i.e. so lite as to draw a lot of (the wrong kind of) attention to the wearer.

 

 

 

546 

0546.jpg 

 

511

0511.jpg

post #8457 of 11740
511 is lighter IRL, great shade of light-mid grey. Quintessential business fabric for summer, I would go for that and/or 513 or some of the superlightweight stuff
post #8458 of 11740
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pliny View Post

anyone have a view (from experience) about the Fresco II 0546's appropriateness for business? The 511 is a nice mid-grey, but I think the 546 might stray into too lite territory  i.e. so lite as to draw a lot of (the wrong kind of) attention to the wearer.

Here's a pair of pants in 546, it's a bad photo but it might give you a sense of how light it is. It's a great fabric but very light grey, especially for a full suit.

post #8459 of 11740
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slickman View Post

511 is lighter IRL, great shade of light-mid grey. Quintessential business fabric for summer, I would go for that and/or 513 or some of the superlightweight stuff

 

thanks, I have a suit in 511.

 

I'm  looking for something a little lighter in color and same weight  -   but not super-light gray

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by thirdman View Post


Here's a pair of pants in 546, it's a bad photo but it might give you a sense of how light it is. It's a great fabric but very light grey, especially for a full suit.
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

thank you kindly for the pic.   I'm inclined to rely more on your stated judgement that it's too light.  pity

post #8460 of 11740
Check smiths finmeresco book, much larger range of colors at the 10oz weight
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