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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 535

post #8011 of 11401
Quote:
Originally Posted by mactire View Post

Seersucker on a cut length basis is hard to find. 

Really? At one time, Loro Piana had a cashmere blend, and the more conventional preppy cotton-only is out there in a few incarnations. Can't remember where, but it's not impossible to find.
post #8012 of 11401

Thanks for that sanity check. It seems to have fans on here but if it's as bold as you suggest it may not be for me.

post #8013 of 11401
Quote:
Originally Posted by Concordia View Post


Really? At one time, Loro Piana had a cashmere blend, and the more conventional preppy cotton-only is out there in a few incarnations. Can't remember where, but it's not impossible to find.

 

Well I couldn't find it when I wanted it.  I'm up to my gills in cloth though so it'll be a while before I'm looking again.   

post #8014 of 11401
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post

 What's more, perversely perhaps, is that it seems to be the junior ranks who wear a tie.  I was even told in Malaysia that it was a sign of confidence for the senior management to dress more casually, and the accounts assistants and salesmen were the only ones who wore ties.

That's slightly terrifying. I go back and forth between wondering if the modern business suit is actually flattering to the human form or not, but it would be a shame if it became a sign of junior status. I really wish we could go back to the 19th century and change the trend as to what would become businesswear... there were lots of cool, unstructured jacket forms during the Regency that would have been much more comfortable and practical.
post #8015 of 11401
Quote:
Originally Posted by Svenn View Post

That's slightly terrifying. I go back and forth between wondering if the modern business suit is actually flattering to the human form or not, but it would be a shame if it became a sign of junior status. I really wish we could go back to the 19th century and change the trend as to what would become businesswear... there were lots of cool, unstructured jacket forms during the Regency that would have been much more comfortable and practical.

Now as then, a sober suit marks one as a member of the prosperous professional/middle class. As we re-establish an aristocratic economy, however, that is no longer the unalloyed virtue that it used to be.
post #8016 of 11401
What do you think the dress of the aristocrats will become?

I wonder if a century from now tailors will be canvassing dress shirts and the jacket, and perhaps wool itself, will be completely gone... this could turn into the cotton thread.
post #8017 of 11401
I don't know what aristocrats wear but lots of people enjoy wearing suits even if they don't need to for status/class reasons. I'd say that suits/jackets are rising in popularity, if anything, in contrast to the business casual backlash to formal business attire in the 80s-90s.
post #8018 of 11401
Quote:
Originally Posted by johanm View Post

I don't know what aristocrats wear



post #8019 of 11401
Quote:
Originally Posted by Svenn View Post


That's slightly terrifying. I go back and forth between wondering if the modern business suit is actually flattering to the human form or not, but it would be a shame if it became a sign of junior status. I really wish we could go back to the 19th century and change the trend as to what would become businesswear... there were lots of cool, unstructured jacket forms during the Regency that would have been much more comfortable and practical.

 

Ah no, the suit is safe I think: it still makes you look like a person to be taken seriously.  The Asian microcosm in which the tie is "trying too hard", is also one in which suits are rare at all: so wearing one might well make you look like a visitor.  But a visitor who means business.

 

A suit, preferably three piece, well chosen tie and pocket square and a good pair of shoes, remain the mark of a professional gentleman, in my opinion.

post #8020 of 11401
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Svenn View Post

That's slightly terrifying. I go back and forth between wondering if the modern business suit is actually flattering to the human form or not, but it would be a shame if it became a sign of junior status. I really wish we could go back to the 19th century and change the trend as to what would become businesswear... there were lots of cool, unstructured jacket forms during the Regency that would have been much more comfortable and practical.

Ah no, the suit is safe I think: it still makes you look like a person to be taken seriously.  The Asian microcosm in which the tie is "trying too hard", is also one in which suits are rare at all: so wearing one might well make you look like a visitor.  But a visitor who means business.

A suit, preferably three piece, well chosen tie and pocket square and a good pair of shoes, remain the mark of a professional gentleman, in my opinion.

+1 to that
post #8021 of 11401
Quote:
Originally Posted by Svenn View Post

That's slightly terrifying. I go back and forth between wondering if the modern business suit is actually flattering to the human form or not, but it would be a shame if it became a sign of junior status. I really wish we could go back to the 19th century and change the trend as to what would become businesswear... there were lots of cool, unstructured jacket forms during the Regency that would have been much more comfortable and practical.

It is the culture of the region in general. The suit & tie was never deeply embedded within South East Asia and its culture.

Now the suit & tie is gaining traction amongst the new generation of business leaders there who are replacing the previous generation of senior management. As mimo has mentioned, it was 10 years ago and 10 years ago in Singapore/Malaysia, the generation of senior management were probably men who were brought up by parents who had experienced both WW2 and British colonial rule.

I'm not sure how to really put it into words and I'm from Singapore. But I can largely say that the attitude and values that the previous generation of senior management were brought up with are vastly different from the current ones.

The gradual amount of Western influence on the way business is conducted is also the reason why suit & ties were signs of junior status as the kiddos grew up with it while the senior levels grew up without it.
post #8022 of 11401
Quote:
Originally Posted by C&A View Post

The unfunded liability above just got funded. Will be laying my hands on it this weekend. In the meantime some pictures from my tailor.
















People interested in this Breanish fabric, please contact me. We can organize the run and I can share details over PM.
post #8023 of 11401
Love the lapel roll.
post #8024 of 11401
/\ Thanks.

Some members asked via pm whether the quarters were cut closed or whether it was due to the dummy. It was the latter I think. Here's a quick picture of the jackets first outing earlier this week. Pants are made from a vintage heavy flannel Guabello, quite similar to the royal flannel that Caccioppoli is currently offering and which is made to their own specifications http://caccioppoli1920.tumblr.com/post/37855649129/our-collection-of-guabellos-royal-flannel-a



I went through my boxes with unfunded liabilities and decided to sell some, a suits length of an LP summer green (LP's take on solaro) which is no longer made, jacket's length of Carlo Barbera for Lessers gunclub in 13 oz. (also no longer being made after Barbera was bought by Kiton) and three 90 cm. Bonfanti shirtings



http://www.styleforum.net/t/372008/loro-piana-summer-green/0_30



http://www.styleforum.net/t/372009/carlo-barbera-for-lessers-13-oz-gunclub/0_30



http://www.styleforum.net/t/372010/3-giancarlo-bonfanti-90-cm-shirtings/0_30
post #8025 of 11401
Quote:
Originally Posted by C&A View Post

The unfunded liability above just got funded. Will be laying my hands on it this weekend. In the meantime some pictures from my tailor.



Did I see fusing under the lapel canvas?facepalm.gif
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