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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 509

post #7621 of 11387
This is pure cashmere and not meant for trousers so jacket only.

Have quite a few clients that love peak lapels and it is default on all garments regardless of cloth or what purpose the garment will be used .For example, have a client since 1991 and every garment, suits or sport coats in every type of cloth, wool, cottons, corduroy, etc. get peak lapels. Another client is peak lapel, one button regardless of what we make. It is their signature look with no deviation. When they pick cloth we only decide on SB or DB and patch, flap or besom pockets.
post #7622 of 11387
I think I would likewise go with SB peak with single button were I to commission a suit, but I'm not sure I could do that with a tweed odd jacket.
post #7623 of 11387
Just a preview for those interested:

Tobacco Flannel (Click to show)
51eb6s.jpg

155kwb6.jpg


This test is approx. 17oz, the swatch in the corner of the first picture is WBill Tobacco Linen, there as a color reference, color is more brown and less orange IRL and is better represented in the second photo, but is still more brown IRL. I will update with a better picture once color has been finalized as I'm still working on some final details. Will keep everyone posted on how to "subscribe" to this, for now the tobacco flannel is looking very good, if you have any suggestions, please let me know.
Edited by Slickman - 10/24/13 at 5:45pm
post #7624 of 11387
Wow, that looks great!
post #7625 of 11387
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

This is pure cashmere and not meant for trousers so jacket only.

Have quite a few clients that love peak lapels and it is default on all garments regardless of cloth or what purpose the garment will be used .For example, have a client since 1991 and every garment, suits or sport coats in every type of cloth, wool, cottons, corduroy, etc. get peak lapels. Another client is peak lapel, one button regardless of what we make. It is their signature look with no deviation. When they pick cloth we only decide on SB or DB and patch, flap or besom pockets.

 

Interesting - I just picked up a one button peak lapel from Will Field here in DC, and am very happy with it. Not sure I'd use it on everything, but I certainly think it's more versatile than some on SF claim. FWIW, I went with half-slant besom pockets.

 

Slickman - that flannel is beautiful. What's the weight?

post #7626 of 11387
approx. 17oz
post #7627 of 11387

I did ask in a separate thread, but got no replies as usual. 

 

Most "Business/ Work friendly"  Linen Suit Colors & Fabrics for Hot place like Miami/ Asia? 

 

Which would be the most "Business/ Work friendly"  Colors/ Fabrics in Linen/ Linen Cotton/ Linen Blends for a hot place like Miami/ Asia? 

 

I was reading about Mantons post with an unlined linen suit and another thread with Navy Linen Suit. 

 

I am pretty close to locking on a wool suit fabric and was thinking of doing a linen one with it.

 

The third one would be Fresco :) 

 

I may have to be down in Miami for a project so... -


Which color/ fabric of Linen/ Linen-cotton blend would be most formal/ appropriate for business / work? 

Navy > Gray > Tan?? Can you rate them in some order? 

Also fabric weight/ brand/ looks/ pictures/ links and recommendations would be greatly welcome. 

 

Update: Saw a place with tons of linens (confused the hell out of me). Stuff from 1500 INR/ 15 GBP to 3000 INR / 30 GBP.

 

How would you choose a Linen fabric for UNLINED suit? Minimum Oz weight/ thickness factor? 

post #7628 of 11387
I'm not saying this to be snarky, but perhaps you'd find people willing to be more helpful if you'd keep your posts concise and to the point. No multi-paragraph long posts that essentially repeat the same questions over and over.

In response to the above, Navy is the obvious choice, with a mid-tan coming second (Grey looks weird in linen imo). Good mills include Solbiati, W. Bill, Harrisons etc. Dugdales sells decent quality linens online. Look for something in the 10-12oz. weight.

Frankly, I would still go with the Fresco.
post #7629 of 11387

I'm going to commission an odd coat made of raw silk, but I can't decide between MOP or horn buttons (dark or light brown?). What would you go for? If the configuration should be of any significance to that choice, I'm going with hip patches, 3 to 2.5, 3 buttons on each sleeve and natural, but roped, shoulders. Thank you.

 

post #7630 of 11387
I would go w light brown horn. Raw silk is unusual enough w/o you having to jazz it up further w MOP buttons.
post #7631 of 11387
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley View Post

I would go w light brown horn. Raw silk is unusual enough w/o you having to jazz it up further w MOP buttons.

Agreed.
post #7632 of 11387
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slewfoot View Post

Agreed.
seconded.
post #7633 of 11387
Quote:
Originally Posted by Victor Elfo View Post
 

I'm going to commission an odd coat made of raw silk, but I can't decide between MOP or horn buttons (dark or light brown?). What would you go for? If the configuration should be of any significance to that choice, I'm going with hip patches, 3 to 2.5, 3 buttons on each sleeve and natural, but roped, shoulders. Thank you.

 

 

Where'd you get the raw silk as a matter of interest?

post #7634 of 11387
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley View Post

I'm not saying this to be snarky, but perhaps you'd find people willing to be more helpful if you'd keep your posts concise and to the point. No multi-paragraph long posts that essentially repeat the same questions over and over.

In response to the above, Navy is the obvious choice, with a mid-tan coming second (Grey looks weird in linen imo). Good mills include Solbiati, W. Bill, Harrisons etc. Dugdales sells decent quality linens online. Look for something in the 10-12oz. weight.

Frankly, I would still go with the Fresco.

Point taken. My apologies. In some ways my posts reflect my state of mind and current location/ situation . As things change and I am able to afford more, can access better locations and become more aware of things (fabrics, tailors etc) I will have crisper responses and questions. 

 

Navy - noted. Gray (Yes Linen does not hold certain color well) 

- Tan on Wiki - I saw huge number of shades of linen from ivory to dark brown at this place (The Linen Club) so a link of what is defined as mid-tan (or the mid-tan you recommend) would be great. Actually, since you mentioned it I am piqued to go in this direction. 

 

Fresco is on my "to get" list as soon as certain conditions (financial, personal, tailor etc are done). This linen suit will not be for business formal, but I wanted it to have dual purpose - Be able to use for an evening out or in office / business where in high heat it could still work. 


Edited by XFactor - 10/28/13 at 6:52am
post #7635 of 11387
There was some interest a while ago for a re-run of the Slewfoot fresco, and I wanted to see how much interest we can round up again. I recently had a meeting with Steed, and the stock brown Fresco is much too black for an odd jacket. Indeed, it's basically black.

Any interest in getting a re-run? I'd like to get something a touch less red. Something in between the two shades in the first photo/ something like the second photo.




If you're interested, PM me with details of how much fabric you want. If we can get 60 meters, I'll organize a run.

Note, you should PM me even if you already expressed interest earlier. Would like to do one last final count to see who's in.
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