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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 506

post #7576 of 9832




In from Lovat mill (gunclub is from C. Barbera).
post #7577 of 9832
Jerry, What is the herringbone?
Can anyone recommend a charcoal herringbone suiting? Something in 10-11oz range, workhorse fabric.
post #7578 of 9832
That's Lovat 210/377



This pic is more accurate.
post #7579 of 9832
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

There was a time when you could save money, and not insignificant money, sourcing your own cloth. I think that time has passed. Among other things, cloth prices have risen, the CMT discount has declined or disappeared, and you are more or less guaranteed now to be socked by heavy duties.

Depending on the tailor, that time has not passed. I consistently save $300-$400 per suit, which is not insignificant to me. Far more importantly, I enjoy hunting for more unique fabrics, and have found my orders to be better thought out than when I furtively looked through 25 swatch books at the tailors.
post #7580 of 9832
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerrybrowne View Post

That's Lovat 210/377



This pic is more accurate.

Jerry - where did you get swatches of Lovat's non-LL tweeds? The old Bookster website?
post #7581 of 9832
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grammaton Cleric View Post

Jerry - where did you get swatches of Lovat's non-LL tweeds? The old Bookster website?

Alright, don't make fun but I got pics off of this site

http://www.tweedaddict.com/tweed-cloths/heavy-weight/

then sent the images to Lovat. They recognized the patterns and sent the cloths. Color is very accurate.

Lovat will also send you swatches for free along with orders if you tell them what you are looking for. Very helpful.
post #7582 of 9832
Nice, that's clever - thanks
post #7583 of 9832
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grammaton Cleric View Post


Depending on the tailor, that time has not passed. I consistently save $300-$400 per suit, which is not insignificant to me. Far more importantly, I enjoy hunting for more unique fabrics, and have found my orders to be better thought out than when I furtively looked through 25 swatch books at the tailors.

 

 

I concur.  Living with the bolt of cloth for a time as well means you have a much greater appreciation of the pattern and styling you would use.  Picking a cloth out from ten books or so under time pressure would be a real killer for me.

post #7584 of 9832
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerrybrowne View Post

Lovat will also send you swatches for free along with orders if you tell them what you are looking for. Very helpful.

Those are beautiful tweeds, jerrybrowne.

Has anyone ever had any experience with a bunch called The Bard by Lovat? I have come across a few scattered mentions of it - once in a Huntsman newsletter and once on a forum post - and I think it is likely to be suitable for my purposes. I have tried to email them a couple of times but they did not respond to my emails.
post #7585 of 9832

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grammaton Cleric View Post
Depending on the tailor, that time has not passed. I consistently save $300-$400 per suit, which is not insignificant to me. Far more importantly, I enjoy hunting for more unique fabrics, and have found my orders to be better thought out than when I furtively looked through 25 swatch books at the tailors.

Who is your tailor? Do share/ recommend. Something to save if and when I got more pricey / high end maybe. 

 
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by mactire View Post
I concur.  Living with the bolt of cloth for a time as well means you have a much greater appreciation of the pattern and styling you would use.  Picking a cloth out from ten books or so under time pressure would be a real killer for me.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bozzkeren View Post
 

hi, does anyone know fabric quality of william halstead, reid & taylor (scotland made) and john foster?

i have no exprience in choosing fabric or what one look in fabric

is it wise to buy fabric online without feeling the fabric first?

thanks

 

So, I have some friends & family in the clothing business - Through them I was able to get access to the few online stores and plan to do more of that for the online stores you can mention.  But none of them are close to "suits" and "woolens". My learning of woolens and suits is probably highest thanks to SF so I have to HELP MY SELF with YOUR HELP. 

 

http://www.dugdalebros.com - Registered with Verification Emails

http://www.huddersfieldcloth.com - Registered with Verification Emails

http://www.hfwltd.com- Registered online

 

Any others that I can browse through? Anyone else offers similar and with sales etc? Also looking through some Ebay Stores. 

 

In the future, my dream suits due to weather and me being hot all the time is to get Minnis Fresco, Finmeresco, Crispaire, Cool Breeze, Cool Wool etc. They all seem to be going at around 50-60 GBP so I am putting that on HOLD for now. 

 

For right now: As suggested above I like the fact that there are decent fabrics from them at 30 GBP or so and 20 GBP on some of the sales.

E.g. I am looking through these (Dugdale - English Town & Classics) and wondering if they are good enough for a decent suit? 

Should I go 100s, 110s, 120s instead and look for sales of those? 

 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

VAT is 20% in the UK, so deduct one sixth of the total. (Price/120x100)

 

Shipping rates will vary depending on destination, method and of course what you're ordering.  Personally I like to use the international parcel service operated by the Royal Mail and most national mail service (EMS), for two reasons: firstly, it's a lot cheaper than DHL/Fedex, although it takes a little longer.  Secondly, depending on where you are, the courier companies often levy additional fees for processing your customs clearance, and are responsible for ensuring that you pay all your import duties:

 

Unless the vendor is sending your item labelled as a gift or vastly under-valued - which they've no obligation to do as it is fraud - then DHL or whoever will make sure you've paid every last dime and bill you extra for arranging it.  

 

As I understand it, India has some heavy import tariffs.  Even the US can sting you pretty badly, especially if the vendor doesn't know the best customs code to use.  EMS, however, going through a mail service, somehow seems to skip the whole customs process sometimes.  

 

I've never been charged an import duty on something sent to my postal address this way, or any brokerage fees. So if buying form the UK, I'd ask them to quote for mailing the parcel from the Post Office.

 

However, here's another thing from my own bitter experience: I have a similar issue to you in that local tailoring is extremely limited, and it's the norm to bring your own cloth for making.  The local market has a very small selection of wool suitings, some of it of questionable origin, and of that which is trustworthy, very few opportunities for discount/clearance prices as their turnover is so small.  So, like you, I neither want to spend too much on my basic local tailoring, or restrict myself to what's in the local shops.  

 

I've ordered cloth from three or four different places before, and I just want to warn you that it's something of a lottery.  Internet pictures will never give you any indication of texture or drape, and can even mislead you severely on the colour. To put that into perspective, I've received seven lengths of suiting in the last few weeks from three different vendors.  It's safe to say that not one of them is exactly as I imagined.  Three will be unusable for me.  

 

I would suggest, then, that you either buy locally for your experiment - there are plenty of perfectly decent Indian-made cloths that will be cheap and look fine.  I am sure you can find just one that you like for your first test with this tailor.  Or, if you're confident that you'll get a decent suit, then skip the bargain basement and only buy suitings from a company that you know is selling high-quality branded cloth.

 

The simple reason is that if your cloth is coming from Harrison's or Minnis or whoever, you know that at the very least it was made for tailoring into a man's suit.  Believe me, all the Union flags and wholesome sounding references to the Yorkshire Dales in the world, won't make some bargain on the internet into decent suit cloth.  There is a lot of stuff out there under made-up brands that would make a perfectly respectable skirt for your missus or school blazer for your son, but isn't going to fill you with a sense of power and composure when you go into that business meeting.  So buy carefully - from what you can see if you can, and from what you've heard of if you can't.

Mimo - I really appreciate your detailed reply. As you may notice I've read and marked it carefully. Few questions & thoughts based on your reply

  1. - What kind of customs code is that? How does one get that across to them? (Where are you based - Does it not depend on the destination country/ city Customs)? 
  2. - I am also trying to figure out the Shipping costs - e.g. For a single suit length to the US? Any ideas on how to find/ use some online calculators for this? 
  3. - Can you share (maybe over PM) which vendors you bought these 7 lengths from? And share some details on that? 
  4. - Finding decent India made cloths has been an issue as its mostly all POLY-wool blends here and until winter comes I wont see any or that many (or only if I go North to Delhi). 
  5. - Now that I have some access to the Official Sources (listed above) and ask you and others for more such sources I might be safer? Then ask people here which one to buy. 
  6. - With the Union flags etc. I am guessing you mean the Ebay UK based vendors and their fabrics that may not be all that dependable? 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
There was a time when you could save money, and not insignificant money, sourcing your own cloth. I think that time has passed. Among other things, cloth prices have risen, the CMT discount has declined or disappeared, and you are more or less guaranteed now to be socked by heavy duties.

The reason(s), if any truly remain, to source your own cloth are
1) if they tailor you want to use simply can't get the exact cloth you want;
2) If you know you want something particular, but aren't quite sure when or by whom, get the cloth now because it may run out and never be re-run.
The decline in "old world" style/quality stuff just in the last 5-10 years has been astounding. Cloth stashes are getting to be like fine wine cellars filled with 2-barrel lot burgundies.
And no auction market. Most of the stuff I have can't be replicated any more. At least, I wouldn't know where to start

 

Manton - Right now, I am simply not in the best spot to get what I want. But I will in the future. If you have trouble finding what you had and want again, imagine what is happening to newbies who are just starting to learn the ropes. 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slewfoot View Post Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
It's these exact reasons, that I don't mind hoarding cloth and paying up for it when top notch. I probably have more than I need (hence I'm selling some), but when you see something you like that you know is well made, just buy it. Don't think, "hmmmm, but this other less renowned maker has a similar fabric that is 20% less so perhaps I should go with that." Go with what you know is the best and is the best you can afford. If you're already spending up or down of a grand on something custom, don't fret over an additional $50. Well made cloth will last and as you start to learn more about style you'll then be sad you didn't pony up that extra $50 years down the line.

For standard books, the flannels from Minnis and Harrisons are great and some of the W. Bill tweed books as well. Minnis Fresco too. There are still some random tweed producers out there, but some of their designs are a bit much. Well made stuff, but not very elegant. For cottons and linens I really like Brisbane Moss.

I must say the London Lounge stuff really is great. I'm always impressed with it both in the colors and the structure. One thing that Michael does very well is add some porous qualities to even the heavy cloth. When held against a light you can always see through it to some extent which allows for it to breathe better than many similar fabrics in even lighter weights. I haven't been disappointed yet and the Steed / LL cloth discount makes it very, very appealing.

 

Slewfoot - Right now the best I can afford is a bit limited. But I think with some homework and you guys help I may come out better even at lower starting cost. 

PS: What is this Steed / LL Cloth discount? Are there any such similar ones I am missing? 

post #7586 of 9832

ALSO: 

 

For INTERVIEWS, NEW JOBS and FORMAL CLIENT MEETINGS, (To err on the Safer Conservative side)

 

Which of these self-patterns/ weaves are most Conservative Business DressingColors: a Charcoal, Dark, Mid-Grey / Navy Suit  

Which of these would maybe also be more suited for an Executive or Senior Level of advisory? 

 

Hopsack, Sharkskin, Twill, Herringbone, Solids, Checks, PoW Checks ...any others that I am missing? Can you maybe Rank them with X > Y >Z  > ?  

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Quote:

Originally Posted by mensimageconsultant View Post

Herringbone would be the best and twill maybe the worst, but a normal weave without a pattern would be much better for meeting new people in CBD.
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by forex View Post

Jerry, What is the herringbone?
Can anyone recommend a charcoal herringbone suiting? Something in 10-11oz range, workhorse fabric.
post #7587 of 9832

I just bought this "FRESCO" on Ebay -  Is this Safe, Reliable vendor? and Genuine Minnis Fresco? I am guessing?

 

It will not ship until I decide where to ship to - US (visit), UK (friends place) or India. 

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Medium-Grey-Fresco-All-Wool-English-Suiting-Fabric-Length-3-25-Metres-/121192951646?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK%3AMESINDXX%3AIT&nma=true&si=E%252BfalCFqviyMK%252FklgvhG%252FSHTDMI%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

For Comparison: Second Image from another site: 

post #7588 of 9832
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by XFactor View Post
 

Who is your tailor? Do share/ recommend. Something to save if and when I got more pricey / high end maybe. 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
 

 

So, I have some friends & family in the clothing business - Through them I was able to get access to the few online stores and plan to do more of that for the online stores you can mention.  But none of them are close to "suits" and "woolens". My learning of woolens and suits is probably highest thanks to SF so I have to HELP MY SELF with YOUR HELP. 

 

http://www.dugdalebros.com - Registered with Verification Emails

http://www.huddersfieldcloth.com - Registered with Verification Emails

http://www.hfwltd.com- Registered online

 

Any others that I can browse through? Anyone else offers similar and with sales etc? Also looking through some Ebay Stores. 

 

In the future, my dream suits due to weather and me being hot all the time is to get Minnis Fresco, Finmeresco, Crispaire, Cool Breeze, Cool Wool etc. They all seem to be going at around 50-60 GBP so I am putting that on HOLD for now. 

 

For right now: As suggested above I like the fact that there are decent fabrics from them at 30 GBP or so and 20 GBP on some of the sales.

E.g. I am looking through these (Dugdale - English Town & Classics) and wondering if they are good enough for a decent suit? 

Should I go 100s, 110s, 120s instead and look for sales of those? 

Mimo - I really appreciate your detailed reply. As you may notice I've read and marked it carefully. Few questions & thoughts based on your reply

  1. - What kind of customs code is that? How does one get that across to them? (Where are you based - Does it not depend on the destination country/ city Customs)? 
  2. - I am also trying to figure out the Shipping costs - e.g. For a single suit length to the US? Any ideas on how to find/ use some online calculators for this? 
  3. - Can you share (maybe over PM) which vendors you bought these 7 lengths from? And share some details on that? 
  4. - Finding decent India made cloths has been an issue as its mostly all POLY-wool blends here and until winter comes I wont see any or that many (or only if I go North to Delhi). 
  5. - Now that I have some access to the Official Sources (listed above) and ask you and others for more such sources I might be safer? Then ask people here which one to buy. 
  6. - With the Union flags etc. I am guessing you mean the Ebay UK based vendors and their fabrics that may not be all that dependable? 

 

Manton - Right now, I am simply not in the best spot to get what I want. But I will in the future. If you have trouble finding what you had and want again, imagine what is happening to newbies who are just starting to learn the ropes. 

 

Slewfoot - Right now the best I can afford is a bit limited. But I think with some homework and you guys help I may come out better even at lower starting cost. 

PS: What is this Steed / LL Cloth discount? Are there any such similar ones I am missing? 

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by XFactor View Post
 

ALSO: 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
 

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by XFactor View Post
 

I just bought this "FRESCO" on Ebay -  Is this Safe, Reliable vendor? and Genuine Minnis Fresco? I am guessing?

 

It will not ship until I decide where to ship to - US (visit), UK (friends place) or India. 

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Medium-Grey-Fresco-All-Wool-English-Suiting-Fabric-Length-3-25-Metres-/121192951646?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK%3AMESINDXX%3AIT&nma=true&si=E%252BfalCFqviyMK%252FklgvhG%252FSHTDMI%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

For Comparison: Second Image from another site: 

 

Have you considered starting a thread, or, even better, posting in the 'quick questions, quick answers' thread, rather than carpet bombing this thread with these sort of requests for personal consultancy services?

post #7589 of 9832
Looking for some rich indigo denim (like that seen in 45rpm and othet Japanese stuff) for use in a shirt. Anyone know a source?
post #7590 of 9832
Quote:
Originally Posted by Balfour View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 



 



 



 


Have you considered starting a thread, or, even better, posting in the 'quick questions, quick answers' thread, rather than carpet bombing this thread with these sort of requests for personal consultancy services?
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