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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 501

post #7501 of 12494
The H&S Cool Breeze is a simple, straightforward panama. Probably a 'super' 80's or maybe 90's. Spongy, porous, and sturdy. I am not the biggest H&S fan, but, in this case, for a very basic workhorse summer panama, it's just fine. There's a dark (not charcoal) shade in that book that I like a lot.

I received some information a while back--that the Hardy/Minnis/H&W powers-that-be have explored the possibility of a 7/8 oz. Fresco. Which, for those late July/early August days here on the East Coast, would be most welcome. But, alas, we'll see.

Halstead Explorer is a superb 8 oz. panama. It doesn't receive as much attention as it deserves. I think there's a blue-gray in that book.

Back to H&S: The Cape Horn HighTwist book is a bit more polished that the Cool Breeze. Only a 1/2 ounce heavier, and 100's. A different finish, smoother to the touch. Still, a basic wear-a-lot summer panama.

I've petitioned for a lighter weight version of H&S Crispaire. I feel sure if they included a small run (a few solids and basic stripes) of 8/9 oz. Crispaire in the book, it would sell well. Crispaire is great for what it is but there's no way it's a mid-summer Manhattan cloth. I have 10/11 oz. panamas that are more porous.

One can easily imagine a blue-grey in a lighter weight version. So many kinds of potentially great cloth.
post #7502 of 12494

Alright, so already looking to get a couple flannel trousers made. I'm leaning towards a full cut with lots of body and nice drape, Andre Churchwell style. So I was wondering if someone has experience with the heavier (17/18 oz.) flannels in H&S Viceroy and Classic Flannels books. How do they wear and how well do they keep a crease?

post #7503 of 12494
Quote:
Originally Posted by RDiaz View Post

Alright, so already looking to get a couple flannel trousers made. I'm leaning towards a full cut with lots of body and nice drape, Andre Churchwell style. So I was wondering if someone has experience with the heavier (17/18 oz.) flannels in H&S Viceroy and Classic Flannels books. How do they wear and how well do they keep a crease?

I have a pair from the 17oz. Fox - look very good and maintain their shape over the course of a long day.
post #7504 of 12494

Anyone know if H&S still do their heavy flannels?

post #7505 of 12494

HI everyone, I'm trying to find out which book the following jacket fabric is from but have had no luck in any of my searches. I'm pretty sure I saw someone mention the details of the gunclub check fabric in this thread but I can't find that post anywhere, The Armoury folk are very fond of this pattern.

 

 

Many thanks in advance.

post #7506 of 12494
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerry Nelson View Post
 

HI everyone, I'm trying to find out which book the following jacket fabric is from but have had no luck in any of my searches. I'm pretty sure I saw someone mention the details of the gunclub check fabric in this thread but I can't find that post anywhere, The Armoury folk are very fond of this pattern.

 

 

Many thanks in advance.

 

I too would love to know the maker; I have a feeling it may be Minnis

post #7507 of 12494
post #7508 of 12494

Could very well be but you would have thought they would have reblogged the images from The Armoury if that were the case.

post #7509 of 12494
Looks a bit like the Glorious Twelfth checks, but not exactly the same colors. Perhaps a custom run?
post #7510 of 12494
Looks like Riviera
post #7511 of 12494
Just email armoury and ask, worst case they don't know either
post #7512 of 12494
Any suggestions for a 3-season worsted navy pin or chalk stripe? Am thinking Lesser by default but figured I'd explore. Would be for a DB suit, probably done by Chittleborough & Morgan.
post #7513 of 12494
Quote:
Originally Posted by medtech_expat View Post

Any suggestions for a 3-season worsted navy pin or chalk stripe? Am thinking Lesser by default but figured I'd explore. Would be for a DB suit, probably done by Chittleborough & Morgan.
The Harrisons Frontier (10oz) is good basic stuff-- plain weave in case you run warm. For another alternative to Lesser 11oz (which I'm guessing is the default setting), there is the Fine Classics book at Harrisons. No specific idea of how those make up, but there are some nice patterns and colors.
post #7514 of 12494
My favorite navy stripe that I've found is Lesser 13 oz, ref. number 29722. It will be my next suit from Ercole, double breasted. The stripes are just the right distance apart , with just the right thickness.
post #7515 of 12494
Ah, well-- if 13oz is 3-season to your metabolism, there's no reason to look anywhere else.
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