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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 481

post #7201 of 10753
There are many variations of Super's. It has a certain marketing cache and some are mislead that if a cloth is a Super 150's,etc., it is implying a standard of quality. Not so.

There are qualities within the designations of super's. A lot of cheating goes on with this as well.

A good Super in a 150's, 160's or 180's can be a thing of beauty. There is no sacrifice of durability, or response to tailoring. My personal appreciation is how the cloth responds to change such as altering. How well the old stitch marks are removed or how a crease will come out and then set a new crease. My favorites are Holland & Sherry supers due to how they perform regarding this. The good ones are expensive but reasonable for there luxe performance and hand.
post #7202 of 10753
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post


For Svenn, 11 to 13 ounce cloth in a good weave will offer superior results. The issue going 16 ounce and up is you often sacrifice suppleness in the cloth. This tends to cause a conflict of the cloth to respond to tailoring techniques, iron work or shaping due to the nature of cloth weight. The weight and density will fight against and resist tailoring and diminish the effects of hand sewing. You don't want a hard finish cloth. This is not forgiving to a tailor. Get a cloth 12 to 13 ounce that is supple. Maybe a hopsack.

Any hopsacks from specific books you would recommend?
post #7203 of 10753
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post


mimo, you probably won't get a sharper look using an 8 ounce 130's cashmere. Describe the effect you are looking for from the cloth and listen to your tailors suggestion. Don't use a cloth the tailor isn't fond of using or is not used to working with.

 

I quite understand.  The thing is, in this sartorial wilderness, my tailor is limited in both technical skill and communication.  Were I dealing with someone more accomplished, I would probably ask for the tailor's suggestions before I bought the cloth. Either way, your last point is right of course, but it's so damn hot here all the time that whatever the preference, heavier cloths are pretty much unwearable.

 

So what I'm looking for in this instance is some broad brush tips on styles or constructions that work well with lighter cloths in general.  Thank you for taking the trouble, anyway.

post #7204 of 10753
Quote:
my tailor is limited in both technical skill and communication.

You will be better served if you pick cloth within his comfort zone to work with due to these limitations. Superior cloth is of no benefit if his tailoring skills are lacking.
post #7205 of 10753
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

There are many variations of Super's. It has a certain marketing cache and some are mislead that if a cloth is a Super 150's,etc., it is implying a standard of quality. Not so.

There are qualities within the designations of super's. A lot of cheating goes on with this as well.

A good Super in a 150's, 160's or 180's can be a thing of beauty. There is no sacrifice of durability, or response to tailoring. My personal appreciation is how the cloth responds to change such as altering. How well the old stitch marks are removed or how a crease will come out and then set a new crease. My favorites are Holland & Sherry supers due to how they perform regarding this. The good ones are expensive but reasonable for there luxe performance and hand.

Chris: do you have an opinion on Escorial? Thanks.
post #7206 of 10753
Quote:
Any hopsacks from specific books you would recommend?

Almost every cloth house has a hopsack in a book or two at different weights. Holland & Sherry, Smiths, Harrison's, Harrison's Premier Cru has an 11 ounce version. All these are limited to a few colors and shades. Mainly navy and grey. Gladson has a few this season and show more colors in the new Minnis sample book.

I didn't care for the Scabal I tried, cloth qulity was ok but had too much sheen. Prefer the matte look on hopsack.
post #7207 of 10753
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grammaton Cleric View Post

Chris: do you have an opinion on Escorial? Thanks.

I like it. Has a soft hand so you have to be aware and appreciate the softness.

Just delivered an 8 ounce escorial navy nailhead suit.
post #7208 of 10753
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

I like it. Has a soft hand so you have to be aware and appreciate the softness.

Just delivered an 8 ounce escorial navy nailhead suit.

Great, thanks.

I was looking at the 10-11 oz. Escorials from R&T, and your post ensures that my order will go in soon.
post #7209 of 10753
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grammaton Cleric View Post


Great, thanks.

I was looking at the 10-11 oz. Escorials from R&T, and your post ensures that my order will go in soon.

 

I thought R&T is under administration now.

post #7210 of 10753
Quote:
Originally Posted by sprout2 View Post

I thought R&T is under administration now.

Companies still operate as going concerns under bankruptcy proceedings (airlines would be an obvious example).

They just sent me samples last week.
post #7211 of 10753
Good lord, if airlines couldn't operate when under bankruptcy, the number of flights between any two points would decline by about 75%.
post #7212 of 10753
I can't speak about the quality of R&T Escorial. Haven't used it. I mention this because I did use some non-Lesser Golden Bale cloth and it was pure crap. As Golden Bale is of a higher quality it wasn't the same from another maker.
The Escorial I have used is from Holland &Sherry
post #7213 of 10753
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

I can't speak about the quality of R&T Escorial. Haven't used it. I mention this because I did use some non-Lesser Golden Bale cloth and it was pure crap. As Golden Bale is of a higher quality it wasn't the same from another maker.
The Escorial I have used is from Holland &Sherry

Got it - thank you.
post #7214 of 10753
An odd request, but does anyone have an accurate (or semi-accurate) picture of Minnis flannel 340? I'd like to see if it's right for a project I'm thinking about, and don't want to go through the hassle of requesting just one swatch.
post #7215 of 10753
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post


You will be better served if you pick cloth within his comfort zone to work with due to these limitations. Superior cloth is of no benefit if his tailoring skills are lacking.

 

Thank you again for taking the time to reply.  The detailed knowledge in this thread is extraordinary.

 

In this instance, I have the cloth already and just wondered what broad ideas were sensible for using what I have.  But I will certainly be taking the tailor's advice on what comes next.  

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