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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 476

post #7126 of 11062
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

I love the look and heft of heavy twill, gab, and serge fabrics, but they seem to shine very fast at the seat and around the pockets and such.

I've noticed the same thing on twills (and all of the three you listed are types of twill / diagonal weaves). I suspect - based on my not especially detailed knowledge of weaving - that fabrics which have more of the thread exposed between weaves which you need for a twill leads to more shine.

Plain / poplin weaves would then be the answer.
post #7127 of 11062
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

I love the look and heft of heavy twill, gab, and serge fabrics, but they seem to shine very fast at the seat and around the pockets and such.

Any sense of whether the color of the fabric makes a difference in terms of this type of shine effect? I'm thinking a heavy tan twill could make an excellent odd trouser and wondering if the shine effect would be less pronounced than on say a grey or navy.
post #7128 of 11062
It seems that darker colors it is more apparent so that logic makes sense to me. Maybe I should stick to 16oz fresco for the wintertime.
post #7129 of 11062
An all-fresco wardrobe?
post #7130 of 11062
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

An all-fresco wardrobe?

 

Fresco shoes are nice.

post #7131 of 11062
La Divina Commedia di Dante is quite nice.
post #7132 of 11062
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

La Divina Commedia di Dante is quite nice.

For which sartorial sins are we reserving circles 8 and 9 of hell?
post #7133 of 11062
Lapel flowers, full Windsors, and bracelets.
post #7134 of 11062
Quote:
Originally Posted by archibaldleach View Post

Navy chalkstripe is far more useful and versatile IMO. Houndstooth flannel is more of a "I own this because I can" type of thing. So I guess the question is are you in the practical mindset of adding staples or do you have enough staples that you can buy something just for fun?

Most all of my suits are staples so having some fun at this point is fine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

If you get the suit 3 piece, I recommend extra pants, not because the flannel will wear out (it will, but so what), but because you need suspender pants for the vest but a belted pair is nice for when you don't want to wear the vest.

Don't think I'd get an extra pair of trousers as I just wear suits enough. Not sure I'll ever wear one out as I only wear each suit 5 - 6 times a year. I usually get each suit with side tabs and buttons inside for suspenders if I choose.

Quote:
Originally Posted by S K M View Post

Slewfoot, you might wanna check out these fabrics then: http://grunwald-true-style.com/product/houndstooth-vintage-flannel-suitings-from-mario-zegna/ 

I couldn't pull it off myself, but I think they're very stylish nontheless.

Cheers,
SKM

Good stuff! A pity each cut is only 3.3 meters as I would need more for a 3-piece.

Quote:
Originally Posted by whnay. View Post

For what you do for a living, get the houndstooth 3 piece. You won't regret it. Fox makes a great one.

Yeah, I think so too. I'll probably end up doing the Minnis as the teeth are a bit bigger I believe and the cloth a bit denser. If I was in a warmer climate like you I would probably lean towards the Fox as well.
post #7135 of 11062
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slewfoot View Post

Good stuff! A pity each cut is only 3.3 meters as I would need more for a 3-piece.
 

 

True that. But if you like the stuff you could write him and see if anything could be arranged. Would love to see it made up icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif

post #7136 of 11062
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slewfoot View Post


Yeah, I think so too. I'll probably end up doing the Minnis as the teeth are a bit bigger I believe and the cloth a bit denser. If I was in a warmer climate like you I would probably lean towards the Fox as well.

It's the houndstooth flannel still available from Minnis? Haven't seen it on the website for a long time.
post #7137 of 11062
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

If you get the suit 3 piece, I recommend extra pants, not because the flannel will wear out (it will, but so what), but because you need suspender pants for the vest but a belted pair is nice for when you don't want to wear the vest.

Or just get the trousers with belt loops, which will not show under the waistcoat when properly fitted and worn with the braces - this is what we peasants do cheers.gif
bigstar[1].gif
post #7138 of 11062
Quote:
Originally Posted by Butler View Post

Or just get the trousers with belt loops, which will not show under the waistcoat when properly fitted and worn with the braces - this is what we peasants do cheers.gif
bigstar[1].gif


Heresy!!! devil.gif
post #7139 of 11062
Quote:
Originally Posted by tchoy View Post

It's the houndstooth flannel still available from Minnis? Haven't seen it on the website for a long time.

I actually looked into this yesterday myself and it seems the houndstooth being referred to is number 0656 from the Classic collection:
https://hfwltd.com/shop/Products.aspx?id=32

At least Steed refers to this one as a houndstooth flannel:
https://twitter.com/SteedTailors/status/313710163074875392
post #7140 of 11062
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantabrigian View Post


I find that it will bag around the knees before anything other type of cloth (I don't own tweed trousers so maybe a loosely-woven tweed will wear out faster).

Flannel seems reluctant to hold its shape after a bit of wear - pockets droop a little, etc. I imagine that's part of the charm but I don't especially like that aspect and wear flannel suits sparingly for that reason (in addition to the fact that I'm almost always warm).

 

I have a pair of tweed trousers and they bag like crazy, but get back in shape easily with pressing. I made the mistake of getting them quite slim, and did the same thing with a pair of flannels, which bag quite a bit at the knees as well. I have another pair of flannels with wider legs that I wore a lot last season and it hasn't bagged or drooped at all, maybe it needs more wear...

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