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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 455

post #6811 of 11754
Looks diseased. I suggest rubbing Accutane all over that coat.
post #6812 of 11754
Quote:
Originally Posted by terrorsquad View Post

Looks like a mixture of linen and silk to me.And I know Drapers has a book that has something similar

Thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley View Post

Looks diseased. I suggest rubbing Accutane all over that coat.

Now that you've mentioned it ... what with all the red dots.
post #6813 of 11754
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishball View Post

oh, yes, VBC flannel is much softer if you like.
My Scabal flannel is also softer.
But I like the LL EIP hands anyway.

Hi Fishball, since I am also in Hong Kong and admire the stiffer English fabric, which maintain the shape better, could you advise the weight of jacketing you recommend for 4 seasons in Hong Kong? I am trying to go for nicer fabric that will not melt me in aummer. Thanks.
post #6814 of 11754
Quote:
Originally Posted by obama View Post

Hi Fishball, since I am also in Hong Kong and admire the stiffer English fabric, which maintain the shape better, could you advise the weight of jacketing you recommend for 4 seasons in Hong Kong? I am trying to go for nicer fabric that will not melt me in aummer. Thanks.

I believe thats a bad idea. It is better to have a fresco weave from JJ Minnis or Smith Woolens for the Spring/Summer, and a good flannel or heavy wool worsted for Autumn/Winter.

It is good to have stuff specific for the season, rather than looking for 3 season fabrics. They are usually not cool enough for HK's summer, and too thin and breathable for HK's winter.

However, I must say that heavy fabrics have limited usage in Hong Kong, but it does not mean you don't need it.
post #6815 of 11754
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

I believe thats a bad idea. It is better to have a fresco weave from JJ Minnis or Smith Woolens for the Spring/Summer, and a good flannel or heavy wool worsted for Autumn/Winter.

It is good to have stuff specific for the season, rather than looking for 3 season fabrics. They are usually not cool enough for HK's summer, and too thin and breathable for HK's winter.

However, I must say that heavy fabrics have limited usage in Hong Kong, but it does not mean you don't need it.

Thanks for your advice 911.

May I ask specially what is the weight you are wearing for 4 seasons?
Summer: 8-9oz fresco?
Winter; ?? Oz flannel 9or ?? Oz worsted wool? Maybe?
Spring/ autumn: ??

Sorry I am completely noob and just want to have a starting point.

Thanks
post #6816 of 11754
In the summer here in NYC I wear 8/9 and 10oz Fresco. I have some 8oz plain weave as well. I have a few 4 season suits that are in the 11-12oz range. The winter I wear things over 14oz.
post #6817 of 11754
Summer: Under 9oz. (Fresco, Lesser Super Tropical, Rangoon, Linen) Early Summer / Winter, Spring / Fall: 11oz.- 13oz. (Lesser, Blue Riband, Botany, Dugdale Royal Classic) Winter: Mainly flannels and saxonys (13oz. and above - Fox, Marling & Evans, Minnis). A lot of tweed sportcoats.
post #6818 of 11754
Quote:
Originally Posted by obama View Post

Thanks for your advice 911.

May I ask specially what is the weight you are wearing for 4 seasons?
Summer: 8-9oz fresco?
Winter; ?? Oz flannel 9or ?? Oz worsted wool? Maybe?
Spring/ autumn: ??

Sorry I am completely noob and just want to have a starting point.

Thanks

In Hong Kong, I believe one should have suitings for the really hot days in the summer and the windy breezy weather in the winter.

I prefer kid mohair mix and fresco 9-10oz for summer, and stuff like English town classics and heavy flannel for winter.

Above by ET sums up very nicely. You may also get a mid weight overcoat.
post #6819 of 11754
Yes they are very useful. Thanks much!
post #6820 of 11754
Thinking of making this fabric into a suit.

2 piece. Unlined, soft shouldered/unconstructed. Sort of a casual vibe.

What thinks the collective? I was originally thinking of something lighter, more in a tan, but this brown is attractive. Would it go well in a suit of the type I am describing?


post #6821 of 11754



Hi all, I am in the midst of finding a fabric for a winter suit, whose jacket can also be used as a SC. I came across the above pic and love everything of the suit. Could anyone recommend a similar English fabric in color, weave, pattern, weight, touch etc for me to experiment? I also lean to the book of Minnis, Lesser, Harrison. I heard some good words on their flannel and heavy heavy fabric. Thanks.
post #6822 of 11754
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kai View Post

Thinking of making this fabric into a suit.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
2 piece. Unlined, soft shouldered/unconstructed. Sort of a casual vibe.

What thinks the collective? I was originally thinking of something lighter, more in a tan, but this brown is attractive. Would it go well in a suit of the type I am describing?



Why do it in silk? It makes for a very louchey type of suit. More lounge lizard than general "casual". Why not make it out of linen instead? If you hate wrinkles, then fresco?
post #6823 of 11754
Quote:
Originally Posted by obama View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Hi all, I am in the midst of finding a fabric for a winter suit, whose jacket can also be used as a SC. I came across the above pic and love everything of the suit. Could anyone recommend a similar English fabric in color, weave, pattern, weight, touch etc for me to experiment? I also lean to the book of Minnis, Lesser, Harrison. I heard some good words on their flannel and heavy heavy fabric. Thanks.

It looks like jacketing to me and not a suit. You can take a look at the Harrison Glorious Twelve 25332 that looks similar is around 330 grams. Having seen too many herringbone patterns in flannel, tweed is your best bet.
Edited by tchoy - 7/12/13 at 5:29am
post #6824 of 11754
Chalk stripe flannel really doesn't make a good odd jacket.
post #6825 of 11754
I have no idea what "louchey" means.

Silk because I love the look of dupioni. Not much sheen to it. Most people don't even recognize it as silk, but the texture and hand is very nice. I prefer dupioni to linen not just for wrinkle resistance, but pretty much across the board.

Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

Why do it in silk? It makes for a very louchey type of suit. More lounge lizard than general "casual". Why not make it out of linen instead? If you hate wrinkles, then fresco?
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