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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 438

post #6556 of 10913
Quote:
Originally Posted by S K M View Post

Just came across these photos on Vanda's blog. Would anyone know where I could get some fabric like this?







I think it looks pretty awesome for a casual shirt. Vanda describes it as " natural indigo yarn dyed, shuttle loom woven selvedge chambray." Hmm...

Thanks in advance!

Cheers,
SKM

Japanese.
i don't know of anywhere that sells this in cut lengths.
goes straight to the designer who ordered it.
rarely ends up in the secondary market.
too expensive for distributors to buy for resale.
post #6557 of 10913
Quote:
Originally Posted by P. Bateman View Post

Question on interlinings / fusibles:

For a cotton shirt, what are the thoughts on cotton-poly blend vs. 100% cotton for the collar and cuff interlining? I believe both a cotton-poly blend and a 100% cotton will shrink and expand at the same rate as the cotton shirt fabric.
feel sort of weird
Thanks!
stick to 100% cotton lining and fusible.
100% poly or blends are not very good quality.
in fact the poly blend fusible is noticeable to the touch.
i think some RTW shirts with very soft fusible are using poly fusible.
i would have to take one apart to be sure.

I have used pellon and lvery light weight Non-woven fusible for stabilization on certain fabrics like
silk or polyester garments.
post #6558 of 10913
I like that Vanda shirt a lot except for that selvedge placket. It's a little obnoxious.
post #6559 of 10913
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shirtmaven View Post


Japanese.
i don't know of anywhere that sells this in cut lengths.
goes straight to the designer who ordered it.
rarely ends up in the secondary market.
too expensive for distributors to buy for resale.

 

Thanks a lot or your reply, I feared something like what you describe was the case...

post #6560 of 10913
I recently bought some LL linen shirtings. So far, all my linen shirts have been made with a French front, but I'm somewhat thinking of getting a traditional placket with these so that the front holds a straighter line when buttoned. Anyone have thoughts?
post #6561 of 10913
I've been in a placket mood, lately.
Edited by NOBD - 6/17/13 at 1:46pm
post #6562 of 10913
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

I recently bought some LL linen shirtings. So far, all my linen shirts have been made with a French front, but I'm somewhat thinking of getting a traditional placket with these so that the front holds a straighter line when buttoned. Anyone have thoughts?

This is exactly why I get a placket on all of my shirts.
post #6563 of 10913
Why are fresco trousers so damn good?
post #6564 of 10913
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

OK, I am thinking of a new summer suit. I have much experience with Minnis Fresco, was thinking of the lightest weight. But I have heard good things about some new H&S called "Cool Breeze" which is supposed to be about one ounce lighter.

Any experience/comparisons?

 

If I recall correctly I have been browsing through that book. The hand was very nice, but the weave was not as open as fresco, so I'm not sure it will wear any cooler. I liked Cape Horn better - it was like CrispAire but without the harsh hand , and comes in a lighter weight.

post #6565 of 10913

I am looking to find a source for a mid-heavy weight (12-16oz.) wool flannel in mid to light gray for a pair of odd trousers. They will be for a large 44" waist, so my questions would be how many yards/meters? Is there a quality/cost pinnacle? I have a bespoke pair that I will be having copied, but yet to see the workmanship from the tailor, so I do not want to start with over the top/top of the line just yet.

 

Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. Just my second post here so be easy.

 

David-

post #6566 of 10913
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidLane View Post

I am looking to find a source for a mid-heavy weight (12-16oz.) wool flannel in mid to light gray for a pair of odd trousers. They will be for a large 44" waist, so my questions would be how many yards/meters? Is there a quality/cost pinnacle? I have a bespoke pair that I will be having copied, but yet to see the workmanship from the tailor, so I do not want to start with over the top/top of the line just yet.

 

Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. Just my second post here so be easy.

 

David-

Any reputable English mill who runs a flannel collection will have a 12-16oz. mid-grey suitable for trousers. Fox, Harrison's, J&J Minnis, Marling & Evans etc.

 

Personally, I would go with Fox Flannel's 16oz. mid-grey.

post #6567 of 10913
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slickman View Post

Why are fresco trousers so damn good?

Fresco good, but linen better!
post #6568 of 10913
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slickman View Post

Why are fresco trousers so damn good?

Summer breezes, and the living is easy....
post #6569 of 10913
Linen is better, maybe when I have my own office I'll allow it
post #6570 of 10913

Sweat just a little bit in linen and you won't get it to dry for the whole day. I much prefer fresco. In fact yesterday I got a new pair of ivory CrispAire odd trousers and I like the cloth so much I might end up ordering a matching jacket...  would make a nice summer suit.

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