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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 404

post #6046 of 11699
Hi guys,

I would be in Florence, Italy. For two weeks starting from 15/04/13 onwards.

Could i kindly request if anyone is willing to share the contact details of Zegna or Loro Piana fabric suppliers?

Thanks!
post #6047 of 11699
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ataturk View Post

The shirtmaker usually only draws the pattern on the cloth and cuts it out, if he even does that. He's not going to iron it himself.

And in the case of solid or unpatterned fabric it's going to be harder, not easier, to get it straight before doing that.

Here's Kabbaz (who is pretty much infallible on the subject of shirts, we all know):

http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?102207-Caveat-Emptor-Pre-Washing-Shirt-Fabric-Is-It-Essential

If people ekeing out a living likely barely above the poverty line in India can pre-wash and (gasp) iron my patterned poplins and voiles properly, then it's a non-issue. Unless of course some first world tailor wants to play it up so that he can justify charging you $500 a shirt.

It's a oh my latte is too hot type when its freshly made problem - i.e. a non-problem. The amount of focus you're giving it, heck the fact that you're even focusing on it, is IMO pretty ridiculous.
post #6048 of 11699
Quote:
Originally Posted by apropos View Post

If people ekeing out a living likely barely above the poverty line in India can pre-wash and (gasp) iron my patterned poplins and voiles properly, then it's a non-issue. Unless of course some first world tailor wants to play it up so that he can justify charging you $500 a shirt.

It's a oh my latte is too hot type when its freshly made problem - i.e. a non-problem. The amount of focus you're giving it, heck the fact that you're even focusing on it, is IMO pretty ridiculous.

Why do you want to talk about India, where labor is cheap and they probably do that out of necessity because they often deal with unsanforized (i.e., not preshrunk) fabrics? You generally don't need to prewash fabric after it's been preshrunk by the mill in a way that carefully keeps it straight and stable to be worked with. Shirtmakers know it's still going to shrink more. They'll preshrink the collar fabric (much more rigorously than just washing it once or twice) and put an allowance into the rest of the shirt.

And all I said was that you ought to ask your tailor before you screw with the cloth you bring him. You're the one who's talking out of his posterior trying to find some reason to ignore good advice.
post #6049 of 11699
Has anyone purchased cloth from Caccioppoli before? I requested fabric samples and they were very prompt in sending them to me. I am now getting ready to place my order and was told that I can only pay via bank transfer. I believe they are reputable, but it made me wonder how I would pay for my purchase if I were ever to visit them in Naples, i.e. would I have to buy the cloth in cash? I can understand "cash only" for smaller operations, but I was under the impression that they were quite large.
post #6050 of 11699
Quote:
Originally Posted by dan'l View Post

Has anyone purchased cloth from Caccioppoli before? I requested fabric samples and they were very prompt in sending them to me. I am now getting ready to place my order and was told that I can only pay via bank transfer. I believe they are reputable, but it made me wonder how I would pay for my purchase if I were ever to visit them in Naples, i.e. would I have to buy the cloth in cash? I can understand "cash only" for smaller operations, but I was under the impression that they were quite large.
Yes they are quite big, but set up to deal with tailors and distributors that would pay by cheque or bank transfer. Individual clients would pay by cash or debit card ( I believed I used a card there once, cannot remember though).
post #6051 of 11699
BTW, Simon Crompton at Permanent Style today wrote a guide to Huddersfield mills & merchants, which helpfully explains which labels belong to & are marketed by whom:
post #6052 of 11699
New suit.
Huddersfieldcloth - BLUE MOHAIR PLAIN (240 grams / 8 Oz)

post #6053 of 11699
Quote:
Originally Posted by dan'l View Post

Has anyone purchased cloth from Caccioppoli before? I requested fabric samples and they were very prompt in sending them to me. I am now getting ready to place my order and was told that I can only pay via bank transfer. I believe they are reputable, but it made me wonder how I would pay for my purchase if I were ever to visit them in Naples, i.e. would I have to buy the cloth in cash? I can understand "cash only" for smaller operations, but I was under the impression that they were quite large.

 

I'm curious - how reasonable is their pricing? They have some lovely sportcoatings.

post #6054 of 11699
Quote:
Originally Posted by dan'l View Post

Has anyone purchased cloth from Caccioppoli before? I requested fabric samples and they were very prompt in sending them to me. I am now getting ready to place my order and was told that I can only pay via bank transfer. I believe they are reputable, but it made me wonder how I would pay for my purchase if I were ever to visit them in Naples, i.e. would I have to buy the cloth in cash? I can understand "cash only" for smaller operations, but I was under the impression that they were quite large.

I ordered some fabric from them and service was great. Had to pay with bank transfer but transaction was smooth. Would love to visit their shop in person as the photos on their blog show a large selection.
post #6055 of 11699
Not a very well crafted piece by crompton.
post #6056 of 11699
Harrisons has issued a small book which shows close-ups of a number of different weaves for suiting, jacketing and coats.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=522112917826521&set=a.375889852448829.77779.361736983864116&type=1&theater
post #6057 of 11699
Has anyone bought the guide?
post #6058 of 11699
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

Has anyone bought the guide?

I have it.To be honest, its the same as the guide that Apropos has linked
post #6059 of 11699
Anyone have any recommendations for cream dinner jacket fabric. I received 2 samples from smiths and 1 from lessers, none of them really wow me, maybe it will look different when made up, any suggestions?
post #6060 of 11699
Have balls, go for linen or silk.
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