or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 401

post #6001 of 10756
I may know,. let me juse double check before saying anything.

BBBF shirts have been an utter bust on me. They have fallen apart, the fabric is cheap, collar is awful.
post #6002 of 10756
For anyone that is interested, I called Smith's Woolens today and they do in fact sell to individuals. The man I spoke to, David, quoted me a price of 80 pounds (ex-VAT) per meter for a navy hopsack in the Steadfast line. The best way to communicate with them is via email at sales@smithwoollens.co.uk.
post #6003 of 10756
Quote:
Originally Posted by Liquidus View Post

For anyone that is interested, I called Smith's Woolens today and they do in fact sell to individuals.

Was there ever any doubt about that? The only thing is you get stuck paying the non-trade price.
post #6004 of 10756
Quote:
Originally Posted by Baron View Post

I find that my Mercer cloth is a lot softer and lighter than the Black Fleece oxford cloth. I prefer the Mercer - it's a looser weave with nice texture and that Black Fleece cloth is so thick that won't lay flat under a sweater, and it can be uncomfortable around the waist when tucked in. I've owned the BF shirts longer so they've been washed more, too

Agreed. I don't think of Mercer oxford cloth as heavy and rough. Compared to standard Brooks Brothers, it is appreciably lighter and softer.
post #6005 of 10756
Quote:
Originally Posted by emptym View Post

I have a CEGO ocbd from the deadstock made in the US oxford cloth. I'm not sure if it's what you're looking for, but it's very nice. I could show it to you irl sometime, D, and we could compare it to the Mercer if you'd like.

That'd be great, M. Thanks for the offer. I have to return the shirt I currently have to them, as it's not mine to keep, but I plan on ordering one for myself. I don't think it'll fit me but I figured I'd at least give it a try. May need to size down one on the collar and two in the body.
Quote:
Originally Posted by edmorel View Post

I may know,. let me juse double check before saying anything.

Thanks for checking, Ed. It'd be great to know.
post #6006 of 10756
I suspect that if Mercer got their oxford cloth from a U.S. source, they'd say so in no uncertain terms, as their brand is so tied to the appeal of being "made in USA."
post #6007 of 10756
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Was there ever any doubt about that? The only thing is you get stuck paying the non-trade price.

I'm sure it has been discussed in the past but is it generally true that tailors do not add any mark-up to their cloth price?
post #6008 of 10756
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Was there ever any doubt about that? The only thing is you get stuck paying the non-trade price.

There was for me, as I'm new to the process of buying fabric. If I'm doing this right, I would be paying $240 plus shipping & duty for 2 meters of fabric for a jacket. My tailor will do a CMT jacket for $700 while he quoted me $1,400 for a jacket using the fabric I'm buying. He buys fabric through Isles Textiles so maybe they're making a big profit on resale.

edit: Called Isles Textiles and they quoted me $150 per yard for fabrics in the Steadfast book.
Edited by Liquidus - 4/9/13 at 11:57am
post #6009 of 10756
Quote:
Originally Posted by bertie View Post

I'm sure it has been discussed in the past but is it generally true that tailors do not add any mark-up to their cloth price?

Don't know--but CMT is far from always cheaper. Whatever price the tailors are paying and charging, at lease some of the benefit apparently gets passed onto the client.
post #6010 of 10756
Quote:
Originally Posted by Liquidus View Post

For anyone that is interested, I called Smith's Woolens today and they do in fact sell to individuals. The man I spoke to, David, quoted me a price of 80 pounds (ex-VAT) per meter for a navy hopsack in the Steadfast line. The best way to communicate with them is via email at sales@smithwoollens.co.uk.

That is crazily expensive.
post #6011 of 10756
Quote:
Originally Posted by bertie View Post

I'm sure it has been discussed in the past but is it generally true that tailors do not add any mark-up to their cloth price?

Actually, in my experience the opposite is usually true. Most, but not all, of the tailors I have used mark up the price of goods. In fact, there was a time not so long ago that mils, nerchants and their agents would not sell to the public in part to allow tailors to make a profit on cloth.
post #6012 of 10756
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

That'd be great, M. Thanks for the offer. I have to return the shirt I currently have to them, as it's not mine to keep, but I plan on ordering one for myself. I don't think it'll fit me but I figured I'd at least give it a try. May need to size down one on the collar and two in the body..
No prob. To tide you over till then, here a pic of the OCBD, worn and washed a few times, but unironed here:
AppleMark

Close-up of the old made in the US fabric. The yarns are mostly consistent, but you can make out a few small slubs in this pic:
AppleMark
post #6013 of 10756
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

I know the shirting word of the day is chambray, but does anyone know where Mercer gets their oxford cloth? It's unlike any other I've handled. Uniquely rough, heavy, and almost somewhat stiff. I assume it's made in the US. I'd love to source some of it and send it to my shirtmaker, as now every other oxford cloth seems unsatisfying. Anyone know?

The Alumo oxford is - surprisingly to me a least - heavy with a lot of body. It feels like oxford, but not any rougher than usual.

I'm assuming that you're more after body than scratchiness and, if so, I'd have a look at that stuff. It's more than you want to spend on an OCBD but it makes a heck of a shirt.
post #6014 of 10756
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantabrigian View Post

The Alumo oxford is - surprisingly to me a least - heavy with a lot of body. It feels like oxford, but not any rougher than usual.

I'm assuming that you're more after body than scratchiness and, if so, I'd have a look at that stuff. It's more than you want to spend on an OCBD but it makes a heck of a shirt.

I have a few shirts in this fabric and I highly recommended as well. My are few years old and it has hold up well and it does soften up over time.
post #6015 of 10756
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

That is crazily expensive.

LL hopsack is even more
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread