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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 395

post #5911 of 12540
Quote:
Originally Posted by johanm View Post

I have a suit made from Smith Botany 3912, same plain weave as 3913 (not hopsack) but one shade lighter, and I consider it to be very much a smooth business worsted. The navy hopsack from the Steadfast line, which I have in a blazer, is significantly more rustic and textured.

Are you saying that 3913 is not a hopsack, but a plain weave? What's the number of your Steadfast hopsack? Thanks.
post #5912 of 12540
Quote:
Originally Posted by Liquidus View Post

Are you saying that 3913 is not a hopsack, but a plain weave? What's the number of your Steadfast hopsack? Thanks.

Don't know the Steadfast number; know the Botany one because I have the swatches. I believe hopsack is a subset of plain weave, where instead of single yarns being woven in the criss cross pattern, groups of >2 yarns are so woven to give a "basketweave" effect. It could be that the Botany 3912/3913 are technically hopsack by this definition, but regardless they are as smooth or smoother than the Botany twills, and the Steadfast hopsack has significantly wider warp/weft groups. That said, the Botany plain weaves are outstanding and wear much lighter than their 13 oz weight.
post #5913 of 12540

I recieved my Minnis 8/9 oz fresco today (0500). I am planning on getting a half-lined suit made from it for summer with unlined trousers. I just hope that they aren't too transparent.

 

post #5914 of 12540

Very nice

post #5915 of 12540
Quote:
Originally Posted by johanm View Post

Don't know the Steadfast number; know the Botany one because I have the swatches. I believe hopsack is a subset of plain weave, where instead of single yarns being woven in the criss cross pattern, groups of >2 yarns are so woven to give a "basketweave" effect. It could be that the Botany 3912/3913 are technically hopsack by this definition, but regardless they are as smooth or smoother than the Botany twills, and the Steadfast hopsack has significantly wider warp/weft groups. That said, the Botany plain weaves are outstanding and wear much lighter than their 13 oz weight.

Thanks for the feedback. I'll look into the steadfast.
post #5916 of 12540
Ordered three suit lengths of Minnis Fresco (0511, 0520 and 0569), but I had it shipped directly to my tailor; they have not really been unfunded for a long time...

Does anybody have any pictures of unlined 2-ply fresco garments?
post #5917 of 12540
Quote:
Originally Posted by P-K-L View Post

Ordered three suit lengths of Minnis Fresco (0511, 0520 and 0569), but I had it shipped directly to my tailor; they have not really been unfunded for a long time...

Does anybody have any pictures of unlined 2-ply fresco garments?
Your fabrics are all an ounce heavier than the one I got, as well as 2-ply vs "high twist"

I'm leaning towards unlined as well, but I still have some doubts due to the fabric's transparency
post #5918 of 12540
Quote:
Originally Posted by msulinski View Post


Your fabrics are all an ounce heavier than the one I got, as well as 2-ply vs "high twist"

I'm leaning towards unlined as well, but I still have some doubts due to the fabric's transparency

I'd like to know how all this works out! Keep us posted, hopefully with pictures.

post #5919 of 12540
I have two Fresco coats: one beige and one Slewfoot brown. Haven't really had issues with transparency, but the are lined across the shoulder and upper back.
post #5920 of 12540
Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerC View Post

I have two Fresco coats: one beige and one Slewfoot brown. Haven't really had issues with transparency, but the are lined across the shoulder and upper back.

The jacket will be half or quarter-lined (not sure which, but upper back is covered either way). Even if someone can see through parts of the jacket a little in bright light, at least I am wearing a shirt underneath. I have seen this issue in a lot of photographs, but I suspect it is only due to the flash, and not actually transparent all the time. See-through trousers concern me though.

post #5921 of 12540
Quote:
Originally Posted by msulinski View Post

The jacket will be half or quarter-lined (not sure which, but upper back is covered either way). Even if someone can see through parts of the jacket a little in bright light, at least I am wearing a shirt underneath. I have seen this issue in a lot of photographs, but I suspect it is only due to the flash, and not actually transparent all the time. See-through trousers concern me though.
I know it is a bit weird but I fully lined (front and back!) my fresco pants to avoid see-thru effect....They are so damn heavy then!icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
post #5922 of 12540
this may or may not interest you guys:

As some of you know I'm bit of a history buff, and I love good vintage stuff. I've had two overcoats made in some very old (1960s and 1930s) fabrics. Yesterday, i went back to the shop where I picked up the Burgundy fabric that made my Capone Coat:


I managed to grab three more extremely interesting pieces, one of which is VERY old. The first two are more interesting than anything else. Firstly, a Holland & Sherry coating I'm thinking of doing a casual coat with, maybe a pea coat, or maybe just a single breasted piece. What i love about it is that its double sided:


Blue Grey Twill on one side:

Black and Grey Houndstooth on the other:



Would love to hear suggestions, though if go a heavy SC, I may do it in the twill,with the houndstooth as the hip patch pockets.

Next is a beautiful brown melange wool (I guess you'd call it that) from 1945:




Its heavy, but nothing nutso, like some older cloths. I'm thinking this will make a nice Polo Coat.

Lastly, what I think may be as old as the early 1900s (Detmer Woolens have been around since 1885, moved from manhattan to Brooklyn in 1909 after a fire in their Manhattan Offices) based on the weight of the cloth, and the handwriting "Sponged" on the tag, in a beautiful subtle herringbone in what I'd call an espressso brown:






This thing just screams Great Coat to me.

Thought you guys would like to see these. I also picked up a few other lighter weight 1930s woolens from the same place that we'll be using for Yellow Hook that I'm pretty stoked about.
post #5923 of 12540
That is really, really cool NYI. Can't wait to see how they look made up.
post #5924 of 12540
Good stuff Rob!
post #5925 of 12540
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maccimus View Post

I know it is a bit weird but I fully lined (front and back!) my fresco pants to avoid see-thru effect....They are so damn heavy then!icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif

I line all of my fresco in emerzine, which makes them only marginally less see through.
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