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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 387

post #5791 of 11663
I have an unfunded liability that soon will become funded, a black and white herringbone jacketing. This will become a spring/autumn casual jacket, and so I was thinking about patch pockets (maybe flapped), and double stitching on lapels, pockets, etc. The one decision I still need to make is whether I should have it unstructured or not. Suggestions?

post #5792 of 11663
Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerC View Post

I have an unfunded liability that soon will become funded, a black and white herringbone jacketing. This will become a spring/autumn casual jacket, and so I was thinking about patch pockets (maybe flapped), and double stitching on lapels, pockets, etc. The one decision I still need to make is whether I should have it unstructured or not. Suggestions?


Go for the classic british cut, a slanted flapped pocket will work well. Fully lined
post #5793 of 11663
When I was in high school I worked at a garden center and customers used to come in and ask me, "I want a shrub that has flowers all summer, can grow well in the shade, doesn't need a lot of water, and that the deer don't eat." I used to reply by saying, "A fake shrub." I hope this question doesn't get a similar styled answer:

I am looking for a heavy suiting that holds a crease and isn't prone to shine. I wanted to get a twill, or gab, but Frank says they are very shine prone. Maybe something twill, with a slight fuzz, to it? Not as smooth? Does anything exist like this around 13oz?
post #5794 of 11663
I have no personal experience, but have heard good things about Dugdale's old English Classics bunch, as well as Harrison's P&B books.
post #5795 of 11663
Thanks I will have to look at those.
post #5796 of 11663
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post


Overcoating? C'mon, man, that's perfect for a three-season suit.

 

Sator?

post #5797 of 11663
Sharkskin is a type of twill weave. Smiths Botany has a good selection.

PS 13oz aint heavy.
post #5798 of 11663
Sharkskin is shiny though. 13+ I should say.
post #5799 of 11663
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

Go for the classic british cut, a slanted flapped pocket will work well. Fully lined

Thanks. Do you mean lined or structured, by the way?
post #5800 of 11663
The Botany is a little fuzzy or surface texture. You might like it. Ask Frank if he has the book.
post #5801 of 11663
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

When I was in high school I worked at a garden center and customers used to come in and ask me, "I want a shrub that has flowers all summer, can grow well in the shade, doesn't need a lot of water, and that the deer don't eat." I used to reply by saying, "A fake shrub." I hope this question doesn't get a similar styled answer:

I am looking for a heavy suiting that holds a crease and isn't prone to shine. I wanted to get a twill, or gab, but Frank says they are very shine prone. Maybe something twill, with a slight fuzz, to it? Not as smooth? Does anything exist like this around 13oz?

Birdseyes, pindots and sharkskins are all twill weaves that hold a crease and last forever. I don't think any of them, including sharkskin, are inherently shiny, and they do not tend to develop a shine. If you want something with a bit of fuzz look for a worsted with a semi-milled finish like Botany. There also were Lesser 13 oz that fit that description in the past, but I don't know about current books.
post #5802 of 11663
Both the Smith Botany and Lesser 13 oz books have some references that are smooth/hard finished, and some with a hairy quasi-flannelly finish. The latter is slightly more matte and wears a bit warmer.
post #5803 of 11663
Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerC View Post

Thanks. Do you mean lined or structured, by the way?

Sorry, I do mean fully lined and structured cut, the typical English clean look will serve the cloth better.
post #5804 of 11663
Quote:
Originally Posted by johanm View Post

Both the Smith Botany and Lesser 13 oz books have some references that are smooth/hard finished, and some with a hairy quasi-flannelly finish. The latter is slightly more matte and wears a bit warmer.

For me, the Lesser 13 oz has been my favorite suiting in terms of look and utility.
post #5805 of 11663
Thanks guys all great ideas.
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