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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 383

post #5731 of 11663
I have a navy hopsack jacket made out of Smith Steadfast 14/15oz. Love the cloth, very rustic feeling. I'm not sure if they have separate "hopsack" and "plain weave" versions in the book, because the one I have feels more like a sportcoat cloth than something I would typically get for a suit.
post #5732 of 11663
I'm looking for a fabric similar to this to make an overcoat. I've looked at a few houndstooths, but would much prefer a small check as in the photo. Preferably tweed and preferably a heavier weight 17 or 18 oz +.

post #5733 of 11663
Does anyone know where I could source some Rangoon in a plain Navy? I know it's discontinued, but a few bolts seem to pop up every now and then. I've heard it's exceptional cloth and quite suited to my climate.
Edited by Naka - 3/16/13 at 12:32am
post #5734 of 11663
Bill,

That solid mid-grey hopsack is really nice. I mean, really nice.
post #5735 of 11663
Quote:
Originally Posted by whnay. View Post

XcxNfCsl.jpg

Finally, a medium gray
I have the medium gray LH hopsack and I want to wear it all the time. lol8[1].gif

Seriously, I like the grey windowpane, it's pretty boss.
post #5736 of 11663
This isn't of much help, whnay, but FWIW, I've read good things about Smith's Steadfast hopsacks, either on this board or LL (can't recall). I asked Steed if they could send me some swatches of it in navy, as I was considering using it for a BlazerSuit I'm hoping to have made.
post #5737 of 11663
Quote:
Originally Posted by Naka View Post

Does anyone know where I could source some Rangoon in a plain Navy. I know it's discontinued, but a few bolts seem to pop up every now and then. I've herd it's exceptional cloth and quite suited to my climate.

Check with ~ B ~ I got a bolt off him last year. Rangoon is great cloth for our warmer weather. You could check out H Lesser Tropical as well.
post #5738 of 11663
Quote:
Originally Posted by coolpapa View Post


I have the medium gray LH hopsack and I want to wear it all the time. lol8[1].gif

Seriously, I like the grey windowpane, it's pretty boss.

Oh that looks wonderful.

post #5739 of 11663
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

This isn't of much help, whnay, but FWIW, I've read good things about Smith's Steadfast hopsacks, either on this board or LL (can't recall). I asked Steed if they could send me some swatches of it in navy, as I was considering using it for a BlazerSuit I'm hoping to have made.

Please share a pic of the swatch if you receive one.

post #5740 of 11663
I’ve been looking for something in navy blue with a chalk windowpane, similar to the pic below (gentleman on the right):



It is for an odd jacket and not a suit. Now, when I browse the fabric books of various mills, they use terms such as “jacketing” or “suiting” fabric. Could I use a suiting fabric for a sport coat, provided that I made it with SC “features,” such as patch pockets? Or is there some other intrinsic quality of suiting fabric that makes it unsuitable for sport coats? I thought that worsted fabrics were generally reserved for suits, but I have definitely seen “worsted jacketing” fabric advertised by some mills.
post #5741 of 11663

I'm not sure what the consensus is, but I would not use suiting fabrics for an odd jacket (unless the suiting is a navy hopsack or serge and I want to have a blazer made). On the other hand, I would use jacketings to make casual suits if they are strong enough for pants. tongue.gif

 

The "odd jacket" above looks like a suit jacket to me. If you want to have windowpane for an odd jacket, maybe use a colour that is not commonly seen on suits (which might just happen to be on a jacketing book), but not navy or grey.

post #5742 of 11663
Is that because suiting fabric is too smooth/shiny/whatever and may look a bit funny made up as an odd jacket? Or perhaps it's the generally conservative patterns and tones of suiting cloth?

Yes, it might be part of a suit (those guys are from Ring Jacket). However, I have definitely seen sport coats from RJ in navy blue windowpane, though not up close to determine the weave (i.e. hopsack, etc.).
post #5743 of 11663
The Steadfast navy blue hopsack made up:

post #5744 of 11663
Quote:
Originally Posted by dan'l View Post

Is that because suiting fabric is too smooth/shiny/whatever and may look a bit funny made up as an odd jacket? Or perhaps it's the generally conservative patterns and tones of suiting cloth?

Yes, it might be part of a suit (those guys are from Ring Jacket). However, I have definitely seen sport coats from RJ in navy blue windowpane, though not up close to determine the weave (i.e. hopsack, etc.).

I'm still not sure myself. Spring/summer wool odd jackets are generally worsted, just like suits, but the pattern and colour is what makes them distinguishable. I guess it is a mix of both things, and maybe a navy windowpane might work as an odd jacket, but I think it would just be safer to think of it as a suit.

post #5745 of 11663
Quote:
Originally Posted by coolpapa View Post

I have the medium gray LH hopsack and I want to wear it all the time. lol8[1].gif

Seriously, I like the grey windowpane, it's pretty boss.
I may just get both. I had initially wanted to get one blue and one gray but those two are le shit.
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