Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 361

I've considered that as an option - or at least, I was thinking like a cream open-weave and crispy wool. But linen could be good too. Too naval though?

Except for black tie, I guess I am less fussy about evening wear vs. day wear. If I am going out to a gathering that calls for a sportcoat, I will just wear whatever sportcoat I like. I suspect others here feel differently.

Yes but you know this already.

At the end of the day I think you are over thinking this thing. Buy the suit, wear it and be done with it. If you want a nice pair of cream odd trousers build something else around it.

I'm not anti experimenting when it comes to mens clothes but as long as I've been around, "experimenting" with black tie/evening suits usually leads to disaster. A black, peak lapel jacket really has no place in anything other than an evening/dinner suit.

It's not black dammit! Anyway I've really enjoyed the midnight blue velvet evening jacket I have. Even if others haven't. So basically I'm trying to build a summer version of that.

In the end this might be the best advice. What I'll probably do is just get the suit and wait on the trousers, maybe sometimes wear some trousers I already have or try it out with some RTW trousers in the store and see if anything grabs me or gives me inspiration to have something else made up.

I'm not sure which I care more about: A) Whether people who don't know much about cloth praise a 6.5 oz to 7 oz cloth because it's made by Zegna or LP that are reputable names because they have a successful marketing team, or B) People, who read up extensively, and yet still choose reputable English fabrics that are 9.5 oz and above even though they're harder to procure, and the merchants and mills don't really bother to market themselves well. Even Zegna and LP are hardly used in Italy by most reputable tailors (am guessing). But, to each his own

Lightweight cloth are more difficult to get right to boot.

Italian tailors were better at tailoring lightweight cloths true, but that gap has narrowed ,now that more English customers request them from their tailors. A 7oz cloth requires a different approach than a 14oz.. Italian tailors were used to tailoring it, English tailors weren't. Skill requires exposure.

Most tailors, including Italians prefer to work with heavier, English cloths in my experience.

The point I want to stress is there are always people who prefer very light cloth and brand names, regardless to his needs and durability. Neither myself care about the above propositions. How is your cloth game going?

Can't agreed more.

Nvm.

I wear my lighter than Navy Tonik as a suit. Wearing the coat as an odd jacket works in the pinch but is not optimal. It doesn't look quite right as an odd jacket.

You're right that a segment of society will always choose brand names, lighter weight stuff etc.

They key as to whether their advice is worth heeding, in my opinion, is who these people disbursing advice are

I agree.

I don't see Mohair as odd jacket material.

This mohair below?

Pitti exposure is radioactive, ya know?