Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 357

Probably 10-20 pounds difference per meter depending whom you buy it from.

I presume we are comparing Crispaire to Frontier?

I have several suits made from Crispaire.These were made years ago when the book was known as Crispaire Fresco and contained a few Mohair and heavyweight Fresco suiting. Not sure what the new stuff is like even though my tailor has the current, or what looks the soon to be replaced current book.

I don't notice much difference between the Frontier and Crispaire in terms of performance in hot weather to be honest. Nice patterns and colours in both.

Fresco cloths are only really beneficial, heat wise if there is a breeze blowing. If not you are stuffed. Good wrinkle resistance though.

Its difficult to find wool suiting that do everything well in hot weather. There's always a compromise


Frontier is a plain weave cloth which is best for a summer.

Plain weaves tend to look best in pattered cloths not plains. Plains aren't really attractive.

My tailor thinks its good cloth, as far as plain weaves go. Makes up well. I have several of them. All stripes. I may try one of the POW's next summer.


Have all those Crispaire's made the final cut?

It's not bad cloth, but two tailors I've spoken to believe that if one is paying a few thousand pounds to have a suit made up, there are better alternatives. How do you like Frontier when it's made up, and over time? Is it 'limp' or is there a nice 'spring' in the cloth?

It performs well, shreds wrinkles

Bear in mind these are suits I wear only occasionally in the summer months. Never in Autumn/Winter. So the they don't receive a lot of hammer.

I see them as late Spring/Summer cloths and accept the compromise in terms of lux.

I was looking at the book in part because, in a thread at LL, Frank Shattuck had said very good things about it.

Maybe it's exceptional cloth, but based on my limited experience with two tailors, in my opinion, it's not superlative. It sheds wrinkles well for a cloth its weight, that is true, but tbh, I find the cloth looks limp. But that has just been my experience. Frank thinks Dugdale is very good cloth too, and he doesn't like H & S for the most part -- but it's up to you whom you choose to believe.

That said, I must stress that it's not bad cloth, but I think there are other fabrics that, IMHO, make up better. For instance, the 4-ply Smiths Finnmeresco I had made up, wears equally cool, and looks marvelous made up.

Have your tailor get you some samples.

Yes. Have you tailor send you samples, and ask him about his opinion on the fabric, and if that's what he'd recommend.

Shattuck blows with the wind.

I'd take anything he says with a pinch of salt.

I strongly dislike Frontier. Maybe I just got a bad length but it had a spongey stretchy quality to it that I found very unappealing, it didnt drape well as a result.

I see it now that I am not on my phone. It looks like the suiting fabric is 9.5 oz. Most seem to consider this a fall weight, at least for the Minnis Frescos.

That has been my (limited) experience. No body and poor drape, and limp stuff.

Minnis Rangoon:

Any lucky soul who has extra to spare?

Gents I have a large lot of Scabal Toison D'or at very keen pricing. PM for the stock list and to be added to the regular mailing list. (Dormeuil, Scabal, H&S etc)

One example (25m available at the moment)



Fabric : 751545
Dark Grey
Bunch : Toison d'or (C1981)
Composition : 100% Wool
Scabal
Weave : Hopsack
Design : Glen check
Weight : 260 G
Width : 150 CM
Wool specifics : SUPER 150'S
Fabric available
Weight category : medium (260-320gr)
Seasonality : Four Seasons
Cloth label : SCABAL SUPER 150'S
Selvedge : * SCABAL * SUPER 150'S