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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 357

post #5341 of 11154
Quote:
Originally Posted by TRINI View Post

Ed - what's the price difference b/ween the Crispaire and the Fresco?

Probably 10-20 pounds difference per meter depending whom you buy it from.
post #5342 of 11154
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Pink View Post



Do you think the two wear about the same--in terms of temperature?

I presume we are comparing Crispaire to Frontier?

I have several suits made from Crispaire.These were made years ago when the book was known as Crispaire Fresco and contained a few Mohair and heavyweight Fresco suiting. Not sure what the new stuff is like even though my tailor has the current, or what looks the soon to be replaced current book.

I don't notice much difference between the Frontier and Crispaire in terms of performance in hot weather to be honest. Nice patterns and colours in both.

Fresco cloths are only really beneficial, heat wise if there is a breeze blowing. If not you are stuffed. Good wrinkle resistance though.

Its difficult to find wool suiting that do everything well in hot weather. There's always a compromise

Quote:
Originally Posted by bboysdontcryy View Post

They wear fairly similarly in terms of coolness. You might want to take the following comments with a pinch of salt, but, I've spoken with two tailors and they think that the Frontier, whilst being fairly good cloth, is not exceptional, and they advised against having suits made up in Frontier, giving the reason as being 'If you're paying so much for bespoke, I think it'd make more sense to use a better cloth than the Frontier. One that looks more beautiful when made up'. Something to that effect.

Frontier is a plain weave cloth which is best for a summer.

Plain weaves tend to look best in pattered cloths not plains. Plains aren't really attractive.

My tailor thinks its good cloth, as far as plain weaves go. Makes up well. I have several of them. All stripes. I may try one of the POW's next summer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by msulinski View Post

Thanks for posting this
That blue you mentioned looks good. Do you know what the weight is? I am looking for something less than 9 oz

Have all those Crispaire's made the final cut?
post #5343 of 11154
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lovelace View Post

I presume we are comparing Crispaire to Frontier?

I have several suits made from Crispaire.These were made years ago when the book was known as Crispaire Fresco and contained a few Mohair and heavyweight Fresco suiting. Not sure what the new stuff is like even though my tailor has the current, or what looks the soon to be replaced current book.

I don't notice much difference between the Frontier and Crispaire in terms of performance in hot weather to be honest. Nice patterns and colours in both.

Fresco cloths are only really beneficial, heat wise if there is a breeze blowing. If not you are stuffed. Good wrinkle resistance though.

Its difficult to find wool suiting that do everything well in hot weather. There's always a compromise
Frontier is a plain weave cloth which is best for a summer.

Plain weaves tend to look best in pattered cloths not plains. Plains aren't really attractive.

My tailor thinks its good cloth, as far as plain weaves go. Makes up well. I have several of them. All stripes. I may try one of the POW's next summer.

It's not bad cloth, but two tailors I've spoken to believe that if one is paying a few thousand pounds to have a suit made up, there are better alternatives. How do you like Frontier when it's made up, and over time? Is it 'limp' or is there a nice 'spring' in the cloth?
post #5344 of 11154
Quote:
Originally Posted by bboysdontcryy View Post

It's not bad cloth, but my tailor believes that if one is paying a few thousand pounds to have a suit made up, there are better alternatives. How do you like Frontier when it's made up, and over time? Is it 'limp' or is there a nice 'spring' in the cloth?

It performs well, shreds wrinkles

Bear in mind these are suits I wear only occasionally in the summer months. Never in Autumn/Winter. So the they don't receive a lot of hammer.

I see them as late Spring/Summer cloths and accept the compromise in terms of lux.
post #5345 of 11154
Quote:
Originally Posted by bboysdontcryy View Post

It's not bad cloth, but two tailors I've spoken to believe that if one is paying a few thousand pounds to have a suit made up, there are better alternatives.

I was looking at the book in part because, in a thread at LL, Frank Shattuck had said very good things about it.
post #5346 of 11154
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Pink View Post

I was looking at the book in part because, in a thread at LL, Frank Shattuck had said very good things about it.

Maybe it's exceptional cloth, but based on my limited experience with two tailors, in my opinion, it's not superlative. It sheds wrinkles well for a cloth its weight, that is true, but tbh, I find the cloth looks limp. But that has just been my experience. Frank thinks Dugdale is very good cloth too, and he doesn't like H & S for the most part -- but it's up to you whom you choose to believe.

That said, I must stress that it's not bad cloth, but I think there are other fabrics that, IMHO, make up better. For instance, the 4-ply Smiths Finnmeresco I had made up, wears equally cool, and looks marvelous made up.
post #5347 of 11154
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Pink View Post

I was looking at the book in part because, in a thread at LL, Frank Shattuck had said very good things about it.

Have your tailor get you some samples.
post #5348 of 11154
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Pink View Post

I was looking at the book in part because, in a thread at LL, Frank Shattuck had said very good things about it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lovelace View Post

Have your tailor get you some samples.

Yes. Have you tailor send you samples, and ask him about his opinion on the fabric, and if that's what he'd recommend.
post #5349 of 11154
Quote:
Originally Posted by bboysdontcryy View Post

Maybe it's exceptional cloth, but based on my limited experience with two tailors, in my opinion, it's not superlative. It sheds wrinkles well for a cloth its weight, that is true, but tbh, I find the cloth looks limp. But that has just been my experience. Frank thinks Dugdale is very good cloth too, and he doesn't like H & S for the most part.

That said, I must stress that it's not bad cloth, but I think there are other fabrics that, IMHO, make up better. For instance, the 4-ply Smiths Finnmeresco I had made up, wears equally cool, and looks marvelous made up.

Shattuck blows with the wind.

I'd take anything he says with a pinch of salt.
post #5350 of 11154
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lovelace View Post

Shattuck blows with the wind.

I'd take anything he says with a pinch of salt.

smile.gif
post #5351 of 11154
I strongly dislike Frontier. Maybe I just got a bad length but it had a spongey stretchy quality to it that I found very unappealing, it didnt drape well as a result.
post #5352 of 11154
Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerC View Post

There's a sticker on the swatches indicating the weight.

I see it now that I am not on my phone. It looks like the suiting fabric is 9.5 oz. Most seem to consider this a fall weight, at least for the Minnis Frescos.

post #5353 of 11154
Quote:
Originally Posted by Axelman 17 View Post

I strongly dislike Frontier. Maybe I just got a bad length but it had a spongey stretchy quality to it that I found very unappealing, it didnt drape well as a result.

That has been my (limited) experience. No body and poor drape, and limp stuff.
post #5354 of 11154
Minnis Rangoon:

Any lucky soul who has extra to spare?
post #5355 of 11154
Gents I have a large lot of Scabal Toison D'or at very keen pricing. PM for the stock list and to be added to the regular mailing list. (Dormeuil, Scabal, H&S etc)

One example (25m available at the moment)



Fabric : 751545
Dark Grey
Bunch : Toison d'or (C1981)
Composition : 100% Wool
Scabal
Weave : Hopsack
Design : Glen check
Weight : 260 G
Width : 150 CM
Wool specifics : SUPER 150'S
Fabric available
Weight category : medium (260-320gr)
Seasonality : Four Seasons
Cloth label : SCABAL SUPER 150'S
Selvedge : * SCABAL * SUPER 150'S
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