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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 354

post #5296 of 12239
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

I will write about this more later in the context of some stuff I saw at Pitti, but an important consideration for a dinner suit is how much contrast you want between the facings and the rest of the jacket. Obviously a mohair has some sheen to it, so the lapels don't stand out as much. On the other hand, all of you is a little more shiny. A more matte fabric will highlight the facings more.

I wouldn't worry about formality too much in the context of a dinner suit. If you've got the facings and are wearing the black bow tie, people get it. Black tie is not meant to be a very restrictive dress code, and is meant to have a relaxing-with-friends air to it rather than a "formal" one IMHO.

IIRC you can get different silks for facings. Matte or Satin. I don't think there's a problem in that regard.

Again, Harrisons have a Mohair Barathea in their Evolution book. That's perfect DJ material.

Traditional Black Tie is by definition a restrictive dress code and formal. There is room for manoeuvre but not much as I said in another post.
post #5297 of 12239
Matte (maybe you mean grosgrain? it's a little more matte than satin but I wouldn't call it "matte") would be better with a more matte body fabric IMHO. Otherwise you reduce the contrast between the two fabrics too much, or even stranger, have the facings less shiny than the body.

I disagree with your characterization of black tie, but then you spell like a British person so you're probably fancier than me.
post #5298 of 12239
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

Matte (maybe you mean grosgrain? it's a little more matte than satin but I wouldn't call it "matte") would be better with a more matte body fabric IMHO. Otherwise you reduce the contrast between the two fabrics too much, or even stranger, have the facings less shiny than the body.

I disagree with your characterization of black tie, but then you spell like a British person so you're probably fancier than me.

Well I am British but I wouldn't say I was fancy. smile.gif

Again it been a long time since I looked at facings for a DJ, but I'm sure you can get matte and satin facings. Others with more recent experience can chip in. Weldons was the merchant IIRC.

Traditional Black Tie is formal. Increase in formality, decrease in choices. Dem da rulez!!!

Now creative black tie.
post #5299 of 12239
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley View Post

Robert Noble has something similar in a slightly lighter shade,

Many thanks ET.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantabrigian View Post

That's gazman, not maomao. I won't make the obvious joke.

Thought they were good friends anyways; what's the joke?
post #5300 of 12239
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

Second of Bogie is from Sabrina?

Looks like Bogie and Paul Henreid in that movie in Morocco...
post #5301 of 12239
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley View Post

Robert Noble has something similar in a slightly lighter shade,


Will they send swatches?

post #5302 of 12239
32 oz fabric? I'm sweating just thinking about it. You'll be wearing about 10 pounds of clothing when you add in the suit that you'll be wearing with it.
post #5303 of 12239
Quote:
Originally Posted by msulinski View Post

What about not at a discount? Is there a fabric store in NYC that carries this?

Mood has carried some in limited colors-two shades of blue- in the past. I've haven't been there in a while but when they had it was like $40/yard.
post #5304 of 12239
Quote:
Originally Posted by etkl View Post


Mood has carried some in limited colors-two shades of blue- in the past. I've haven't been there in a while but when they had it was like $40/yard.

Thanks, that price isn't too bad.

 

I would like to get a summer suit made, so I was looking at the 8-9oz range. Now I am wondering if this is too light and if I should consider 9-10.

post #5305 of 12239
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheTukker View Post

Many thanks ET.
Thought they were good friends anyways; what's the joke?



Something about well-dressed men all looking the same.
post #5306 of 12239
Quote:
Originally Posted by edmorel View Post

32 oz fabric? I'm sweating just thinking about it. You'll be wearing about 10 pounds of clothing when you add in the suit that you'll be wearing with it.

Seeing as I only wear a suit once every 2 weeks or so I'm not too worried.

And if on some days I am wearing 10 pounds of clothes then I won't feel guilty about not working out. Double win! :^)
post #5307 of 12239
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley

Robert Noble has something similar in a slightly lighter shade,

Many thanks ET.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantabrigian

That's gazman, not maomao. I won't make the obvious joke.

Thought they were good friends anyways; what's the joke?

i suspect it would be that old chestnut about people of the same background looking alike...
post #5308 of 12239
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slewfoot View Post

So I'll be getting an overcoat made for next Winter and am trying to collect fabric samples. I hope to get an HE Box 32oz cavalry twill sent my way soon and was also wondering about heavyweight tweed fabrics in herringbone. I'm thinking Navy Blue, but would also be open to seeing some Dark Brown and Dark Gray.

Any suggestions?

Harrisons I think has a brown herringbone in either 700 or 850g. I don't have the samples so you might have to contact them directly.
post #5309 of 12239
Picked these two vintage lengths up today for Summer suits. Maker is H Lesser and Sons. I'm pumped!

These kid mohair stuff do not have the Disco type shine to them. There's a very slight sheen, but are not 'shiny'.



post #5310 of 12239
Quote:
Originally Posted by bboysdontcryy View Post

Picked these two vintage lengths up today for Summer suits. Maker is H Lesser and Sons. I'm pumped!

These kid mohair stuff do not have the Disco type shine to them. There's a very slight sheen, but are not 'shiny'.




Textile King?
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