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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 353

post #5281 of 6562
2/12/13 at 1:34pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slewfoot View Post

So I'll be getting an overcoat made for next Winter and am trying to collect fabric samples. I hope to get an HE Box 32oz cavalry twill sent my way soon and was also wondering about heavyweight tweed fabrics in herringbone. I'm thinking Navy Blue, but would also be open to seeing some Dark Brown and Dark Gray.

Any suggestions?

How are you having it made up? Or is it all open ended at this point?
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post #5282 of 6562
2/12/13 at 1:35pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

How are you having it made up? Or is it all open ended at this point?

A knee length style pea coat with a belt in the back. Something along those lines.
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post #5283 of 6562
2/12/13 at 1:37pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

What's the general opinion of Dormeuil? I tracked down somebody in DC that has pretty much all their current books, and am going to take a look on Monday. It seems like they don't get talked about as much as other names here.

I've only ever used their Tonik cloth and that was a long time ago.

Imagine a more urbane Scabal and that's Dormeuil.

They sell good cloths, a lot of it is milled in England.

They are a good resource for unusual/fancy patterns that you won't find in the more conventional merchants like Minnis, Lessers etc.who specialise in business and traditional cloths.

They are expensive.
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post #5284 of 6562
2/12/13 at 1:59pm
The Dormeuil Tonik is really good stuff. That much is certain. Rich depth of colour, wrinkle-resistant, and based on my tailor's input, will make up well. But like Dopey said, it's luxe cloth, and expensive. But it's sufficiently different from the matte numbers you'll have from present Minnis, Lesser, and H & S offerings. I've perused the H & S mohair-wool fabrics and came away even happier with my purchase.

This cloth definitely does not exude the old-world vibe that you get with Lesser or Smiths, however.

Go check out the book and let us know your opinion. I skipped the lightweight stuff at the beginning of the book and jumped straight to the Tonik 2000 that are 10.5 oz. Tonik is 10.

Etkl has had much experience with it and had good things to say.
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post #5285 of 6562
2/12/13 at 2:03pm
The Sportex range also has a few nice pieces but last I saw, that range seems to have been discontinued.
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post #5286 of 6562
2/12/13 at 2:15pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by bboysdontcryy View Post

The Dormeuil Tonik is really good stuff. That much is certain. Rich depth of colour, wrinkle-resistant, and based on my tailor's input, will make up well. But like Dopey said, it's luxe cloth, and expensive. But it's sufficiently different from the matte numbers you'll have from present Minnis, Lesser, and H & S offerings. I've perused the H & S mohair-wool fabrics and came away even happier with my purchase.

This cloth definitely does not exude the old-world vibe that you get with Lesser or Smiths, however.

Go check out the book and let us know your opinion. I skipped the lightweight stuff at the beginning of the book and jumped straight to the Tonik 2000 that are 10.5 oz. Tonik is 10.

Etkl has had much experience with it and had good things to say.

10oz?

My Tonik was quite a bit heavier than that and was bullet proof.
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post #5287 of 6562
2/12/13 at 2:21pm
Yes. It's been modernised. It's lighter and smoother to boot. Less 'open weave' like the older stuff were as well. Do you think the original Tonik would have been formal enough for a dinner suit, given the weave?
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post #5288 of 6562
2/12/13 at 2:25pm
I hate that the options for good heavy fabric and decreasing. It seems like there is this overwhelming abundance of 9-10oz fabrics out there. Kinda wimpy.
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post #5289 of 6562
2/12/13 at 2:33pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by bboysdontcryy View Post

Yes. It's been modernised. It's lighter and smoother to boot. Less 'open weave' like the older stuff were as well. Do you think the original Tonik would have been formal enough for a dinner suit, given the weave?

I don't see why not.
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post #5290 of 6562
2/12/13 at 2:37pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by bboysdontcryy View Post

Yes. It's been modernised. It's lighter and smoother to boot. Less 'open weave' like the older stuff were as well. Do you think the original Tonik would have been formal enough for a dinner suit, given the weave?

I will write about this more later in the context of some stuff I saw at Pitti, but an important consideration for a dinner suit is how much contrast you want between the facings and the rest of the jacket. Obviously a mohair has some sheen to it, so the lapels don't stand out as much. On the other hand, all of you is a little more shiny. A more matte fabric will highlight the facings more.

I wouldn't worry about formality too much in the context of a dinner suit. If you've got the facings and are wearing the black bow tie, people get it. Black tie is not meant to be a very restrictive dress code, and is meant to have a relaxing-with-friends air to it rather than a "formal" one IMHO.
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post #5291 of 6562
2/12/13 at 2:41pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

I hate that the options for good heavy fabric and decreasing. It seems like there is this overwhelming abundance of 9-10oz fabrics out there. Kinda wimpy.

Well if you like heavier cloth you like it.

A lot of the lighter, modern cloth tailor as well, if not better than a lot of the heavier stuff of yesteryear. Better looms, more advanced finishing.

Lessers still do 16oz. The chalksripes in that book are great. Makes for a great old skool city of London look.

Dugdale still have 14oz cloths

Bateman & Ogden still have 140z cloths.

Harrisons have an18oz and above book called Universal, but some of those cloths have a poor hand.

So, it hasn't quite died out yet.
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post #5292 of 6562
2/12/13 at 2:42pm
You went to Pitti? What's the take on opera pumps over in the States?

I've been taken by these two DJ, particularly the shawl collar. Though I'm aware it might not be everybody's thing.

The first picture looks like it's probably mohair. Going to check out Smiths.



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post #5293 of 6562
2/12/13 at 2:44pm
Yea I'd guess that first one is mohair. Second of Bogie is from Sabrina?
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post #5294 of 6562
2/12/13 at 2:44pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slewfoot View Post

So I'll be getting an overcoat made for next Winter and am trying to collect fabric samples. I hope to get an HE Box 32oz cavalry twill sent my way soon and was also wondering about heavyweight tweed fabrics in herringbone. I'm thinking Navy Blue, but would also be open to seeing some Dark Brown and Dark Gray.

Any suggestions?

Dugdale's have a great broad grey herringbone. Perhaps a bit light for your taste, though.
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post #5295 of 6562
2/12/13 at 2:46pm
And yea I went to Pitti - I think articles are still up on the front page, but just search for Isaia and Begg and you'll see those. Also an interview with NsM. Just look in my 'threads started' page if you want to read them.

Regarding opera pumps, I love them, but I'm weird. I have two pairs of black belgians (one velvet, one patent) with grosgrain bows that I wear at night. I doubt you see them very often at black tie affairs. And would probably be remarked upon if worn. The 'State of Black Tie' thread will give you some data.
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