Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 343

Originally Posted by George 


I don't like the Cape Kid mohairs or mohairs of that ilk, too light and not crisp enough. The Mohairs I like are the 2 ply or 3 ply mohairs which are a different beast, a much crisper cloth. Usually 70% wool 30% Mohair. A word of caution, they do have a rough hand. Sources that I know of: Dormeuil Tonik is the most famous. Not woven any more, replaced by a cloth called Tonik 2000. Scabal have or had a cloth called Titan, which was a 3 ply. Similar hand to Tonik. H&S had a few Mohairs in the old Crispaire book these were 2 ply 70/30 mixes. Very nice cloths. Not sure they're in the new book though. Bateman & Ogden have a book full of them. If Mahon is making this for you, he'll have no problem sourcing then for you.

Originally Posted by Despos 

Both can have a bit of coarseness in the hand. Mohairs are blended with wool and a lot depends on the quality of the wool it is matched with. Some are very smooth, others less so. Mohair has a dressier finish and look and can have a natural luster to a high sheen. Fresco is more a matte finish. Fresco won't look as dressy as a mohair and mohair probably won't ever look as rustic (might be a better word for that but it escapes me at present) as fresco.

My favorite mohairs were fantastic shades of tan or pale green, sometimes with stripes, but I haven't seen those since the 80's. I keep a light weight navy mohair on hand for dressy summer occasions. One favorite of mine was the very darkest brown mohair, almost black, DB suit. It was great. The trouser split as mohair has been known to do. The fabric can crack when it gets dried out. Similar shade of the dark brown is available in Minis Fresco. Making two of them for clients now. One DB, one SB, both with triple patch pockets.

Originally Posted by dopey 


I haveone suit from the Lesslon book. It is not scratchy at all, though a bit stiffer than plain wool, with a nice, deep sheen. There was only one pattern I liked in the stock I saw available, but if you have access to a length in a pattern you like, grab it - it is a really spectacular cloth. Harrison's Cape Kid is feather light, with a nice, slick, polished sheen and some uneveness, like Dupioni silk (though much less). I recommend that highly for summer, though it is not inexpensive. I have one suit in Huntsman's Midnight Blue Hammick Mohair, which is a bit heavier weight and a barathea/hopsack weave. I get a lot of use out of it and liked it enough that I ordered another in the navy version. It also has a mohair sheen, but it is very slight and not nearly as slick looking.

Originally Posted by bboysdontcryy 

Which ... or none?

Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley 

It's very good, and by far their best light/midweight offering.

FWIW, not all the Dugdale stuff is top-notch (the lightweights and the new slicker books leave much to be desired). Super 100s, Mohair, and English Classics are their three best offerings, and are broadly comparable to stuff from the big names.

I've heard that their new Magdale tweeds are made by Johnstons - and, if so, I presume they are excellent as well. I have yet to examine the cloth for myself though.

Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley 

It's very good, and by far their best light/midweight offering.

FWIW, not all the Dugdale stuff is top-notch (the lightweights and the new slicker books leave much to be desired). Super 100s, Mohair, and English Classics are their three best offerings, and are broadly comparable to stuff from the big names.

I've heard that their new Magdale tweeds are made by Johnstons - and, if so, I presume they are excellent as well. I have yet to examine the cloth for myself though.

Originally Posted by bboysdontcryy 

Does anybody know how much Mohair Tonik (2000) run? I saw a couple of gorgeous shades of blue.