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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 343

post #5131 of 11739
Thread Starter 
why is every cloth merchant screwing everything up?????
post #5132 of 11739
What about the 3 ply mohair that supposedly was great but no longer exists?
Quote:
Originally Posted by George View Post


I don't like the Cape Kid mohairs or mohairs of that ilk, too light and not crisp enough. The Mohairs I like are the 2 ply or 3 ply mohairs which are a different beast, a much crisper cloth. Usually 70% wool 30% Mohair. A word of caution, they do have a rough hand. Sources that I know of: Dormeuil Tonik is the most famous. Not woven any more, replaced by a cloth called Tonik 2000. Scabal have or had a cloth called Titan, which was a 3 ply. Similar hand to Tonik. H&S had a few Mohairs in the old Crispaire book these were 2 ply 70/30 mixes. Very nice cloths. Not sure they're in the new book though. Bateman & Ogden have a book full of them. If Mahon is making this for you, he'll have no problem sourcing then for you.

One idea would be a dark brown mohair, the same shade as the dark brown Minnis fresco.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

Both can have a bit of coarseness in the hand. Mohairs are blended with wool and a lot depends on the quality of the wool it is matched with. Some are very smooth, others less so. Mohair has a dressier finish and look and can have a natural luster to a high sheen. Fresco is more a matte finish. Fresco won't look as dressy as a mohair and mohair probably won't ever look as rustic (might be a better word for that but it escapes me at present) as fresco.

My favorite mohairs were fantastic shades of tan or pale green, sometimes with stripes, but I haven't seen those since the 80's. I keep a light weight navy mohair on hand for dressy summer occasions. One favorite of mine was the very darkest brown mohair, almost black, DB suit. It was great. The trouser split as mohair has been known to do. The fabric can crack when it gets dried out. Similar shade of the dark brown is available in Minis Fresco. Making two of them for clients now. One DB, one SB, both with triple patch pockets.

Would Minnis be willing to make it? Or would Harrisons be willing to duplicate the Lesslon?

Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post


I haveone suit from the Lesslon book. It is not scratchy at all, though a bit stiffer than plain wool, with a nice, deep sheen. There was only one pattern I liked in the stock I saw available, but if you have access to a length in a pattern you like, grab it - it is a really spectacular cloth. Harrison's Cape Kid is feather light, with a nice, slick, polished sheen and some uneveness, like Dupioni silk (though much less). I recommend that highly for summer, though it is not inexpensive. I have one suit in Huntsman's Midnight Blue Hammick Mohair, which is a bit heavier weight and a barathea/hopsack weave. I get a lot of use out of it and liked it enough that I ordered another in the navy version. It also has a mohair sheen, but it is very slight and not nearly as slick looking.
post #5133 of 11739
Quote:
Originally Posted by bboysdontcryy View Post

Which ... or none?

I had a W. Bill handwoven donegal in blue made up (similar to the second one) and wasn't into it. The color was much more blue/gray than the swatch and it was pretty scratchy. I ended up giving it to my dad and now have the LL blue donegal herringbone. For W. Bill blue donegals I really like the one Vox had made up which is 34582 I believe. Has a spongy quality to it that I like.
post #5134 of 11739
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley View Post

It's very good, and by far their best light/midweight offering.

FWIW, not all the Dugdale stuff is top-notch (the lightweights and the new slicker books leave much to be desired). Super 100s, Mohair, and English Classics are their three best offerings, and are broadly comparable to stuff from the big names.

I've heard that their new Magdale tweeds are made by Johnstons - and, if so, I presume they are excellent as well. I have yet to examine the cloth for myself though.

Is that the suiting S100 book or the new jacketing S100 book?
post #5135 of 11739
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley View Post

It's very good, and by far their best light/midweight offering.

FWIW, not all the Dugdale stuff is top-notch (the lightweights and the new slicker books leave much to be desired). Super 100s, Mohair, and English Classics are their three best offerings, and are broadly comparable to stuff from the big names.

I've heard that their new Magdale tweeds are made by Johnstons - and, if so, I presume they are excellent as well. I have yet to examine the cloth for myself though.

From my experience, their royal classic are also very good, slightly lighter than their 'wooly' English and Town Classic, true 3 season fabric.
Both line has great depth of colours, especially their chalkstripes.
post #5136 of 11739
I'm looking for a navy or dark blue linen for a summer suit, any suggestions and sources? I've not ordered a length of fabric previously, so I'd appreciate as much detail as possible - thanks!
post #5137 of 11739
Dugdale has good linen. Online shop: http://www.huddersfieldcloth.com
post #5138 of 11739
I have a suit's length of 17 oz. charcoal herringbone tweed from them that I'm going to make up for next winter.
post #5139 of 11739
Quote:
Originally Posted by bboysdontcryy View Post

Does anybody know how much Mohair Tonik (2000) run? I saw a couple of gorgeous shades of blue.

I have a length of original Tonik in medium navy available. PM me if interested.
post #5140 of 11739
Late -- I pulled the trigger on the cloth at 80-ish GBP/M.

Still, put pictures up and you might get some interest.
post #5141 of 11739
Thanks I'll try and get some pictures together. I have 25 or so lengths of various Dormeuil at heavily discounted prices rapidly disappearing.
post #5142 of 11739
Would you have some more information on that?
post #5143 of 11739
X post from the Tweed Appreciation thread London Lounge Cloth club . Trying decide which ones to fund for up coming winter.

[URL=http:// Untitled by banjo888, on Flickr][/URL]
post #5144 of 11739
^ now that is awesome!
post #5145 of 11739
Thanks David but you are way ahead of me smile.gif
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