Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 333

I don't know where to post this, but I promise it's a very interesting read --

http://www.foxflannel.com/userfiles/mail_on_sunday_article.pdf

That was a nice read, thanks for the contribution

There are diminishing and even reduced returns if you go better than that. I've found that the very finest of cotton (i.e., much more expensive than 120s) can be unpleasant in the summer-- it often retains humidity at all the wrong times. But sniffing around for good linen/cotton blends is well worth the effort.

PSA - I was at mr. Fields in Georgetown yesterday and saw a length of the london lounge lltw12. Apparently a customer brought it in and decided against making it up.

They could have sold it on the LL instead-- it's only just been re-issued and that was after a few years of lobbying.

I don't know what seller's strategy was or if it's the right one. I'm just saying, I saw it there, so presumably it can be bought by someone who wants it. Or if you're in DC and just want to see it, call up Mr. Field.

You should pm forex he has been after this cloth for a very long time.

Fyi, Bonfanti's Capri range is a 120's poplin and sells for 21 euros/meter. Its Bristol range is 80'sx120's poplin and sells for 19 euros/mete. Both are woven on a 90 cms. loom. I like the Capri a lot. I also like the Bristol but you have to account for more shrinkage.

For G&R I think the Cam 2000 (2x2 120's) has the optimal body, cost and softness combo for me. I have 1 G&R 200s and it wrinkles too easily for my taste and more expensive than I prefer but it does feel really nice.

What about Alumo? I'm really happy with the voile used for my dinner shirt.

My next batch of shirts will probably be from Geneva in NYC. I'm glad they use Alumo as a default.

To repeat: never Riva again. In fact, never any single-ply Italian again. One has to wonder to what extent to perceived softness is merely the result of the single-ply construction? Maybe others can afford for shirts to be so disposable, but I can't suffer it. Mine were all home laundered in lingerie bags and hand-ironed, by the way.

Alumo and Bonfanti are my go-to fabrics. In particular, I like the Alumo 3-ply, although it is offered in a limited range of colors and last I looked, in no patterns. I also like D & J Anderson sea island very much. I'm surprised to hear that Riva is single ply. Are you sure? As far as I know, Bonfanti's fabrics are all 2-ply.

why geneva and not carl of cego?

photos of the dinner shirt?

I think badsha and I were the first SF members to use G&R, and I've ordered nothing but for the past 3 years. Their Cam 2000 (120s) and Luna (Batiste) are spectacular, and less than half the price of Bonfanti (approx. a quarter of Riva). Highly recommended.

 

To ThinkDerm's question, I tried both Geneva and CEGO, and Geneva was much better in my opinion. I think Foo has made the right call here.

 

Alumo is very good. If I wasn't wedded to G&R, I would use their 120s as my default.

I'm not actually sure, now that you ask. I just remember one of the board's resident shirtmakers or tailors mentioning it was single-ply, but I could easily be wrong. I guess I could look for loose threads and see if I can tell . . .

Let's put it this way: my experience with the stuff makes it easy for me to believe.

You've seen the shirt if you've seen the photos of me at whnay.'s wedding.

Well, CEGO does MTM right? I was under the impression he does not do full bespoke. Also, I liked the work I've seen Geneva do.

My Geneva shirt doesn't have the artful fit of my Matuozzo stuff, nor any hand-stitching whatsoever, but the fit is nonetheless pretty darn good. Nothing technically wrong as far as I can see. And the price is infinitely friendlier.

A key point: they do the collar just the way I like it. Everything else is only marginally important in comparison.