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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 332

post #4966 of 10779
Quote:
Originally Posted by bboysdontcryy View Post

I paid 55 euros/m for Riva fabrics when I was in Naples. That's not exceptionally expensive, but I think they marked up the prices on me. I'm a little surprised by Matt's comment about how they don't last though. All that cachet to naught?
Quote:
Originally Posted by P-K-L View Post

I paid €100 for 3 meters - on sale however.

Where are you guys buying the Riva?
post #4967 of 10779
Expensive does not equal durable. Compare to cars: a Formula 1 car costs millions, and essentially needs to be fully rebuilt after a couple of races, whereas a Toyota truck will cost significantly less money, and will survive anything bar a nuclear assault. The F1 car maximizes certain properties (speed) at the expense of others (durability, loading space, price).

It seems to me this is the same for luxury fabrics. In the drive to create higher super numbers and thread counts, durability is very often lost. When you are sufficiently wealthy, that's not a problem, you order 50 shirts in one go. When you're an upper middle class StyleForum baller who also has a mortgage, student debt and child care to take care of, things are a bit different.

Personally, I try to go for the Skoda deal: what will look good, be reasonably priced (but not necessarily cheap) and get the job done without me having to fuss too much. In fabrics, that means that I gravitate towards anything that is not marketed as a super for suitings/jacketings, and 100/2 thread count or lower in shirts.
post #4968 of 10779
Quote:
Originally Posted by etkl View Post

The on-line price of Bonfanti's linen/cotton,made on a 90 cm loom, is 29 euros.
Now THAT's a potentially remarkable find. I didn't know he'd entered the 21st century as far as selling goes. It seems that he'll even send you a complete book of swatches for 150 Euros--- not a bad R&D expense if you're having a large wardrobe CMT'd.
post #4969 of 10779
Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerC View Post

Expensive does not equal durable. Compare to cars: a Formula 1 car costs millions, and essentially needs to be fully rebuilt after a couple of races, whereas a Toyota truck will cost significantly less money, and will survive anything bar a nuclear assault. The F1 car maximizes certain properties (speed) at the expense of others (durability, loading space, price).

It seems to me this is the same for luxury fabrics. In the drive to create higher super numbers and thread counts, durability is very often lost. When you are sufficiently wealthy, that's not a problem, you order 50 shirts in one go. When you're an upper middle class StyleForum baller who also has a mortgage, student debt and child care to take care of, things are a bit different.

Personally, I try to go for the Skoda deal: what will look good, be reasonably priced (but not necessarily cheap) and get the job done without me having to fuss too much. In fabrics, that means that I gravitate towards anything that is not marketed as a super for suitings/jacketings, and 100/2 thread count or lower in shirts.

Nice analogy. Well, we shall see how long my Riva shirts hold up. Or back to the usual names for me. Should have tried a couple instead of ordering 6 in one fell swoop.
post #4970 of 10779
Quote:
Originally Posted by bboysdontcryy View Post

Nice analogy. Well, we shall see how long my Riva shirts hold up. Or back to the usual names for me. Should have tried a couple instead of ordering 6 in one fell swoop.

Fwiw, my Riva shirts have held up ok. Though admittedly I have a fairly large rotation.
post #4971 of 10779
By the way, I just saw that Dugdale has come up with a new high twist bunch, with some great suitings. Not CBD, but very, very nice as an informal/FU suit.
post #4972 of 10779
^ Saw these - pretty tacky imo.
post #4973 of 10779
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerrybrowne View Post


Where are you guys buying the Riva?

At P. Buonanno in Naples.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerC View Post

By the way, I just saw that Dugdale has come up with a new high twist bunch, with some great suitings. Not CBD, but very, very nice as an informal/FU suit.

On a related note, did anybody already have a look at their shirting?
post #4974 of 10779
@GC I agree that a number among them are not quite winners, but colour in suiting is a very British thing and I'm happy to see it return.

Dugdale's shrtings look great design wise but expensive compared with Acorn.
post #4975 of 10779
Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerC View Post

Dugdale's shrtings look great design wise but expensive compared with Acorn.

Yup, pricey - partiularly for Dugdales.
post #4976 of 10779
No one asked, but I am really happy using pretty basic shirting - the Acorn 80s are fine with me. I have some Riva shirts and some other very high count shirts, and they do feel nicer, but not in a way that makes me care. Once I tried a few, a lost interest except for a black tie shirt, which I had made using a Riva polin. About the only time I look at the higher count shirtings now is when I am looking for a particular pattern or weave.
post #4977 of 10779
^ Generally a +1 to the above, but the G&Rs are very well priced for some of the higher-count stuff.
post #4978 of 10779
Quote:
Originally Posted by Concordia View Post

Now THAT's a potentially remarkable find. I didn't know he'd entered the 21st century as far as selling goes. It seems that he'll even send you a complete book of swatches for 150 Euros--- not a bad R&D expense if you're having a large wardrobe CMT'd.

+1

While I'm unlikely to pay half a shirt for a swatch book, I'm definitely going to order a couple lengths.
post #4979 of 10779
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

No one asked, but I am really happy using pretty basic shirting - the Acorn 80s are fine with me. I have some Riva shirts and some other very high count shirts, and they do feel nicer, but not in a way that makes me care. Once I tried a few, a lost interest except for a black tie shirt, which I had made using a Riva polin. About the only time I look at the higher count shirtings now is when I am looking for a particular pattern or weave.

Have to agree. I have a few high-end Alumnos, and an S&G chambray. I like the S&G chambray more than the Alumnos, but for the most part, find Acorn to be fine. The finer shirtings that I come across in swatch books feel nice to the touch, but I don't know if I care enough to pay the premium.

Maybe I'll check out G&R on Cleric's advice.
post #4980 of 10779
I was all Thomas Mason Silverline all the time for years. And I imagine that's roughly equivalent to Acorn 80s.

But trying the Alumo 120s was a revelation. Wrinkles a lot less during the day - especially right around the waistband. And a lot easier to iron, since I'm a plebe and do that myself.
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