QUESTION: do any of you know the guy who runs Bookster (tweed-jacket.com) by any chance (his name is Peter)?
last year they used to sell a brown/olive tweed called Taransay that was stunning. I ordered enough for a vest just to guage what it looked like before commiting to a larger order, was floored by what I received. When I went to order 10 metres more for a suit and a coat, it was sold out. I emailed the owner who told me that he couldn't promise that doing another run of it was possible because it might vary from the original 'recipe' and he didn't want to take the risk that I would buy an entire run and not be happy if it was different than what I had received in the previous run.
they sent me the swatch for the Dusk and it's very different...more of a greyish ashy color in person, not the brown/olive/rust of the Taransay
believe me when I tell you, the Taransay is special
I'll try to take a picture of the vest I had made with it in the light tomorrow and post it
the best comparison is to put it side-by-side with a normal brown herringbone that uses only 2 yarns in the weave (standard today) versus the 4-5 yarns in the Taransay
From what you describe this W. Bill Shetland seems similar which I had made up a few years ago as a sportcoat / vest combo. It has a handful of different colors to create the effect of a dark brown, but I don't think there is actually any brown in it. A fun and unique fabric that is very comfortable and wears on the warm side.