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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 321

post #4801 of 12540
Quote:
Originally Posted by bboysdontcryy View Post


Wait, do you get your tailor to make the polo shirt material up into a polo-shirt? That question sounds stupid, but I never explored the possibility of getting anything other than coats, trousers and shirts made up at the tailor. Didn't see a need to bespeak polo-shirts.

 

I wrote a reply but it seemed long-winded and off-topic for this thread so I'll PM you. Short answer: if RTW casual clothing fits you, consider yourself lucky and enjoy!

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shirtmaven View Post
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


Rubinelli also has a cotton-linen pique knit.
I did not like the feel of it. nor the look.

most shirtmakers don't have the knit available. it is not in the in-stock book.
I bought inventory. Some of the styles can be ordered in short quantities. . if it is not in stock. 30 or 50 meter minimum
I believe the knit weaving is outsourced, as the machinery is different..
also there is no ribbed trim to match. so it has to have a traditional woven shirt collar of some sort.
it could be a PJ/camp collar. we have also made an inset Italian style collar .
I have not made any knit shirts with such an exaggerated stiff collar as the one in the photo.
but I see no problem doing so.

My girlfirend is a textile agent. I think one of her Japanese mills has knits.
not sure if those are in stock. if not the minimums to weave are much higher.

This Japanese mill, is the source for many of the work shirt chambray and denim that is used by many of the
american looks of the young designers, including Hamilton shirt.
and yes, the chambray is very nice.

 

 

Super useful. Will stop in in the future.

post #4802 of 12540
Just thought I'd post rare pics of what has now become a 'funded' liability. LL City Gunclub from the previous years' round of subscriptions, made-up as a 1-button hacking jacket from my new guy Adrian Barrows. Classically English cut; structured roped shoulders, wasp-waisted, clean chest and back...

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post #4803 of 12540
Question: would anyone know a good source for cotton drill trousering in a good range of colours?
post #4804 of 12540
Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerC View Post

Question: would anyone know a good source for cotton drill trousering in a good range of colours?

Gladson/HMS has a range of colors.
post #4805 of 12540
Thread Starter 
Also Drapers.
post #4806 of 12540
Quote:
Originally Posted by academe View Post

Just thought I'd post rare pics of what has now become a 'funded' liability. LL City Gunclub from the previous years' round of subscriptions, made-up as a 1-button hacking jacket from my new guy Adrian Barrows. Classically English cut; structured roped shoulders, wasp-waisted, clean chest and back...

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Are there any glunclubs similar to this one? Any recommendations would be appreciated, I think I've seen one similar to this from H.Lesser but do not know how to locate it.
post #4807 of 12540
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley View Post

Would anyone know the source of this tweed?



Nice, were you able to find out the source? Wouldn't mind getting a length.
post #4808 of 12540

^ Nope, not yet. Shot an email to Ethan via his tumblr, but no reply yet.

post #4809 of 12540
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley View Post

^ Nope, not yet. Shot an email to Ethan via his tumblr, but no reply yet.

I highly doubt he'd check his tumblr. Might find it easier to reach him via ethannewton@thearmoury.com
Edited by bboysdontcryy - 1/12/13 at 1:15pm
post #4810 of 12540
I was in HK earlier this week. Everyone but Jake was in Italy. Probably not checking emails.
post #4811 of 12540
Quote:
Originally Posted by Axelman 17 View Post

Trying to decide on my next suit from Frank. Have five thus far:

- grey woolen flannel 14oz (harrisons)
- mid grey fresco 10/11oz (minnis)
- navy birdseye 11/12oz (harrisons premier cru)
- RAF plain blue 9/10oz (lesser)
- navy herringbone 13oz (lesser)

I am thinking about doing a blue linen and a khaki cotton suit for the summer but would like to get in one more before then. Probably something sub 11oz that is more office appropriate than the linen and the khaki cotton. Any thoughts? Was flirting with a POW maybe from minnis fresco or lesser tropical. How is the lesser tropical book? Any others worth thumbing through?

photos of these made up please. thanks!
post #4812 of 12540
Dear cloth connoisseurs,

Two days ago I was confronted with a cloth choice for the first time. Although I spent many hours reading and researching, the real thing turned out to be much harder than expected.
I ended up buying a 320g hopsack and 320g 120s wool cashmere mix, both from british mills. The hopsack was Drapers for Eurotex and the mix from another mill (started with H, but was not Harrisons, rather Hutchfield or something like that). Is my choice too heavy in weight? I would like my suits to be at least 3 seasons, autumn, winter, spring. The temperature here is 20C late summer, 0C in winter and a very mild spring.
There were many lighter cloths available, but I found them to be too shiny and too smooth for my taste. Unfortunately the lack of experience made me forget to write down the exact specs or to take macro pictures. All I have is a picture of the hopsack.

What do you think? Shall I change to a lighter cloth for my first two bespoke suits?

Many many thanks!!!

AppleMark
post #4813 of 12540

^ You chose well. I wouldn't go any lighter.

 

In the real world, there really is no such thing as a 'three-season' cloth.

 

Hutchfield = Huddersfield?

post #4814 of 12540
Many thanks for your answer. The three seasons goal was rather to make sure to get a versatile suit out of my first bespoke experience.
It's not Huddersfield, it could easily be anything else, I have no clue anymore. I'm really stupid for not writing down the names and taking better pictures. Next time...
Maybe my tailor can provide me the details.
post #4815 of 12540

I've found 10-11oz. to be the most versatile weight, so I think you're fine there. In NYC, I can wear a suit of that weight a good 6-7 months of the year.

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