Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 319

Unfortunately for Manton, the five that I listed have already been made, there is no turning back on the birdseye, I think it came out pretty nicely.

I guess I am looking for a suit that is slightly more versatile than the linen and cotton numbers. I am not sure I would feel comfortable wearing either of those in the spring for instance. Perhaps I am overthinking it though.

Pick-and-pick may be a good route. I feel like if I go POW, I dont want it to be too dark or it wont be sufficiently spring/summer-y.

A lighter fresco - something like a striped 8/9 oz
Or something from Harrison's Cape Kid - light and a little spring/summery but completely fine for most office uses, even in conservative ones.

 

Oh, gotcha - didn't realize you were looking for spring / summer fabrics in particular. I'm a fan of Mohair - the better ones available are not scratchy / shiny, and look quite nice. Mohair works well in mid / AF blues and light browns.

 

The Lesser Super Tropical is a good book, but I would suggest ordering something half-lined from the Smith Excel collection (9-10oz.).

Extremely helpful, thank you. Will peruse the options and share some possibilities.

Personally, I think POW is best as a flannel rather than as a worsted.

What's wrong with birdeye? You seem to like nailhead.

 

 

It seems I am not the only one thinking about a source for polo shirt material.

 

Does anyone have a source for a jersey knit cloth in a cotton/linen blend? Piqué is nice, but the former is so breathable and light.

Carl, anyone?

 

Thanks.

The Lesser Tropical book is very,very good. I have two suits in it, which are my favourite. Now, I don't know how conservative your office is, but there's an RAF houndstooth and a caramel PoW in there that I like a lot.

Wait, do you get your tailor to make the polo shirt material up into a polo-shirt? That question sounds stupid, but I never explored the possibility of getting anything other than coats, trousers and shirts made up at the tailor. Didn't see a need to bespeak polo-shirts.

Another vote for mohair. It would work well because you look exactly like a mohair goat anyway.

Precisely. Any mohair books that folks like? I want to make sure Frank has them in Manhattan.

I'm not sure exactly, but some I have seen were nice. The Tonik from Dormeuil is amazing looking, but I have no personal experience with it.

 

Drapers mohair and the Harrisons Cape Kid and Firefly are my favourites.

Rubinelli also has a cotton-linen pique knit.
I did not like the feel of it. nor the look.

most shirtmakers don't have the knit available. it is not in the in-stock book.
I bought inventory. Some of the styles can be ordered in short quantities. . if it is not in stock. 30 or 50 meter minimum
I believe the knit weaving is outsourced, as the machinery is different..
also there is no ribbed trim to match. so it has to have a traditional woven shirt collar of some sort.
it could be a PJ/camp collar. we have also made an inset Italian style collar .
I have not made any knit shirts with such an exaggerated stiff collar as the one in the photo.
but I see no problem doing so.

My girlfirend is a textile agent. I think one of her Japanese mills has knits.
not sure if those are in stock. if not the minimums to weave are much higher.

This Japanese mill, is the source for many of the work shirt chambray and denim that is used by many of the
american looks of the young designers, including Hamilton shirt.
and yes, the chambray is very nice.

I made myself a suit from Tonik in the early 80s.
It was easily the most uncomfortable suit I have ever worn.
the pants were only front lined.
did it keep a crease? yes
the damn suit was bulletproof.

How does that look? It sounds kind of musical theatre to me.

I second the Cape Kid recommendation, though be aware that it is 1) pricey and 2) extra mohair shiny.