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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 319

post #4771 of 11430
Unfortunately for Manton, the five that I listed have already been made, there is no turning back on the birdseye, I think it came out pretty nicely. icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif

I guess I am looking for a suit that is slightly more versatile than the linen and cotton numbers. I am not sure I would feel comfortable wearing either of those in the spring for instance. Perhaps I am overthinking it though.

Pick-and-pick may be a good route. I feel like if I go POW, I dont want it to be too dark or it wont be sufficiently spring/summer-y.
post #4772 of 11430
A lighter fresco - something like a striped 8/9 oz
Or something from Harrison's Cape Kid - light and a little spring/summery but completely fine for most office uses, even in conservative ones.
post #4773 of 11430
Quote:
Originally Posted by Axelman 17 View Post

Unfortunately for Manton, the five that I listed have already been made, there is no turning back on the birdseye, I think it came out pretty nicely. icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif

I guess I am looking for a suit that is slightly more versatile than the linen and cotton numbers. I am not sure I would feel comfortable wearing either of those in the spring for instance. Perhaps I am overthinking it though.

Pick-and-pick may be a good route. I feel like if I go POW, I dont want it to be too dark or it wont be sufficiently spring/summer-y.

 

Oh, gotcha - didn't realize you were looking for spring / summer fabrics in particular. I'm a fan of Mohair - the better ones available are not scratchy / shiny, and look quite nice. Mohair works well in mid / AF blues and light browns.

 

The Lesser Super Tropical is a good book, but I would suggest ordering something half-lined from the Smith Excel collection (9-10oz.).

post #4774 of 11430
Extremely helpful, thank you. Will peruse the options and share some possibilities.
post #4775 of 11430
Quote:
Originally Posted by Axelman 17 View Post

Trying to decide on my next suit from Frank. Have five thus far:

- grey woolen flannel 14oz (harrisons)
- mid grey fresco 10/11oz (minnis)
- navy birdseye 11/12oz (harrisons premier cru)
- RAF plain blue 9/10oz (lesser)
- navy herringbone 13oz (lesser)

I am thinking about doing a blue linen and a khaki cotton suit for the summer but would like to get in one more before then. Probably something sub 11oz that is more office appropriate than the linen and the khaki cotton. Any thoughts? Was flirting with a POW maybe from minnis fresco or lesser tropical. How is the lesser tropical book? Any others worth thumbing through?

Personally, I think POW is best as a flannel rather than as a worsted.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

Since I don't like birdseye, don't get the birdseye.

Personally, I wear cotton and linen to the office in summer.

What's wrong with birdeye? You seem to like nailhead.
post #4776 of 11430
Quote:
Originally Posted by P. Bateman View Post

Hello,

Does anyone know where I can source pique cotton fabric, preferably in heather colors? For example:

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shirtmaven View Post


I have this from Grandi & Rubinelli
in a purple, like the one shown.
grey
navy
burgundy.
very nice fabric.

 

It seems I am not the only one thinking about a source for polo shirt material.

 

Does anyone have a source for a jersey knit cloth in a cotton/linen blend? Piqué is nice, but the former is so breathable and light.

Carl, anyone?

 

Thanks.

post #4777 of 11430
Quote:
Originally Posted by Axelman 17 View Post

Extremely helpful, thank you. Will peruse the options and share some possibilities.

The Lesser Tropical book is very,very good. I have two suits in it, which are my favourite. Now, I don't know how conservative your office is, but there's an RAF houndstooth and a caramel PoW in there that I like a lot.
post #4778 of 11430
Quote:
Originally Posted by sprout2 View Post


It seems I am not the only one thinking about a source for polo shirt material.

Does anyone have a source for a jersey knit cloth in a cotton/linen blend? Piqué is nice, but the former is so breathable and light.
Carl, anyone?

Thanks.

Wait, do you get your tailor to make the polo shirt material up into a polo-shirt? That question sounds stupid, but I never explored the possibility of getting anything other than coats, trousers and shirts made up at the tailor. Didn't see a need to bespeak polo-shirts.
post #4779 of 11430
Another vote for mohair. It would work well because you look exactly like a mohair goat anyway.
post #4780 of 11430
Precisely. Any mohair books that folks like? I want to make sure Frank has them in Manhattan.
post #4781 of 11430
I'm not sure exactly, but some I have seen were nice. The Tonik from Dormeuil is amazing looking, but I have no personal experience with it.
post #4782 of 11430
Quote:
Originally Posted by Axelman 17 View Post

Precisely. Any mohair books that folks like? I want to make sure Frank has them in Manhattan.

 

Drapers mohair and the Harrisons Cape Kid and Firefly are my favourites.

post #4783 of 11430
Rubinelli also has a cotton-linen pique knit.
I did not like the feel of it. nor the look.

most shirtmakers don't have the knit available. it is not in the in-stock book.
I bought inventory. Some of the styles can be ordered in short quantities. . if it is not in stock. 30 or 50 meter minimum
I believe the knit weaving is outsourced, as the machinery is different..
also there is no ribbed trim to match. so it has to have a traditional woven shirt collar of some sort.
it could be a PJ/camp collar. we have also made an inset Italian style collar .
I have not made any knit shirts with such an exaggerated stiff collar as the one in the photo.
but I see no problem doing so.

My girlfirend is a textile agent. I think one of her Japanese mills has knits.
not sure if those are in stock. if not the minimums to weave are much higher.

This Japanese mill, is the source for many of the work shirt chambray and denim that is used by many of the
american looks of the young designers, including Hamilton shirt.
and yes, the chambray is very nice.
post #4784 of 11430
I made myself a suit from Tonik in the early 80s.
It was easily the most uncomfortable suit I have ever worn.
the pants were only front lined.
did it keep a crease? yes
the damn suit was bulletproof.
post #4785 of 11430
Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerC View Post

The Lesser Tropical book is very,very good. I have two suits in it, which are my favourite. Now, I don't know how conservative your office is, but there's an RAF houndstooth and a caramel PoW in there that I like a lot.
How does that look? It sounds kind of musical theatre to me.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Axelman 17 View Post

Precisely. Any mohair books that folks like? I want to make sure Frank has them in Manhattan.

Quote:
Originally Posted by terrorsquad View Post

Drapers mohair and the Harrisons Cape Kid and Firefly are my favourites.
I second the Cape Kid recommendation, though be aware that it is 1) pricey and 2) extra mohair shiny.
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